Welcome to the IHoP v.2

[Stephen93s10 40]

Ok, thanks i will check tomorrow morning before work and get back to you.

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

About the only other REALLY simple thing to do is go drive it like you stole it. That particular sensor is most responsive at or near WOT. This is bc the sensor collects data continuously at or near WOT.

Also check there is nothing obstructing the air intake. Also look under the car and make sure the exhaust isn't pinched or restricted. See if you can find the o2 sensor on the exhaust and see if it's hooked up. All other things that will cause a MAF code.

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

Hell, check there isn't something stuck to the sensor inside the intake.

[Stephen93s10 40]

Whats WOT?

[Stephen93s10 40]

Just googled it Wide Open Throttle lol

[Godsmack 360]

Vaccum leak is my idea.

J

[mikel7829 90]

I think today is going to be a good day 

[Tirefryr 1,742]

So, my truck died twice last month and a brought into a repair shop, 1st time they said.it was the anti theft wire that was corroded and fixed it, second time it died the same way and would not start up again, they told me this time it was a plate on the distributor that was spinning that wasnt suppose to move. Long story short i dont know any good mechanic shops around and after putting 500$ in my truck last month and having it die and not start up the same exact way, i no dont trust them either, in fact when got my truck back they left a vacuum line off.

The problem im having now is when the A/C is on and the truck comes to a stop it feels like its going to die, also im not certain but it feels like my 1998 chevy s10 doesnt have as much power with the A/C on like it did before... I dont know a lot about automotive but I am thinking it might be a vacuum leak, or hose thats off... any ideas? Thanks

I am guessing something to do with the a/c compressor clutch. If shutting off the a/c solves the problem, you should be close to a diagnosis. When was your last tune up? How many miles on the motor/truck (if different)?

Truck has 131000 on it, changed the spark plugs, wires, and oil around 2K miles ago, mechanic shop put a new distributor on... soon i will have the transmission oil changed as well as the fuel filter, also gonna clean the mass airflow sensor

Your timing is off. Distributor was changed and it loses power under heavy load. You need to advance timing. They probably set everything straight up and left it.

[///M5 2,833]

That'd be retarded but possible

[nem 2,019]

Piper Cherokee is another good one, IF you don't mind a low wing.

 

I live where Piper started. Lots of time spent watching Piper air planes fly and a couple of friends own Cubs and one owns a Mikoyan Mig-AT which is for-sale currently.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

What is the year, make, model, and engine in truck?

[nem 2,019]

 

 

 

 

So, my truck died twice last month and a brought into a repair shop, 1st time they said.it was the anti theft wire that was corroded and fixed it, second time it died the same way and would not start up again, they told me this time it was a plate on the distributor that was spinning that wasnt suppose to move. Long story short i dont know any good mechanic shops around and after putting 500$ in my truck last month and having it die and not start up the same exact way, i no dont trust them either, in fact when got my truck back they left a vacuum line off.

The problem im having now is when the A/C is on and the truck comes to a stop it feels like its going to die, also im not certain but it feels like my 1998 chevy s10 doesnt have as much power with the A/C on like it did before... I dont know a lot about automotive but I am thinking it might be a vacuum leak, or hose thats off... any ideas? Thanks

I am guessing something to do with the a/c compressor clutch. If shutting off the a/c solves the problem, you should be close to a diagnosis. When was your last tune up? How many miles on the motor/truck (if different)?

Any codes thrown? A/C on is in the map on the ECU and should be automatically adjusted for. If not a sensor could be stating the temp incorrectly, that the A/C is off or of course there could be something that causing it to happen.

Very true. In that case you should be able to reset the computer and the car will run in "limp" or "learning" mode for like the first 50-100 miles until it recollects data. If resetting the computer temporarily solves the problem, I would start testing sensors with an ohm's meter, for acceptable tolerances. Depending on the car, may go into default right away IF there is a faulty sensor, and only collect data from key sensors.

I hooked a multimeter up to it and a.ohm.meter, thanks

 

 

Have you checked the catalytic converter? I have seen them start plugging up and cause weird issues. I have seen older vehicles start and run normal, but at highway speeds make you think something in drive train going bad.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

We're all assuming OBD2, but I don't think so given he still has a distributor.

[nem 2,019]

Then again I have seen crank position sensors trick mechanics into thinking fuel pumps were bad on GM products.

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

That vehicle also has a MAP sensor. Is a externally mounted vacuum device. I believe it is on the passenger side of the engine, possibly mounted on the valve cover or firewall. Will be a tiny box with a vacuum line and wires going to it. It is not inside of the air intake like the MAF.

The thing is a vacuum leak in the hose to the map sensor causes the map sensor to indicate a higher than normal pressure (less vacuum) in the manifold, which makes the computer think the engine is under much more load than it really is. As a result, the ignition timing is retarded and the fuel mixture is richened.

So yeah see if you can retrieve the codes as I posted above or go get them read at an auto parts store. Those are all free things you can do, that I posted. Other than change your fuel filter which is not a bad idea. Sometimes can even be replaced without any tools. Google some YouTube videos of all the procedures everybody has suggested. That alone will give you more understanding of your car. Is the only way on a BK budget.

[nem 2,019]

I have been thinking since the wife's dogs are getting older a good replacement is going to be a wookie. 

[Tirefryr 1,742]

That'd be retarded but possible

Pun intended?

[mikel7829 90]

Like this for example is what I am looking for...

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CESSNA-340-PISTON-ENGINES-PRESSURISED-TWIN-AIRCRAFT-/141639913088?forcerrptr=true&hash=item20fa658e80&item=141639913088

[mikel7829 90]

Then again I have seen crank position sensors trick mechanics into thinking fuel pumps were bad on GM products.

Very common problem in GM products

[///M5 2,833]

If it is his sig it is a 98 S10 so either 2.8 or 4.3 no?

No idea how smart GM's ECU in that era. Actually seems idiotic even today how little information they keep considering, but for me since it is free to check I'd first want to see if it faulted out on ANY of the sensors or had strange readings it logged. Over advanced timing would of course show up but retarded not.

Is your gas mileage significantly shittier than usual?

[///M5 2,833]

So, my truck died twice last month and a brought into a repair shop, 1st time they said.it was the anti theft wire that was corroded and fixed it, second time it died the same way and would not start up again, they told me this time it was a plate on the distributor that was spinning that wasnt suppose to move. Long story short i dont know any good mechanic shops around and after putting 500$ in my truck last month and having it die and not start up the same exact way, i no dont trust them either, in fact when got my truck back they left a vacuum line off.

The problem im having now is when the A/C is on and the truck comes to a stop it feels like its going to die, also im not certain but it feels like my 1998 chevy s10 doesnt have as much power with the A/C on like it did before... I dont know a lot about automotive but I am thinking it might be a vacuum leak, or hose thats off... any ideas? Thanks

I am guessing something to do with the a/c compressor clutch. If shutting off the a/c solves the problem, you should be close to a diagnosis. When was your last tune up? How many miles on the motor/truck (if different)?

Any codes thrown? A/C on is in the map on the ECU and should be automatically adjusted for. If not a sensor could be stating the temp incorrectly, that the A/C is off or of course there could be something that causing it to happen.

Very true. In that case you should be able to reset the computer and the car will run in "limp" or "learning" mode for like the first 50-100 miles until it recollects data. If resetting the computer temporarily solves the problem, I would start testing sensors with an ohm's meter, for acceptable tolerances. Depending on the car, may go into default right away IF there is a faulty sensor, and only collect data from key sensors.

I hooked a multimeter up to it and a.ohm.meter, thanks

 

Have you checked the catalytic converter? I have seen them start plugging up and cause weird issues. I have seen older vehicles start and run normal, but at highway speeds make you think something in drive train going bad.

Exactly why mine are about to go BYE

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

Piper Cherokee is another good one, IF you don't mind a low wing.

 

I live where Piper started. Lots of time spent watching Piper air planes fly and a couple of friends own Cubs and one owns a Mikoyan Mig-AT which is for-sale currently.

They are fun little planes.

[///M5 2,833]

We're all assuming OBD2, but I don't think so given he still has a distributor.

GM that backwards in 98???

[///M5 2,833]

That'd be retarded but possible

Pun intended?

more of a double entendre

[///M5 2,833]

Like this for example is what I am looking for...

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CESSNA-340-PISTON-ENGINES-PRESSURISED-TWIN-AIRCRAFT-/141639913088?forcerrptr=true&hash=item20fa658e80&item=141639913088

Why? Not that I too wouldn't like to fly recreationally, but still always wonder what the use is.