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Hey everyone, I've been working on getting everything ready for my new set up. This will be going in a 01 blazer s10 extreme, it is my daily driver and will most likely not be doing competitions. Will put up pictures as I progress.

What I have and want:

HU - (OWN) - Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS

PROCESSOR - (OWN) - miniDSP 4 x 10 hd. I was planning on getting the MS8 but I've heard it does not like trying to work with horns. Can I expect this from the miniDSP as well (I really hope someone with experience can chime in here) or will the DSP help my speakers shine?

SUBSTAGE - (OWN) - 1 2010 Fi Q 18" d1, fully loaded (without high Qts) in a 8 ft^3 box tuned to 29 hz. (Best sounding sub stage I've heard, and to all who think this sub can't get loud, It can) ran of a aq2200d (bass knob under dash) Hi pass set at 25 hz, low pass at 80 hz.

MIDRANGE - (NEED) - 2 either 6.5", 8", or 10" midrange.

HIGHS - (OWN) - 2 custom built HF neo compression drivers with ID horns. These can be crossed as low as 800hz and after modeling have been very smooth up to 22k hz at 108db +/- 2 db, on 1 watt at 1 meter. These will be ran off the HU as they do not need a lot of power to get loud... I mean, really loud.

ELECTRICAL - (OWN) - 270a alt. 1 red top under hood. 1 run of 1/0 to back. 1 XS power 3100d in back. Shok Industries 1/0 wire for power and ground. And RF wire for rest of system.

For the mids I was looking at spending up to $250 each and am more than capable to modify the doors. They would be ran off a bridged RF T8004-AB (channels 1-2 for left, channels 3-4 for right) (Birth sheet has it close to 1100 RMS) My options so far are down between some B&C's, Beyma's, McCauley, and RCF. If needed I could do some kind of ported enclosure in the doors. So now to my main point: I'm hoping someone can guide me in a direction of an efficient midrange than can be used in a 2 way front stage (+1 sub) with horns (mid frequency - 70-1k hz) Would prefer to keep it between 6.5" and 8" with a max depth of 5.5". Im guessing my goals can be met with something smaller than a 10". My main goal is to keep as much sq as possible while playing with horns. Other resctrctions include: none

I've done my fair share of fiberglasing but I would prefer to make baffles extending out then sealing it after I finish sound deadening the doors with another layer. So far I have double layered dyno mat the floor, dash, ceiling, and all panels. Still up in the air if I want to foam the rest of the cracks.

For music I listen to jazz, rock, some rap.

All suggestions are open.

If you have any questions about my system or if I'm not clear enough at some part let me know.

THANKS IN ADVANCE

Edited by Fi 4 life

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miniDSP will be fine although you may need a line driver. I don't remember how flexible the 4x10 is for which plug ins, but as long as it'll cover the ranges and inputs it has more than enough power to tame everything appropriately.

Without porting your mids, you are going to not attain the lower frequency you are looking for. Real question then becomes how large of an enclosure can you manage. That will determine which driver.

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Right after I posted that I went and measured it hoping to edit my post for available room in the doors before someone replied. Thank you for your quick response. I came up with close to .9ft^3 but I can always modify as needed. There is also an open compartment that is under the back seat arm rests, they start about 4" behind the doors. My blazer is a 2 door. But I have close to 2.5 ft^3 there. So I could potentially put a 8"-10" there's then mod the door to fit something smaller? I would really prefer to keep the front stage a 2-way tho.

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From what I could tell about the mini DSP, each channel can have any high pass, low pass, TA, slope, etc... So if I wanted (idk why I would) but I could have a horn on channel 1 and the other on 4 if I wanted, or 3.

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From what I could tell about the mini DSP, each channel can have any high pass, low pass, TA, slope, etc... So if I wanted (idk why I would) but I could have a horn on channel 1 and the other on 4 if I wanted, or 3.

 

correct

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Should be able to fit a 10" in .9 unless it includes port in which case you are probably stuck with an 8. Probably will have to port around 70Hz which is close to what you want.

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If I can manage to do ported enclosures for the mid, ill try to figure out a box so I can have port parallel with the ground and towards top of door. Or would port perpendicular to ground, located towards front of door help with imaging and sound lcl since they will be closer? I think I'll be building this on the door instead of making the box and trying to fasten it securely to door. If I'm wrong here, let me know.

Edited by Fi 4 life

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I'm very interested in this thread. I too question if you was to port, which direction would you want to port them. Also, the crossover points of the midbass, how much of it will be affected since pairing with a horn?

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You will not be able to use the mini dsp and also power your horns from the h/u. The horns would not see any processing then, which they need.

I can tell you from experience ported enclosures in the door are very hard to get right. It is much easier to build ported pods in the kick panel area. There are numerous 8-10" drivers that come to mind that will work well in -1^3ft ported enclosures for your install.

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You will not be able to use the mini dsp and also power your horns from the h/u. The horns would not see any processing then, which they need.

I can tell you from experience ported enclosures in the door are very hard to get right. It is much easier to build ported pods in the kick panel area. There are numerous 8-10" drivers that come to mind that will work well in -1^3ft ported enclosures for your install.

Ahh I didn't see that he wanted to use his hu to power them. Good point.

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Tuned in...starting something of this nature in my Durango...look forward to the build op

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Here is another reason why midbass/midrange in doors is not optimal. You will need to cross the midbass/midrange above or around 800hz. Having these drivers mounted in your doors will pull your soundstage down. Think of it as a rainbow. The majority of your midrange frequencies coming from your dash area and the lower midrange coming from your doors. Really depends on how critical you want to be about achieving the best soundstage.

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Where would optimal placement be? Kick panel pods? On dash pods (lol?)

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For the best soundstage and imaging kick panel mounted midbass/midrange when used with horns.

As always what are you willing to compromise?

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I guess its a mute point because I wont be using horns(will use large format tweets), but what if door location is higher than pod location would be? or is it more the woofers are "on axis" more than off when not in doors?

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I never said I was putting the mids in doors because that would be optimal edouble. If I could fit them in the kicks I would, but my truck is a 5 speed and I wear size 16 shoes so there is not enough space. Could the horns be put in the doors and ran off axis? Axe hammer, if the tweeter or other speaker is pointed directly at you that is on axis. A speaker turned 45 degrees away from you is called 45 degrees off axis. If anyone would have some info about placing the mids behind me and to the side (7 o'clock from divers seat for left one and about 4-430 o'clock for the space behind the front passenger (from drivers spot) reguarding output that would be appreciated. now going back to one of my previous posts, would porting them in the door and having port be towards front of truck (horizontal, less than a half foot from where the corner of the end of the horn would be located, Horn is as far back and toward the outside as possible, planning to do a FEW modifications to keep them level, straight, flush, etc..) be my best bet with my given compromises? Just being able to comfortably sit in my truck

For powering the horns, after reading through the DSP manual, after it is hooked up to 12vdc it can produce 25 watts, can I use this power for my horns? Along with the rest of the tuning tools? Or would I need the miniAMP?

I was also given a good deal on a Pioneer DEH-80PRS that I will probably pick up just to have.

If I get the 80PRS, could this be as efficient as using the DSP? It would make things such as adjusting on the go extremely easy, and would then get a separate equalizer to fit under the deck in its factory location to really dial it in.

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I never said I was putting the mids in doors because that would be optimal edouble. If I could fit them in the kicks I would, but my truck is a 5 speed and I wear size 16 shoes so there is not enough space. Could the horns be put in the doors and ran off axis? Axe hammer, if the tweeter or other speaker is pointed directly at you that is on axis. A speaker turned 45 degrees away from you is called 45 degrees off axis. If anyone would have some info about placing the mids behind me and to the side (7 o'clock from divers seat for left one and about 4-430 o'clock for the space behind the front passenger (from drivers spot) reguarding output that would be appreciated. now going back to one of my previous posts, would porting them in the door and having port be towards front of truck (horizontal, less than a half foot from where the corner of the end of the horn would be located, Horn is as far back and toward the outside as possible, planning to do a FEW modifications to keep them level, straight, flush, etc..) be my best bet with my given compromises? Just being able to comfortably sit in my truck

For powering the horns, after reading through the DSP manual, after it is hooked up to 12vdc it can produce 25 watts, can I use this power for my horns? Along with the rest of the tuning tools? Or would I need the miniAMP?

I was also given a good deal on a Pioneer DEH-80PRS that I will probably pick up just to have.

If I get the 80PRS, could this be as efficient as using the DSP? It would make things such as adjusting on the go extremely easy, and would then get a separate equalizer to fit under the deck in its factory location to really dial it in.

 

If you can get the 80PRS then get it... it has awesome tuning capabilities ... and you won't need anything extra for tuning then

 

EDIT: would also allow you to hook up the horns directly to the HU without needing an amplifier as well

Edited by Shogen

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I never said I was putting the mids in doors because that would be optimal edouble. If I could fit them in the kicks I would, but my truck is a 5 speed and I wear size 16 shoes so there is not enough space. Could the horns be put in the doors and ran off axis?

 

ID horn bodies are designed to be mounted under the dash. They use the dash contour for sound dispersion.

 

 

Axe hammer, if the tweeter or other speaker is pointed directly at you that is on axis. A speaker turned 45 degrees away from you is called 45 degrees off axis. If anyone would have some info about placing the mids behind me and to the side (7 o'clock from divers seat for left one and about 4-430 o'clock for the space behind the front passenger (from drivers spot) reguarding output that would be appreciated.

 

You could place your midbass drivers behind you. Staging will certainly be affected. Some installs use midbass in the rear quarter panels (similar to your approach) and a dedicated midrange in the kicks with horns under the dash. I personally never listened to an install like this but a few that have seem to like it.

 

now going back to one of my previous posts, would porting them in the door and having port be towards front of truck (horizontal, less than a half foot from where the corner of the end of the horn would be located, Horn is as far back and toward the outside as possible, planning to do a FEW modifications to keep them level, straight, flush, etc..) be my best bet with my given compromises? Just being able to comfortably sit in my truck

 

Your legs will be squished mounting an enclosed large diameter midbass in the doors. It will stick out much farther than you are thinking.

 

Your horn mounting sounds like a good start. I assume you are using a large body ID horns since you say you can cross them at 800hz (the horn body dictates the high pass freq not the driver). Place tape on top of the horn body and use a protractor to draw a 20 degree angle (this the angle of the horn face in relationship to the driver, mini body is 30 degrees that is why they say they "cross fire harder") from the face through the compression driver opening. Place the horn body in your mounting location. You can then extend the line you drew on the horn with a string. The string or imaginary line should aim to the opposite side head or ear. Example: passenger horn to driver's side right ear and driver's horn to passenger side left ear. This will help you determine if the depth of the horn under that dash is correct. Vertically the horn bodies have to be parallel to the floor boards.

 

For powering the horns, after reading through the DSP manual, after it is hooked up to 12vdc it can produce 25 watts, can I use this power for my horns? Along with the rest of the tuning tools? Or would I need the miniAMP?

I was also given a good deal on a Pioneer DEH-80PRS that I will probably pick up just to have.

If I get the 80PRS, could this be as efficient as using the DSP? It would make things such as adjusting on the go extremely easy, and would then get a separate equalizer to fit under the deck in its factory location to really dial it in.

 

I prefer all-in-one units although a p-eq is hard to come by unless you have a separate dsp. But that is another topic.

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I never said I was putting the mids in doors because that would be optimal edouble. If I could fit them in the kicks I would, but my truck is a 5 speed and I wear size 16 shoes so there is not enough space. Could the horns be put in the doors and ran off axis?

 

ID horn bodies are designed to be mounted under the dash. They use the dash contour for sound dispersion.

 

 

>Axe hammer, if the tweeter or other speaker is pointed directly at you that is on axis. A speaker turned 45 degrees away from you is called 45 degrees off axis. If anyone would have some info about placing the mids behind me and to the side (7 o'clock from divers seat for left one and about 4-430 o'clock for the space behind the front passenger (from drivers spot) reguarding output that would be appreciated.

 

You could place your midbass drivers behind you. Staging will certainly be affected. Some installs use midbass in the rear quarter panels (similar to your approach) and a dedicated midrange in the kicks with horns under the dash. I personally never listened to an install like this but a few that have seem to like it.

 

now going back to one of my previous posts, would porting them in the door and having port be towards front of truck (horizontal, less than a half foot from where the corner of the end of the horn would be located, Horn is as far back and toward the outside as possible, planning to do a FEW modifications to keep them level, straight, flush, etc..) be my best bet with my given compromises? Just being able to comfortably sit in my truck

 

Your legs will be squished mounting an enclosed large diameter midbass in the doors. It will stick out much farther than you are thinking.

 

Your horn mounting sounds like a good start. I assume you are using a large body ID horns since you say you can cross them at 800hz (the horn body dictates the high pass freq not the driver). Place tape on top of the horn body and use a protractor to draw a 20 degree angle (this the angle of the horn face in relationship to the driver, mini body is 30 degrees that is why they say they "cross fire harder") from the face through the compression driver opening. Place the horn body in your mounting location. You can then extend the line you drew on the horn with a string. The string or imaginary line should aim to the opposite side head or ear. Example: passenger horn to driver's side right ear and driver's horn to passenger side left ear. This will help you determine if the depth of the horn under that dash is correct. Vertically the horn bodies have to be parallel to the floor boards.

 

For powering the horns, after reading through the DSP manual, after it is hooked up to 12vdc it can produce 25 watts, can I use this power for my horns? Along with the rest of the tuning tools? Or would I need the miniAMP?

I was also given a good deal on a Pioneer DEH-80PRS that I will probably pick up just to have.

If I get the 80PRS, could this be as efficient as using the DSP? It would make things such as adjusting on the go extremely easy, and would then get a separate equalizer to fit under the deck in its factory location to really dial it in.

 

I prefer all-in-one units although a p-eq is hard to come by unless you have a separate dsp. But that is another topic.

 

 

 

Are you talking about 30 deg from the inner corner of the throat? Just a little confused by the description

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Are you talking about 30 deg from the inner corner of the throat? Just a little confused by the description

 

EClarkPhoto-_zpse6e84354.jpg

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Are you talking about 30 deg from the inner corner of the throat? Just a little confused by the description

 

EClarkPhoto-_zpse6e84354.jpg

am I dumb? lol .... why is the angle there on the body? this confused me more

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am I dumb? lol .... why is the angle there on the body? this confused me more

 

 

lol

 

funny-facepalm-meme-computer.jpg

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am I dumb? lol .... why is the angle there on the body? this confused me more

 

 

lol

 

funny-facepalm-meme-computer.jpg

lmao

 

 

EClarkPhoto-_zpse6e84354.jpg

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Ha, I wear a 15+ . Not going to be easy to fit things in either location and have you still drive.

Add to that the questions regarding processing and I think you are jumping in a bit over your head if you think you can get horns and pro audio mids to work nicely. It is far from trivial to do so.

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EClarkPhoto-_zpse6e84354.jpg

 

Yes.

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