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hey guys, i ordered an 18in fi bl on the 20th and it's now the 23rd and it still says "awaiting payment" every time i check my order status. is this normal? how long should this process usually take? should i be concerned? any feedback on this whole process is greatly appreciated, thanks!

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Did you make a payment from your bank account through paypal? If so then that E-CHECK can take 5-10 business days to clear through the whole system. If you used a credit or debit card then it should have been pretty much instant.

If you paid using a bank account as the payment source just have some more patience. If you used a card then it may not hurt to email Fi and see if maybe something got crossed up on the order.

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i just used a credit card no paypal or anything. ill send an email over to fi an see whats going on

EDIT: just checked my order details and see that under billing info, i put my name rather than my dads. i remember filling out the form and when it asked for cardholder's name i put my dad's as it is his credit card, but could this cause an error? emailed Fi anyway. also, if i reorder it will i get billed twice? how does that work? once again feedback much appreciated!

Edited by njanowsky

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Yes, if the name used for the billing information does not match the card it will typically be declined.

I would wait for Fi's reply to your email on the situation. Your dad may not appreciate the bill when two 18's show up at your door, lol.

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Ya that wouldn't go over very well lol. Any idea how long it takes for them to reply usually? I want to get a general plan of when I should get my box built. While I'm here, lemme get your opinion on the setup I'm getting. I bought a hifonics brz2400.1d and an elite audi 1/0awg wiring kit. I got the flatwind coil and cooling option on my 18in BL, will this amp suffice? Will I need to upgrade my alternator? I recently got a new alternator put in my 2000 Jeep grand cherokee, not sure of the amperage....will a big 3 upgrade be vital? Thanks a bunch!

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It's impossible to say just how long it will take them to reply. Considering the nature of the issue I would resend the email if you've not heard back from them in 24hrs.

Did you order the sub with dual 1 or dual 2 ohm coils? That amp is rated a fair bit above the rating of the sub at 1 ohm. That's not a big deal for an experienced user, however considering several of your questions I tend to think you don't have the experience needed to safely use that amp with that sub at full tilt. Now, if you ordered the sub with dual 1 ohm coils with the intention of using the amp at a 2 ohm nominal load then its definitely a good match as the amp is rated for 1700wrms at 2 ohms. If you did indeed order the sub with dual 2 coils then I would recommend the brz1700.

The need to upgrade the alt will depend on what kind(s) and what number of batteries you plan on using and what kind of voltage drop you experience. I believe in always doing a big three no matter how small the system. I've sen it help some small electrical issues in vehicles that didn't even have systems in them due to such horrible factory grounding.

More important is the enclosure you're going to put the sub in. The sub in a properly designed and executed enclosure and installation powered by only a few hundred watts can outperform a horrible enclosure and less than ideal installation on 10x the power. Do you have a design yet? Are you building it yourself? Have you built any before?

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i ordered it with dual 2 ohm coils. im having a professional car audio store install it and i have a friend who is an experienced audio fanatic and has built many boxes. he hasnt started yet considering it's probably gonna be 6-8 weeks before i even have the sub, but i know he built a box for my friends 15in BL and its the loudest system ive heard. did i overdo it buying the brz2400? whats the rating on the sub, with the options i chose, and how would an "experienced" user adjust to the amp being too powerful?

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Well considering my payment hasn't even been processed yet, once I get a hold of Fi I could change the order to 1 ohm instead of 2 right? Should I do that rather than exchange my amp for the 1700.1d? Would it make sense to simply reorder the sub right now before hearing from Fi about my payment?

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Well considering my payment hasn't even been processed yet, once I get a hold of Fi I could change the order to 1 ohm instead of 2 right? Should I do that rather than exchange my amp for the 1700.1d? Would it make sense to simply reorder the sub right now before hearing from Fi about my payment?

I would not place another order before they contact you.

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Ya I don't think that would be a good idea...just really anxious to get my system haha. What's your opinion on the situation with my amp? Should I get the cheaper 1700.1d or when I figure out my payment problems just change the sub to dual 1ohm and wire it at 2ohms to the 2400.1d?

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Ya I don't think that would be a good idea...just really anxious to get my system haha. What's your opinion on the situation with my amp? Should I get the cheaper 1700.1d or when I figure out my payment problems just change the sub to dual 1ohm and wire it at 2ohms to the 2400.1d?

Change the sub, then if you add another you can wire to one ohm.

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I won't be adding another.

You say that now....No but if you are certain that you won't add another see if you can exchange it or get a refund to buy a different amp. Or just keep it.

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If I keep it how can I set up the system so the excess wattage of my amp won't damage the sub? Thanks a lot guys I know I'm an amateur here and I really appreciate all the help I've found on this site. :)

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Shawn I appreciate the communication you've been a huge help in figuring out this whole thing for me! Glad we got everythin sorted out.

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Which coil configuration did you end up with?

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ended up sticking with the 2 ohm. just gonna get the smaller amp or set the gains appropriate to this sub's ability when i get it installed

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ended up sticking with the 2 ohm. just gonna get the smaller amp or set the gains appropriate to this sub's ability when i get it installed

Sounds good!

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ended up sticking with the 2 ohm. just gonna get the smaller amp or set the gains appropriate to this sub's ability when i get it installed

Sounds good!

hopefully my jeep's electrical system can handle this! worth it to invest in a 8farad capacitor and maybe some extra 1/0awg wire for a big 3 upgrade? sorry im a noob, just would like a more professional opinion on this. i want to get full potential out of this sub :D

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ended up sticking with the 2 ohm. just gonna get the smaller amp or set the gains appropriate to this sub's ability when i get it installed
Sounds good!
hopefully my jeep's electrical system can handle this! worth it to invest in a 8farad capacitor and maybe some extra 1/0awg wire for a big 3 upgrade? sorry im a noob, just would like a more professional opinion on this. i want to get full potential out of this sub :D/>

No a cap is useless. Big 3 is a must, and possibly an upgraded/additional battery.

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ended up sticking with the 2 ohm. just gonna get the smaller amp or set the gains appropriate to this sub's ability when i get it installed

Sounds good!

hopefully my jeep's electrical system can handle this! worth it to invest in a 8farad capacitor and maybe some extra 1/0awg wire for a big 3 upgrade? sorry im a noob, just would like a more professional opinion on this. i want to get full potential out of this sub biggrin.png

Capacitor is a waste of money^^

I have an 02 Laredo running a HFI 1500D @ 1 Ohm It puts out roughly 13-1400 watts, gives severe voltage drop/light dimming.

I haven't gotten around to doing the BIG 3 But that is essential when upgrading your electrical system anyways.

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Damn Rick beat me to it

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Does this hinder the subs performance or just takes too much power from the electrical system causin the light dimming or whatever it may be?

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It won't be good for your electrical. Your cars or you audio systems electrical.

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