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i do not know if this is the right section for this, i was wondering if you would see any voltage increase in creating a heatshield or putting sound deadening around it to keep it a few degrees cooler

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No. If your voltage sucks you probably need an aftermarket HO alt that has a case designed for the extra heat dissipation.

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okay and one other question does heat shield material help with a lead acid battery like it does for an agm.

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That I do not know. I'm skeptical about it making enough of a difference to notice any change in voltage, but it might lengthen the battery's lifespan. :shrugs:

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i have left over dynamat and just curiousity struck the cat in me so ask if it would make any difference i have an agm in the back and might upgrade the front to an agm and i had a swelling issue before with the agm under the hood it was a duralast platinum 34r and could not figure out why til i looked into it and found it is normal for agms to swell with anything greater then 130F and the engine idles between 150 to 180F.

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The heatshield won't help with either issue.   Cooling the alternator can indeed increase it's lifespan though.

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if the heatshield will not work then why is voltage going down as heat start to drop the voltage

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i have left over dynamat and just curiousity struck the cat in me so ask if it would make any difference i have an agm in the back and might upgrade the front to an agm and i had a swelling issue before with the agm under the hood it was a duralast platinum 34r and could not figure out why til i looked into it and found it is normal for agms to swell with anything greater then 130F and the engine idles between 150 to 180F.

 

You made this sound like all vehicles will have problems with agms under the hood.

 

Is that your intention to imply this?

 

If so, that's false by far.

 

What IS the problem is not taking into account the ambient temperature around the battery to the required charging voltage the battery needs at that time.

 

PCM controlled alternators are GREAT for things like this because they adjust charging voltage with temperature.

 

I specifically got my DC Power alt to run at 13.8v hot to prevent such issues as i run agm under the hood for YEARS and never have had an issue.

 

It's the relationship of charge voltage to temperature, not just temperature.

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if the heatshield will not work then why is voltage going down as heat start to drop the voltage

Heat shield won't reduce temperature enough--most likely.

Edited by ssh

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The heatshield will only help to block direct heat.  Underhood there is so much IN-direct heat, that the heatshield is pointless.  Shit gets hot, efficiency drops, and failure starts to creep in.

 

We are machines too and get fatigued and less productive as heat and duration increase. 

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then how would i go about to try and not have my battery bulge under the hood

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I have to say that I also wondered if my alternator would benefit from a heat shield but only because the alternator is mounted right next to the exhaust header. 

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then how would i go about to try and not have my battery bulge under the hood

 

My posts must be invisible... 

 

Lower your charge voltage.

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I have to say that I also wondered if my alternator would benefit from a heat shield but only because the alternator is mounted right next to the exhaust header. 

Wrap your headers with kevlar header wrap. They sell it through Summit Racing for a fairly cheap price

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I'm not having voltage problems was just a thought about reducing some heat around that area but thank you for the advice.

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I'm not having voltage problems was just a thought about reducing some heat around that area but thank you for the advice.

heat like that can kill your alternator faster if or is indeed close to the header or manifold.

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@shizzon the charge voltage is remaining at 13.8 when driving and 14.34 on a cold morning start and then it drops to 13.6 or 13.7 when idle that is having a lead acid in the front and the duralast platinum 34r in the back before the duralast would swell up since the hot air from the fan would make it bulge but not putting it in the back it is back to normal shape and resting voltage with car at idle is only .02v off from the front battery. before it would idk about 13.3 to 13.4 when the agm was under the hood and bulged.

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