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TheTechnician

RLs-15's for HT, and music

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Well the edges will be a project in themselves. I will post the pics, but its gonna be a couple months till I have time to make the edging. I posted some more pics, and am still waiting for shon at RoE to post the excursion vid.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i211/The...56/159027a5.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i211/The...56/573316fc.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i211/The...56/7f875447.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i211/The...56/352fcff4.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i211/The...56/99034d9a.jpg

I feel kinda retarded for it, but I still don't know how to make it linkable. :stupid:

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using the url's you posted above, you simply add the img tags. or use the regular reply button and above the text area is a few buttons. one is labeled "IMG", click that button, insert your url and that's it!!

nice cabinet btw!!

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:

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Is that Oak plywood, solid oak bracking, with some sort of cherry stain?? Or am I just completely wrong....

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very attractive

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I got an awesome deal on something called fibercore, which I guess is mdf with red oak veneer on both sides. All the bracing is solid oak though including each edge of the cube where the ends come together so it doesn't fall apart. I was wondering though if any of you have experience with bracing cabinets for woofers this powerful. Should I have braced it more than that? I may make a more braced test cabinet to test with. I would have used more bracing, but the guy whose shop I was using (he's a professional cabinet maker) was like "man, you don't even need to brace that cabinet".

The stain is red oak color by Minwax, two coats, and 3 coats of spar urethane by minwax.

Oh yeah, they posted my excursion vid on ROE, I don't think I really captured it as well as I could but its not bad.

http://realmofexcursion.com/videos/SoundSplinter/rls15.3.wmv :woot:

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Use the motto of engineers... "When in doubt, Build it Stout."

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I got an awesome deal on something called fibercore, which I guess is mdf with red oak veneer on both sides.
Edited by 7

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sweet vid, and it looks like you were barely working them,

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Ok, I finally got to play around with the test tones today and I have some questions. I seem to get that insane 3 to 4 inch excursion when I play 20hz, then less with 30hz, and drastically less as I go up from there. Now my amps clip SEVERELY and very audibly when I try and raise the volume on the 40hz clips and up, maybe 15mm excursion max(visually estimated). They seem to be capable of much more sound output at 40hz and up. Also, when playing the 20hz tone, they go full tilt with no clipping. So, I am guessing this is an amplifier related thing right? I was thinking of going with a better brand with more power for the amps. Don't get me wrong, the output is incredibly loud anyway, but I can't tell if I'm getting all these babys are capable of at the frequencies above 30hz.

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maybe more current is needed or the subs need more power, not sure

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Your running an EP2500 right? If that isn't enough power.... Dang. You checked to see if you have filters set right (switches on the back)?

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Nope, the filter switches aren't on, but when I first tested them free-air I had them on. Man talk about frustration, after I had the cabinets assembled, I figured out that the filter switch is backwards from the others, you have to push it to the right to turn it off, everything else is off when its to the left. I wasn't seeing too much movement freeair, but I had the filter on then and it was cutting off at 50hz. Mike told me he got it to full excursion with 600 watts free-air. Like I said, it reaches full excursion at super low frequency(20hz sine wave) but as you go higher it get much harder to get near that, plus the higher frequencies are making the amp clip at higher volumes, it doesn't clip at 20hz very easily. I don't know, but I wondered if maybe the ep2500 doesn't put out the wattage it claims or maybe I don't know what I'm talking about. Should I not expect to see more than say, 25mm movement at 50hz? Maybe this is clearer.... does it take more wattage to see a driver move 25mm at 50hz than to move 25mm at 20hz. If so then I think I need more power to make this thing perform as it is truly capable.

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That seems a bit weird

Almost peak excursion at 20hz

But when you go higher up its less.

Good ole sealed

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For the record the EP2500's are not 2400watts rms, they are 2400 peak. If even that.

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i would suspect thoes things have massiv induction so as frequincy goes up so does impeadance, you try ty to drive the volume up and the voltage clips :)

my geuss.

awsome set up, real subwoofers dont go above 40Hz anyway ;)

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Where do you find the data on teh 2400w peak? All I've found in my manual and online is 2400w @4ohm at 1khz

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Maybe impedance rise is just really killing the power output

If they're sealed and playing music, I highly doubt it's impedance rise...

But time on an AC RMS clamp meter would be the only way to tell for sure.

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Well I called Behringer and talked to tech support about it while I was freeair testing them. I guess they didn't directly verify 2400w@lower frequencies, but they thought the amp should be a good mate for the rls. I think they did say 1200rms, but I just don't think so. I'm gonna get something really powerful in a couple months or so, maybe a crown. Until then, these things still rock.

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More power...augh augh augh / tim allen grunt

:+1::+1:

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I'm thinking that I might wind up poping fuses all the time even if I only use one 15rls with my Tapco J2500 (supposed to be 2500wrms at 4ohms)

Your 2500 watt rms is the rating of the secondary side of the amplifier. Look at the name plate rating on the rear of the amp and where it tells you 120 v, 60 cycles, it should give you "amps" or "watts" That is the number you need to be concerned with, your actual current draw. If the primary load is 1500 Watts divide number that by the voltage of 120, and you will get the total amp draw of 12.5 amps.

Anyone know how to figure out how much your outlets can take withouut giving out? other than buyying a huge inefficient sub and trying it.

Your standard household receptacles are rated at 120v at 15 amps. Go to Home Depot and buy a commercial grade "120V" "20 amp" receptacle. It is an identical replacement with an extra sideways slot (unused). If you really want to get fancy, go to a electrical wholesale supplier and by a 20 amp hospital grade receptacle for the premium contacts and service. Make sure you have #12 (gauge) wiring for your 20 amp circuit and breaker. #14 guage is only good for 15 amps, max! DON'T STICK IN A BIGGER BREAKER ON A #14 WIRE!!!!

I'm running a high current Rotel 1065 with some other misc equipment, and also have two of the QSC 1450 amps bridged together for each of the subwoofer drivers in my sub, so I needed more electricity. I pulled two more dedicated circuits for the amps. Before, my recessed lights were dancing/dimming to the music in the living room with just one QSC. Not a good thing.

If you are running a 2500 watt amplifier, the output voltage of the speaker wires may reach up to 100 volts, so be careful in the routing of your speaker wiring through paneling, walls, and combustible materials. You will need to conform to NEC 2005. Read your manual carefully!

Have fun,

Mike Cason :D

Edited by mfishmike

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