Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Okay I'm sorry in advance if this topic has been posted about before in this forum but to my credit i did look.

 

I just recieved my sa-12 (dual 4 ohm) from ssa yesterday smile.png:)  and i have it on a jx 1000/1 wired to 2 ohms in a ported box thats too small for it (sorry but thats how it is) it sounds good though. I try to avoid hammering on it for too long but  I do turn it up to the full 1000 watts  for a few seconds at a time.     

I just want to break it in correctly to avoid blowing it or damaging it because i do exceed the rated power sometimes.

 

How important is "breaking in" a subwoofer in is and if it is important, what is the correct procedure to break it in?

 

Also what does "breaking in" a sub do that is so important?   

Edited by Trent Hari

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just play it. If you blow it then it is getting too much power and has nothing to do with "break in". Be careful running that much power.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The best way to break in a sub woofer is to simply play music on it. If you try by other methods, open air for x amount of time, or, x amount of time on x Frequency, it only breaks in at that application. Playing music, you will break in across the sub woofers playing frequency. Which is the best way to do so.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In my experience subwoofers can get lower and louder over a little time but wont mess up or anything bumping hard when its brand new

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alright sounds good!  Thanks for all your help :) That was a very fast response. I noticed that subs do get louder over time but I blew a 5th gen Alpine R on 1000 watts by playing a 20hz to 200 hz sine wave because the sub was making a loud clapping sound on music (bottoming out i guess) and i was trying to diagnose it sigh.gif   I just didnt want to repeat that mistake.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

unload much?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There a ssf on the amp?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The ONLY time you should break something in is if you need to measure the T/S parameters for modeling as they will change after the suspension loosens up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The ONLY time you should break something in is if you need to measure the T/S parameters for modeling as they will change after the suspension loosens up.

 

 

 

That's an awesome way to blow a new subwoofer. 

 

Sundown even says do not play your new sub at rated power until the break in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow I have been in the hobby since 87 and played every sub I ever owned the same way.  If you blow a sub it is your own fault and not because it was not broken in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The ONLY time you should break something in is if you need to measure the T/S parameters for modeling as they will change after the suspension loosens up.

 

 

 

That's an awesome way to blow a new subwoofer. 

 

Sundown even says do not play your new sub at rated power until the break in.

The ONLY way to "break in" a driver is to exercise the suspension.  Playing it at a low volume for some arbitrary period of time is completely counterproductive to that goal. 

 

Break-in for the normal everyday user is completely unnecessary.  Plug it in and play it like you normally would.  It will break in with regular, normal use.  The only time a break in "needs" to be done is as M5 pointed out, to measure accurate T/S, or simply to verify the driver is functioning properly prior to use (no scrapping, rubbing, etc). 

 

IF you really wanted to break in the driver, you need to actually USE it.  Play it at or near Xmax in free-air to exercise the suspension. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The ONLY time you should break something in is if you need to measure the T/S parameters for modeling as they will change after the suspension loosens up.

 

 

 

That's an awesome way to blow a new subwoofer. 

 

Sundown even says do not play your new sub at rated power until the break in.

I ran 3k to a zcon 15 a couple days after it was reconed and didn't seem to do anything...... it forsure did get a lot lower after a few days though

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The ONLY time you should break something in is if you need to measure the T/S parameters for modeling as they will change after the suspension loosens up.

That's an awesome way to blow a new subwoofer.

Sundown even says do not play your new sub at rated power until the break in.

That's not necessary.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes the amps specs say that it has a freq response of 20+ hz if someone could  look at the specs for the JL audio JX 1000/1 and tell me if it needs a subsonic filter for it. I looked at the specs but i can't tell if i need a SSF i'm not an expert in this stuff (Hey at least i admit it). If someone can post a link for an inline RCA Subsonic filter for an appropriate frequency for a SA-12 if it needs it I would be grateful (I looked but i couldnt find one that i thought was right) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

from what i see it does not. :(

 

 something  that you need. and from what i read  most likly the reason for your type Rs death.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

from what i see it does not. sad.png

 

 something  that you need. and from what i read  most likly the reason for your type Rs death.

I think that they are fixed at ~28hz like the RF amps, I could be wrong though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Never mind, from the JL site "Infrasonic Filter: none"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

from what i see it does not. sad.png

 

 something  that you need. and from what i read  most likly the reason for your type Rs death.

I think that they are fixed at ~28hz like the RF amps, I could be wrong though.

 i was wondering the same thing, but i read  all the specs on the JL website and i didnt see  anything like that. maybe i missed it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

from what i see it does not. sad.png

 

 something  that you need. and from what i read  most likly the reason for your type Rs death.

I think that they are fixed at ~28hz like the RF amps, I could be wrong though.

 i was wondering the same thing, but i read  all the specs on the JL website and i didnt see  anything like that. maybe i missed it

Look up one post, I posted right before you did. No ssf you were right.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That sucks for such an expensive amp.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 thats what i was thinking,. you really gotta watch your self or your gonna be going thru subs .

 

   you should get an external cross over with a sub sonic on it, or a pair of these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harrison-Lab-F-Mod-FMOD-30hz-Subsonic-Rumble-Filter-XOs-/290506420336?pt=US_Speaker_Parts_Components&hash=item43a3883070

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanx.gif I just bought the 30 hz filters. I do hear distortion sometimes and im sure it will clear up the problems im having.  I hear a light knocking sometimes at higher volumes but the cone isnt moving any where near xmech (maybe 1-1.5 in)  I hope its not bottoming out. sometimes it has way more travel but doesnt make that noise so im not sure what the deal is.  Some professional insight might help

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The ONLY time you should break something in is if you need to measure the T/S parameters for modeling as they will change after the suspension loosens up.

 

 

 

That's an awesome way to blow a new subwoofer. 

 

Sundown even says do not play your new sub at rated power until the break in.

Ha, rofl. Not at all. Unlike yourself I am not an idiot. BTW, it is exactly what we do during prototype testing at manufacturers so perhaps you want to tell them all it is wrong too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

    1. Recent Topics

        • 17 comments
        • 178 views
        • 393 comments
        • 32,175 views
        • 2 comments
        • 670 views
        • 5 comments
        • 1,446 views
        • 6 comments
        • 1,015 views
        • 1 comment
        • 961 views
  • Similar Content

    • By Ryann627
      I currently own a 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier that I am currently building a subwoofer install in.
      My complete and current installs:
      New Kenwood KDC-BT378U radio with built-in speaker amp, All new door and deck speakers. (COMPLETE)
      Big 3 Kit, Mechman 270 AMP Alternator, (1) Sundown ZV6 12" 2-OHM 2500W Subwoofer (wired to 1 OHM), One run of 1/0 gauge wire complete with fuse and capacitor), Fiberglass Subwoofer Box(Not sure what size yet, any help on this would be greatly appreciated)
      Just wondering if all the above installs with be able to comfortably power a 3000 watt amplifier to run the subwoofer properly? I know Sundown Subwoofers are underrated, just not sure if I want to over-power by more than 500W, seems safer to me like that, unless I'm wrong? Never dealt with this much power before, max was 600 watts before this build.
      Any other install recommendations? Bigger battery because it is stock? Better springs for the added weight in the rear? Box will be fiberglass but the subwoofer alone weighs 95 pounds.
      Thanks in advance guys.
    • By Aaron Clinton
      A brief introduction to the all new SSA Demon, but first a farewell to its predecessor. 
           Our very long running SSA Dcon has ridden off into the sunset, or at least taking a breather.  The SSA Dcon was our second subwoofer model we ever launched.  At the very beginning, we had the Icon and as it gained traction we saw there was a need for a pure SQ sub of more modest power rating than that the Icon.  So in early 2008, the first SSA Dcon was launched.  (The Xcon followed shortly after).  That being said, the Dcon was almost an immediate hit, with a long 2" copper coil (rarity to have one made in the USA) triple stack motor, rear vent.  The Dcon was very affordable, well made, quite efficient, clean across the entire range, and flexible with enclosure demands.  It is interesting as there are some SSA Family members who swear by their Dcon and will not give it up ever.  (It even became a favorite of some of the home audio crowd).  All that being said, the Dcon evolved a bit for its second generation, we made a leap forward in motor force moving to what is best described as a scaled down Xcon motor, with a large single slug, solid pole, and deeply bumped back plate, while beefing up the suspension and leads.  We were able to bring the power handling up 33% while not hurting the sound that made the Dcon successful.  There was a stretch of a few years, before we ran out of stock, that the SSA Dcon 12 was our all time best selling subwoofer.  So its existence was very important to SSA.  Well with changes in the market (read:customer demands and amps getting much cheaper), as well as sky rocketing material costs, building the Dcon in the USA no longer was an option, so production stopped early 2017 for both the Dcon (and Gcon) and inventory ran out later that year. 
           Late last year, due to the long lay off with out the Dcon (and Gcon), we started development of an updated Dcon at a new build house.  The quality and performance of our SSA Evil1 tweeters were above our expectations, so we decided to send more production to that same build house.   As we saw that the market slowed overall for modest power rated subs due to power getting cheaper and people wanting higher power handling subs, so the market began to really start heating up in the 500 - 1200 watt range, I knew we needed to address it.  There is an 8" model developed, but it will not make it this first production run.  
           The new model had to handle more power and have more xmax while not sacrificing the balanced and clean sound the Dcon had established for nearly a decade.  That meant larger motor, larger coil, more suspension, larger leads, thicker cone, taller surround, etc.  In the end, all of the changes that happened to the over all design, we could no longer call it a Dcon.  In sticking with the theme of the Evil, a model name that has become so well known, while respecting the Dcon, the Demon name was selected.  The Demon is a great blend of the previous Dcon and Xcon, both in design and appearance.  In prototype testing, the SSA Demon thrived smaller to mid-sized ported and mid-sized sealed enclosures.
      Quick SSA Demon stats:
      2.5" copper coil Aluminum former Aluminum Shorting ring Solid pole, non-vented bumped back plate Large single slug motor Pressed pulp cone Tall roll surround Push terminals Dual Nomex progressive spiders Stitched tinsel leads Large dome dustcap I will list T/S specs and enclosure recommendations shortly.  We are very excited about the SSA Demon as it bringing back to our line up a pure sound quality subwoofer that will be affordable, while still having the characteristic SSA warmth and output. 
       
       
       

    • By DedicatedEnthusiast
      B2 Audio X2C 15
      $650 shipped!
      Contact at 440-915-2309 for further questions/concerns. 

       
    • By DedicatedEnthusiast
      Somewhat blown (sub still plays) Sundown X v.2 motor.
      $150 shipped!
      Basket included.
      Contact at 440-915-2309 for further questions/concerns.

  • Recent YouTube Posts

×