Cablguy184's 1949 Ford Tudor Sedan

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

Yea, if I ever quit inspecting boats ill have loads of free time.

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

While you got it stripped I'd look into pushing the fire wall towards the front to get your sound stage further away.

[Randal Johnson 544]

While you got it stripped I'd look into pushing the fire wall towards the front to get your sound stage further away.

Fire wall is as close to engine as its gonna get ... With the component set being installed directly into the dash, the stage should be up and out on the hood where it should be.

[Randal Johnson 544]

 

The component set is going to be installed flush with the dash (driver placement, angles and such will be determined at a later date) ... On the drivers side as close to the driver door as possible and the glove compartment will be replaced with right side portion of the component set as close to the passenger door as possible ...

If you look, you can tell that there is planty of room behind this dash. Enough room so that each midrange driver will get it's own ported and tuned enclosure ... More details on this will come later on in the build ...

[Randal Johnson 544]

Yea, if I ever quit inspecting boats ill have loads of free time.

Yes Sir ... I understand

[Randal Johnson 544]

Got my Wiring Harness kit ordered today ... Someone is taking care of this (ordering) for me while I'm running a new wiring harness kit in his 38 Chevy Coupe, So I will post the details of the harness kit as soon as I have it ... I'm going to try my best and detail that wiring setup as if the entire wiring / electrical section of this car is being judged in Sound Quality wiring inspection ...

The only thing that I have to really concentrate on is the addition of audio / LED wiring in their respected locations ... I'm thinking that the only thing that really needs to be run on their own is the RCA (coax) cables, so I should be able to run them separately at a later date ...

One step closer to getting this car on the road !!!

Edited June 25, 2013 by Cablguy184

[Randal Johnson 544]

Over the last few days I've been working to help out a friend with his car's electrical system. We had to completly rewire his electrical.

So we ordered a wiring harness kit for this. Easy to install, Bout the only hard part was gutting out the old rats nest of a wiring harness ...

Since I'm doing this to my car, I volunteered to do his electrical setup in return he pays for my wiring harness kit ... Awesome Deal for both of us !!!

I should be done with this by this weekend ...

Just for an added thank you for his business ... I am wiring up and installing his stereo too (nice Pioneer unit with 4 speakers in fairly hidden locations) ... I will post pics when I'm done if anyone's interested.

[Randal Johnson 544]

The other day I got my hands on a set of bucket seats out of a 96 Chevy Silverado. They need to be recovered, but will work fine for now during the build to manuver the car around to the different shops and stuff ... The only problem was that the seats were too wide for the car. It has a big center console thingy so we too that off to cut off of a section of the seat brackets to make the seats fit properly ...

Today I got one of my partners of crime in the Mississippi Street Rod Association Hulon Slay to cut, fit, and reweld my seat brackets ... Couldn't ask for a better setup than what I got. So far, everything is lining up perfectly !!! Thank you Hulon !!! Hopefully I will have the seats reinstalled back to the brackets and installed into the car this weeked ...

[Randal Johnson 544]

 

I'm running a new wiring harness kit in his 38 Chevy Coupe,

One step closer to getting this car on the road !!!

Check this out guys !!! A piece of old school Pioneer history ... pulled it out of the 38 Chevy !!!

[ricksi30 923]

True old school, nice!

[Randal Johnson 544]

 

True old school, nice!

Thanks man !!! Yea, I wanted to bring it home, but the owner said that he was going to put it in his throphy case in his pawn shop ... Oh well

[Randal Johnson 544]

Cool beans man!  I don't remember if you mentioned it or not, but what are the wheel plans?  Might look really cool with the just the steelies painted or some baby moons.

Not sure yet brother ... but with all the work going on at the moment, I do not see any updates to the wheels and tires any time soon.

Also in the pic on post #121, you can see that the wheel tubs are kind of narrow if I wanted to add bigger wheels and tires. So there might be some customizing there if we decide to go with bigger wheels and tires ...

I haven't priced custom built wheel tubs in a LONG time !!! We may can go with alot of backspacing ... but narrowing the origional rear end is completely out of the question ... I sure that the hot rod builders from Mississippi Street Rod's Association will be helping me out with this at a later date ... I really would like to see this car completely on the ground with some big ass wheels and tires on it !!! Lead Sled style !!!

Got my eyes on a set of cool universal 20s at my friend's pawn shop. He said that they are mine if they fit, but I have to get the car driveable (lights working for the most part) so I can get it up there to try them out ...

He also has a set of old school Weld Wheels from a pro street car that may fit ... Well, front ones. The rear wheels and tires would require ALOT of work that I'm now wanting to get into at this point and time of the build ...

I may look into finding some wheels out from under something like a Crown Vic, Town Car, or something similar ...

I would like to have the aire ride installed before I made any kind of final decision on the wheel and tire setup ...

[Randal Johnson 544]

These look AMAZING !!! Can't wait to see them on the car !!! Thank you Mike, If you get a chance ... please quote this post and give us some details on these lights !!!

EDIT: Mike is on CA-F, so as soon as he post his update for this ... I will copy and paste it to hare !!!

They are glass lenses with corrected diffusion to retain the factory headlight look, metal reflector housings with correct spacer feet to fit the factory alignment slots(this keeps housing from rotating while driving). They have mounting holes and brackets stamped into the housing/reflector to allow use of aftermarket Halogen or Xenon gas bulbs, or HIDs for that matter.

 

Also ... Got me a tow bar ordered so I can just hook up and pull her around instead of loading her on and off of a trailer all of the time ...

Edited June 27, 2013 by Cablguy184

[ricksi30 923]

The headlights look good, glad to see daily progress! 

[ricksi30 923]

The headlights look good, glad to see daily progress! 

[Randal Johnson 544]

The headlights look good, glad to see daily progress!

The headlights look good, glad to see daily progress!

Thank you Sir !!!

[Randal Johnson 544]

Copy and paste from the IHOP ...

I am seriously dumbfounded that Randal is going to go through all that install work and use a passive.

I'm not ... Well, I am running passive with the tweeter / midrange drivers simply because they are the EXACT same measuremants to the listner's ears so there is no reason to time align them separately ... And since the midbass / subbass drivers in the kickpannels will be at different maesurement positions, they will be time aligned separately ... So yes, for the most part, I will be running an active system, just one section will be passive ...

[Randal Johnson 544]

Non-custom measured in place passives are a bad idea.

on a home audio system let's say a 2 way setup where you have the tweeter and the midrange drivers in the exact same enclosures (as in a left and right cabinet) ... Would you time align the tweetes and midrange drivers separately ???

WAY too much work on your install to do that.

I have all the time in the world to get this thing set up the way I want ...

thats the beauty of building a street machine yourself !!!

Edited June 27, 2013 by Cablguy184

[Randal Johnson 544]

 

Copy and paste from the IHOP ...

I am seriously dumbfounded that Randal is going to go through all that install work and use a passive.

I'm not ... Well, I am running passive with the tweeter / midrange drivers simply because they are the EXACT same measuremants to the listner's ears so there is no reason to time align them separately ... And since the midbass / subbass drivers in the kickpannels will be at different maesurement positions, they will be time aligned separately ... So yes, for the most part, I will be running an active system, just one section will be passive ...

Just so we are clear here ... if for some reason that I have to go completely active and I need to be completely convinced that passive just will not work ... You already know that I have the necessary equipment to go fully active if need be ... But in all actuallity, I do not see this a problem when we get to this part of the build ... Edited June 27, 2013 by Cablguy184

[///M5 2,833]

Non-custom measured in place passives are a bad idea.

on a home audio system let's say a 2 way setup where you have the tweeter and the midrange drivers in the exact same enclosures (as in a left and right cabinet) ... Would you time align the tweetes and midrange drivers separately ???

>WAY too much work on your install to do that.

I have all the time in the world to get this thing set up the way I want ...

thats the beauty of building a street machine yourself !!!

 

Randal, I NEVER said anything about time alignment.  Just passive or active.

 

As for your other question of passive not working, I'd NEVER say that either.  However, with the amount of work you are putting into this using off the shelf crossovers is asinine.  If you build custom passives based on in situ measurements then is all I have to say.  Personally I am too lazy for that in a car when running active is so much easier.

 

Off the shelf passives are designed with a TON of compromises.  Considering the enclosure building, location manipulation and so many steps you are putting into this car to make it sweet not doing the same on the crossovers would be a crying shame.

[///M5 2,833]

I'd of course say the same about using any driver from a set that includes a passive as well, but thought I'd leave that comment separate.

 

The goal here is to utilize your install space as much as possible and not compromise there.  You have only so many places you can put things in your car, choosing a specific driver that has an optimal response for that location will do wonders.  Using a component set will just be lackluster in comparison.  This of course is further exacerbated by the fact that you have the locations to build actual enclosures and sets with passives are never optimized for that sort of install.  It is akin (and worse) than using a sub that is designed for a large ported enclosure in a small sealed.

[Randal Johnson 544]

///M5, on 27 Jun 2013 - 09:57, said:

Randal, I NEVER said anything about time alignment. Just passive or active.

Off the shelf passives are designed with a TON of compromises.

Its cool bro ... When the time gets here (with my luck and budget ... might be a while), we will do what is best for the car ... hell, I've got to get the seats correctly mounted and mocked up so we can measure something. I just got the seat frame welded together yesterday.

And the passive crossovers I'm running are FAR FROM "Off the shelf passive crossvers" ...

I know you don't like them ... but is cool, life would suck if I didn't get to piss off atleast one person a day ... LOL

[Randal Johnson 544]

///M5, on 27 Jun 2013 - 10:00, said:

The goal here is to utilize your install space as much as possible and not compromise there. You have only so many places you can put things in your car, choosing a specific driver that has an optimal response for that location will do wonders.

Dude ... Have you seen any pics I've posted in this log ?? This car is a monster lead sled ... I have more than enough room to install anything I want ... I could pull a Mark Eldridge and install 12s in the kicks If I want ...

possibilities are endless when you completely gut a car as large as this one and start from scratch ...

[///M5 2,833]

///M5, on 27 Jun 2013 - 09:57, said:

Randal, I NEVER said anything about time alignment. Just passive or active.

Off the shelf passives are designed with a TON of compromises.

Its cool bro ... When the time gets here (with my luck and budget ... might be a while), we will do what is best for the car ... hell, I've got to get the seats correctly mounted and mocked up so we can measure something. I just got the seat frame welded together yesterday.

And the passive crossovers I'm running are FAR FROM "Off the shelf passive crossvers" ...

I know you don't like them ... but is cool, life would suck if I didn't get to piss off atleast one person a day ... LOL

If they aren't designed in situ then they are "off the shelf"

[///M5 2,833]

///M5, on 27 Jun 2013 - 10:00, said:

The goal here is to utilize your install space as much as possible and not compromise there. You have only so many places you can put things in your car, choosing a specific driver that has an optimal response for that location will do wonders.

Dude ... Have you seen any pics I've posted in this log ?? This car is a monster lead sled ... I have more than enough room to install anything I want ... I could pull a Mark Eldridge and install 12s in the kicks If I want ...

possibilities are endless when you completely gut a car as large as this one and start from scratch ...

So then go for it.  Exactly why I commented above.