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midnightE39

Can't decide, SSD12 or 15.

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So I just sold my 2 Kicker 07CVR12's.

 

I'd always heard that 10 and 12 inch subs sounded cleaner, and that they would hit the higher bass range (60-90hz) much better than a 15 or an 18.

 

After a lot of reading here on this site, my conclusion is that this is only the case with much cheaper "entry level" drivers where the manufacturer just attaches a larger cone to a low powered motor for easy SPL gain.  With a subwoofer such as the SSD15, would there be very good frequency response all through the sub-bass range? My new understanding is that the only difference between a ssd12 and an ssd15, provided they are both "stock" is that the 15 inch driver will be slightly more responsive to less power because of it's higher sensitivity.

 

my kicker CVR12s were in a ported box tuned @ 40hz. I want a much smoother, flatter response than I had with them. So i've been thinking about getting an SSD15 in a sealed enclosure with the High-QTS option. I suppose I would go about 2 cubic ft before subtracting the subwoofer displacement. So about 1.8 cu ft sealed. Given this application, what kind of results should I expect? Wider/smoother/tighter frequency response and better SQ? More SPL? The 2 CVR 12s together have a rating of 800RMS, which puts the two of them not that far behind the SSD in RMS power, but as I have been lead to believe based on other parameters...the SSD15 @1000+ RMS is simply a completely different animal and it will absolutely annihilate the CVRs in every aspect.

 

I listen to many different kinds of music, and want a more SQ oriented setup than i've had, so that's why I'm leaning towards sealed. Of course I could also go ported (as I'm sure many of you will suggest), and I have the room to do so. I just want to be sure if I go with a 15" that it will have plenty of loud, clear, and clean output between 30-90hz. 

 

I'll either be putting it on a Hifonics BRZ1700.1D (I keep hearing that the BRZ series is the only one worth a damn) or this Hifonics GLX1400.1D (I haven't heard much of anything about it, but it is CEA2006 compliant.)

 

Any input/advice is greatly appreciated!

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How much room do you have? If you have enough room get the 15 an tune ~33hz.

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It's in the trunk of a 01 BMW 525i. so I have room. the kickers were in a 36w x 14h x 16d. But the point is I don't want a peaky response like I've had, and I want to hit those higher bass notes just as well as the low ones. I've heard if I go ported and tune low that It will have more output and have nearly as much accuracy as a sealed box, but just based on what i've been told, a 15 will be lacking in the 65-90 hz range if it is not sealed.

Is that simply just not true with a sub like the SSD? I want to hear that deep impact bass from drum & bass, dubstep and hip hop and still be able to have tight musical bass when i listen to music with a bass guitar and fast drums.

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Should I go Sub up port back? I often see this configuration with high performance 15s. What are the advantages? is it just a way to fit the subwoofer into a smaller trunk? I've got room to mount it sub back if it gives better sound? and was wondering if I should face the port straight into the cabin, through the space in between the backseats when i put the armwrest down. I was thinking if I got ported I'd tune really low, like 30-32hz. with around 3.5 cubes after subwoofer displacement. thoughts?

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If I am correct, higher bass notes should come from your midrange and mid bass woofers. Perhaps that area needs attention. If your bass response is peaky, you can e.q. out the bass.

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Always go bigger if it fits with the proper enclosure. 15"s all day!!!

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I believe you're thinking of Midbass, which is in the 120-250hz range. Sub bass is defined generally as between 20 and 90 hz

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Always go bigger if it fits with the proper enclosure. 15"s all day!!!

Why, exactly is bigger always better? Other than the obvious point of them being louder.

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Always go bigger if it fits with the proper enclosure. 15"s all day!!!

Why, exactly is bigger always better? Other than the obvious point of them being louder.

Less cone movement to achieve the same volume.

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<p>Ok well let me put it this way, are there any advantages a 10 inch subwoofer would have over a 15 inch subwoofer, assuming all other specifications are identical and each are in their optimal enclosures?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>EDIT: Excluding, of course, the difference in specifications that exist only because of the different size of the cone. I just want to know if an SSD15, ported in a medium-large sized box tuned @ 31hz is going to have good output in the upper sub bass frequencies between 60-90 hz. I don't want to get it if it's only going to "boom" and not "buzz", if you know what i mean. Will it's SQ and SPL performance be better than my 2 kicker CVR12s ported @ 40hz in EVERY way?</p>

Edited by midnightE39

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Go with 15 if you can afford it. If not, go 12. If you can't do that, go 10.

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i'm sure I can fit a single 15 into the trunk of a 5 series. but can someone answer my previous inquiry along with this one: "Should I go Sub up port back? I often see this configuration with high performance 15s. What are the advantages? is it just a way to fit the subwoofer into a smaller trunk? I've got room to mount it sub back if it gives better sound? and was wondering if I should face the port straight into the cabin, through the space in between the backseats when i put the armwrest down. I was thinking if I got ported I'd tune really low, like 30-32hz. with around 3.5 cubes after subwoofer displacement. thoughts?"

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The only benefit of a 10 vs a 15 would be that it requires less room.

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Dude, you're worrying WAY too much about it.  That 15 will outperform what you're used to right now in every aspect.  It will not suffer any significant amount in the upper bass range putting it in a ported enlcosure tuned to ~32hz.  Hell, there's a member on here who went from a pair of 10" Alpine Type X subs to a single Fi BTL 18 and noted not just the expected gain in output but the fact the bass was tighter, had more range, and was smoother across the board.

 

If you have room to put it in a ported enclosure, do so, you won't regret it.  If you can't fit a "proper" ported enlcosure in the trunk of that car then it won't hurt a damn thing putting it in a sealed enlcosure.

 

Buy the 15 and be very happy!

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what do you think of pointing the sub's cone directly into the cabin, positioned just in front of the opening in the middle of the backseat. with the port fired to the rear. 

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I don't think it's a good idea.  Typically with a trunk there's two configurations that work well.  First, and my personal favorite way to do it, is to build the enclosure sub and port firing forward and seal the enclosure in the front of the trunk to the cabin of the car.  It helps to prevent trunk rattle and gives an overall better sound in my personal opinion.  The second is much more general and is basically to fire the sub up or rearward with the port rear or to the side.  Typically firing forward without sealing to the cabin, or removing the back seat, doesn't yield the best results.  It comes down to how much time, trouble, and modifications you're willing to do to your car as to which way you go about doing this.  Sealing to the cabin will require planning, some special fabrication, and modifications of some type to the car.  The other way you simply pick which orientation works out the best for your trunk shape and size and slide the enclosure in.

 

Again, if you're planning on going ported, unless you have more experience and skills than it seems you do to be able to build an enclosure in the trunk of the car be certain you know it will fit.  Build a mock up enclosure from cardboard the same dimensions as the sub's enclosure to check and verify it will slide in and out.  If you want to seal to the cabin that same cardboard facsimile can be used to help make sure that everything is built just right.

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Ok. I'm certain that the subwoofer will fit in my trunk in an enclosure in the neighborhood of 3-4 cubes. I want the absolute best SQ a ported enclosure can provide. Should I try to tune right at 30hz? maybe just the 33hz as recommended? I can go no wider than 33", no taller than 15", and as long as those two dimensions remain constant or less, then I can use all the depth I need. Already decided it's gonna be port back sup up. but If there's any reason why I should fire the sub back or in any direction other than straight up, I believe I may be able to accommodate a little more height in the box. otherwise if its all the same, Sub up, Port back?

Edit: Just put in the order for SSD15. Standard options. Since my battery is in the trunk (BMW) and the power/ground cables won't have very far to go, will 6 gauge wiring be sufficient? I dont intend to put more than 1000w RMS to the sub. and daily it will probably see half that. Battery is brand new, 1100 amps. I'm gonna use some extra 8 gauge wire I have to wire the sub. Unless there's a good reason not to?

Edited by midnightE39

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8 awg is fine for the sub but I think you should step up to 4 or even 2 awg for power and grounds.

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well the cable is less than 2 feet from the battery. ground just goes onto the negative terminal. shouldnt that length of 6awg be able to deliver ample current for this application?

 

 

h12cblchrt-o_large.jpeg

 

going by this chart from crutchfield shouldn't i be right on the money?

 

also is there any benefit to grounding the amp on the negative terminal of the battery or is it just convenient if you already have a battery in the trunk?

Edited by midnightE39

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bump 

 

well the cable is less than 2 feet from the battery. ground just goes onto the negative terminal. shouldnt that length of 6awg be able to deliver ample current for this application?

 

 

h12cblchrt-o_large.jpeg

 

going by this chart from crutchfield shouldn't i be right on the money?

 

also is there any benefit to grounding the amp on the negative terminal of the battery or is it just convenient if you already have a battery in the trunk?

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