Welcome to the IHoP v.2

[///M5 2,833]

We did mechanic uniforms for a while and the slobs we did them for were so dirty we had to dry clean them and then wash them.  The shit was so nasty it gobbed up a professional machine so we bought consumer ones to do it.  The year we had top loaders our garment cost sky rocketed.  In the end we figured about 5-7x the washings in the front was equivalent to the top.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

14 minutes ago, ///M5 said:

Washing wears out your clothes faster than wearing them. WAY faster.

I used to dryclean my clothes for this reason.  The literally lasted 10x as long.  Black jeans even stay black, it's crazy how much wear happens as the fabric cells soak up the water and release it.

And yes of course the dryer is uber hard on them as well, but if there was no water that wouldn't be the case either.

 

Of course, but to what extent?  I'm assuming he's not washing his shirts every single day.  Once a week should last for several years, especially given the quality of shirts I'm sure the two of you are buying.  Not exactly off the rack Jos. A Bank shit I buy.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

15 minutes ago, mikel7829 said:

This did happen once before and I did do the nob just kinda like you was saying..It started working I just thought it was coincidental ..I figured it just on its way out..I tried and tried that this time POS still just hums sometimes it gets real load and I guess it goes into thermal overload and will not do jack for a bit...then it will fill up,but just hum when suppose to be agitating...I can turn it to rinse and spin cycle and it works fine..Can I just clean the contacts?I was thinking the pump connects to the motor and a little shaft I took the pump off and the motor spent freely both directons..If when its agitating switches the polarity to the motor back and forth correct? Could something be jammed in the pump not letting the motor turn in that one dirrection?.I guess I can just take the pump off of the motor after it fills up with the hoses still connected and see if it agitates then this should rule the pump out right? And is there a way to clean the contactors in the controls with out taking the timer plum apart?

I can't say without actually working on your specific unit itself.  Some of them are very easy to rip apart and access.  Some of them have separate components that are solid state and not serviceable.  You'll just have to play with it, or Google for some help on your specific model.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

17 minutes ago, ///M5 said:

Wash something that is on the hairy edge of being thread bare in both a top loader  with an agitator and a front loader and you won't want to use the top loader ever again.

I would never wash that article in a top loader, in fact, nobody ever should, but alas, there are some ignorant and stupid people out there.

15 minutes ago, ///M5 said:

We did mechanic uniforms for a while and the slobs we did them for were so dirty we had to dry clean them and then wash them.  The shit was so nasty it gobbed up a professional machine so we bought consumer ones to do it.  The year we had top loaders our garment cost sky rocketed.  In the end we figured about 5-7x the washings in the front was equivalent to the top.

 

What were they doing to them. 

I know it doesn't compare to a dry cleaning business, but when I was at you know where, we had accounts that required tar wash and the formulas are designed to clean the textile and the machine at the same time.  Shop towels were the worst!   As long as our chemical injection and softening system was functioning properly, there was no problem removing tar with no damage to the textiles or machinery.  We even had some steel and aluminum accounts which required molten metals to be removed from FR fibers.  I don't know the science behind it, but when the metal meets the textile, the heat forms a barrier to keep the metal from getting through the FR fiber which also enables it to be laundered and removed.  Pretty wicked shit, but if you launder it incorrectly, that FR fiber turns into kindling instead.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

An even more interested fact, you can not dry FR textiles over 120degrees F.  It degrades the fabric, even though it can withstand thousands from molten metals.  Wrap your head around that.

[mikel7829 90]

39 minutes ago, Tirefryr said:

I can't say without actually working on your specific unit itself.  Some of them are very easy to rip apart and access.  Some of them have separate components that are solid state and not serviceable.  You'll just have to play with it, or Google for some help on your specific model.

Im going to just pull everything out of the bottom tomorrow..pump,motor,trans and inspect to see if something may have gotten logged in the pump..A small rock or whatever..And while I am at it I am going to WD40 the heck out of everything too..Then if it still does it I will inspect the controls and what not.

[dem beats 1,223]

I have no science behind it, but I know for a fact that every top loader was so hard on my dress shirts I got the cleaned because it wore them so much faster.  And for me at the time it was extremely expensive to buy clothes.  I had to look really good to make money and I could not buy anything that didn't require altering.  

 

Top loaders didn't only cost me money in comparison to the front loader for my work clothes, I might have really liked that shirt, and the extra time to go get another shirt darted or completely.

 

Any way it's not scientific, but I personally went through 3 top loaders.  2 of which had gentle agitators .  One barely stuck out from the base.  It was tuna can wide instead of tall.  The cleaned so well.  I spent a pile of cash as I put them in the rental so they were the best with the best parts that can be fixed. They took a beating and cleaned stupidly stuffed and it would run.  But they all wore out my shirt faster.  Pants too, but I only wear dry clear trousers now as they last 100000× longer.

 

So in the end, for me, the actual gentle minstrations of a front loader saved me a pile of cash. 

Edited February 15, 2018 by dem beats

[///M5 2,833]

In a top loader dress shirt sleeve ends and collars are good for 20 or so washes and then they will start to be thread bare.  In a front loader 100.  

At $40-100 a shirt it is a no brainer to but a front loader.  Jeans are tougher but follow the same'ish formula.

[///M5 2,833]

100% cotton are the worst for absorbing and releasing water.  Could dry clean them 1000x and have them still look better than 20 in a top loader.  Of course the sweat stains would be nasty.

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

9 hours ago, mikel7829 said:

Im going to just pull everything out of the bottom tomorrow..pump,motor,trans and inspect to see if something may have gotten logged in the pump..A small rock or whatever..And while I am at it I am going to WD40 the heck out of everything too..Then if it still does it I will inspect the controls and what not.

Very likely the control knob. If there was a problem with the drum bearing, it would be leaking water. If it was the pump, it would not drain at any point.

These guys have a great diagnostics service, just enter the model number. https://www.repairclinic.com/?&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs5eQl4Wo2QIVC6J-Ch1SzwOlEAAYASAAEgJR4_D_BwE

As for cleaning the contacts in the timer, I would suggest some witch piss (electronic component cleaner).

 

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

16 hours ago, dem beats said:

LOL

 

I am using my PC for once to poast,  I like your quote.  

Some choose to call it ignorance, others say its bliss!!

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

13 hours ago, Tirefryr said:

Guarantee it's a manual knob and you are on the right track.  Obviously you've experienced this before.

Oh gawd to think of all the appliances I fixed. For myself and poor friends/family.

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

A dry fit...

a lttle bracing!....

All glued up and clamped!!

 

[///M5 2,833]

projects getting somewhere!

[mikel7829 90]

1 hour ago, j-roadtatts said:

Very likely the control knob. If there was a problem with the drum bearing, it would be leaking water. If it was the pump, it would not drain at any point.

These guys have a great diagnostics service, just enter the model number. https://www.repairclinic.com/?&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs5eQl4Wo2QIVC6J-Ch1SzwOlEAAYASAAEgJR4_D_BwE

As for cleaning the contacts in the timer, I would suggest some witch piss (electronic component cleaner).

 

Would the control nob make it hum from the motor area though? There is a shaft on the motor that fits into the pump when it agitates it simultaneously goes counter clockwise and clockwise it just hums when its suppose to go counter clockwise..If the pump won't spin freely one way that couldn't cause it? 

[dem beats 1,223]

2 hours ago, j-roadtatts said:

A dry fit...

a lttle bracing!....

All glued up and clamped!!

 

I'm not please that you got that built so fast and I'm working on year 10 here to build a simple box.

Got me jelly.  Looks amazing friend!

[mikel7829 90]

2 hours ago, j-roadtatts said:

A dry fit...

a lttle bracing!....

All glued up and clamped!!

 

Nice bro! Looks like the router did a good job!

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

1 hour ago, mikel7829 said:

Would the control nob make it hum from the motor area though? There is a shaft on the motor that fits into the pump when it agitates it simultaneously goes counter clockwise and clockwise it just hums when its suppose to go counter clockwise..If the pump won't spin freely one way that couldn't cause it? 

IDK, google the model and find out what ppl with that model of machine found when encountering the same problem.

 https://www.familyhandyman.com/appliance-repair/washer-and-dryer-repair/whirlpool-washer-won-t-agitate-fix-the-agitator-dogs/view-all/

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

2 hours ago, dem beats said:

I'm not please that you got that built so fast and I'm working on year 10 here to build a simple box.

Got me jelly.  Looks amazing friend!

It's hard to get motivated sometimes,  especially in the winter. Once I start though, the feeling of excitement takes over and I can't put down the tools. lol

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

39 minutes ago, mikel7829 said:

Nice bro! Looks like the router did a good job!

That and finally bought a jasper jig. Its on and clacking now!!

[mikel7829 90]

14 minutes ago, j-roadtatts said:

That and finally bought a jasper jig. Its on and clacking now!!

I need to get me a little home theatre going sound anyway.The built in speakers on my 49" LG 4k sux

[///M5 2,833]

Is anything broadcast in 4k yet?

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

10 minutes ago, ///M5 said:

Is anything broadcast in 4k yet?

Yes. On the Infinity X1 cable certain content is, such as the Olympics. Netflix premium also.

[dem beats 1,223]

8 minutes ago, ///M5 said:

Is anything broadcast in 4k yet?

Where most of the best content is, yes.  

YouTube and online media is incredible.  News in that online format is so much better too.  Gaming is way past 4k.  Like way way past.  

 

I wasn't sad until I saw a 4k on someone's nvidea shield.  Best media serving device out there.  Uses your PC for processing so you can play games with whatever power your PC can muster.  Access to all online streams like roku and 4k like a pimp.

[dem beats 1,223]

It's balls deep.