1 X10 Vs 2 SA-8 V.2 on 1000w RMS

[sabydady 0]

Push any sub beyond it's limits and you will cause damage.

I agree; thats precisely why I want to know this sub limits.

[altoncustomtech 773]

Push any sub beyond it's limits and you will cause damage.

I agree; thats precisely why I want to know this sub limits.

 

 

You're asking a loaded question though.  Whether or not the sub can take 20hz at full power depends completely and totally on the enclosure design.  Every driver has a rated xmax and aside from testing the only way to see that you don't exceed it at a given frequency is to model it.  Keep in mind that EVERY change you make to an enclosure alignment compromises something else it does.  Making an enclosure that allows full power handling at 20hz would likely kill it's response on the upper bass frequencies, or kill power handling at those frequencies, or simply hinder the output capabilities.  

 

The next question is why the hell are you worried about what it can do at 20hz?  Unless you're using it for home theater you'll never REALLY have a need to play it that low in the first place.  Music, even edited music, just doesn't go that low.  On top of that you're modeling the enclosure as being tuned at 35hz per your original post.  No matter what sub you choose it's going to unload below that and get destroyed in a big hurry.

[sabydady 0]

Push any sub beyond it's limits and you will cause damage.

I agree; thats precisely why I want to know this sub limits.

 

 

You're asking a loaded question though.  Whether or not the sub can take 20hz at full power depends completely and totally on the enclosure design.  Every driver has a rated xmax and aside from testing the only way to see that you don't exceed it at a given frequency is to model it.  Keep in mind that EVERY change you make to an enclosure alignment compromises something else it does.  Making an enclosure that allows full power handling at 20hz would likely kill it's response on the upper bass frequencies, or kill power handling at those frequencies, or simply hinder the output capabilities.  

 

The next question is why the hell are you worried about what it can do at 20hz?  Unless you're using it for home theater you'll never REALLY have a need to play it that low in the first place.  Music, even edited music, just doesn't go that low.  On top of that you're modeling the enclosure as being tuned at 35hz per your original post.  No matter what sub you choose it's going to unload below that and get destroyed in a big hurry.

The reason I am asking is directly related to the fact that I will be tuning the enclosure at 35hz, so at 20hz it will be practically free air however I wont have a subsonic filter to avoid damage on low frequencies so if a certain song happens to have a 20hz tone at some point I dont want to worry about any damage to the speaker. The sub will have 1000w rms; and Ive had other subs in the past that handled more than 1000w rms on free air without bottoming out. I just want to see if someone has pushed this sub to those limits.

[altoncustomtech 773]

 

 

Push any sub beyond it's limits and you will cause damage.

I agree; thats precisely why I want to know this sub limits.

 

 

You're asking a loaded question though.  Whether or not the sub can take 20hz at full power depends completely and totally on the enclosure design.  Every driver has a rated xmax and aside from testing the only way to see that you don't exceed it at a given frequency is to model it.  Keep in mind that EVERY change you make to an enclosure alignment compromises something else it does.  Making an enclosure that allows full power handling at 20hz would likely kill it's response on the upper bass frequencies, or kill power handling at those frequencies, or simply hinder the output capabilities.  

 

The next question is why the hell are you worried about what it can do at 20hz?  Unless you're using it for home theater you'll never REALLY have a need to play it that low in the first place.  Music, even edited music, just doesn't go that low.  On top of that you're modeling the enclosure as being tuned at 35hz per your original post.  No matter what sub you choose it's going to unload below that and get destroyed in a big hurry.

The reason I am asking is directly related to the fact that I will be tuning the enclosure at 35hz, so at 20hz it will be practically free air however I wont have a subsonic filter to avoid damage on low frequencies so if a certain song happens to have a 20hz tone at some point I dont want to worry about any damage to the speaker. The sub will have 1000w rms; and Ive had other subs in the past that handled more than 1000w rms on free air without bottoming out. I just want to see if someone has pushed this sub to those limits.

 

 

I have to call complete and total BS on that one.  First of all you don't have any idea how much power you were really applying to those drivers, you didn't measure it.  Even if you did the results would be dubious at best.  Second, even if the sub were to take the power without bottoming out I guarantee you're stressing the spiders and surround so badly that it won't last long doing that to it.  

 

If you don't have a sub sonic filter on the amp then buy one, at least something like a Harrison Labs FMOD.  You should not run a ported enclosure without an SSF no matter what driver you're using.  Doing so is plain and simply asking for it to get damaged.

[pmureika 31]

 

 

Push any sub beyond it's limits and you will cause damage.

I agree; thats precisely why I want to know this sub limits.

 

 

You're asking a loaded question though.  Whether or not the sub can take 20hz at full power depends completely and totally on the enclosure design.  Every driver has a rated xmax and aside from testing the only way to see that you don't exceed it at a given frequency is to model it.  Keep in mind that EVERY change you make to an enclosure alignment compromises something else it does.  Making an enclosure that allows full power handling at 20hz would likely kill it's response on the upper bass frequencies, or kill power handling at those frequencies, or simply hinder the output capabilities.  

 

The next question is why the hell are you worried about what it can do at 20hz?  Unless you're using it for home theater you'll never REALLY have a need to play it that low in the first place.  Music, even edited music, just doesn't go that low.  On top of that you're modeling the enclosure as being tuned at 35hz per your original post.  No matter what sub you choose it's going to unload below that and get destroyed in a big hurry.

The reason I am asking is directly related to the fact that I will be tuning the enclosure at 35hz, so at 20hz it will be practically free air however I wont have a subsonic filter to avoid damage on low frequencies so if a certain song happens to have a 20hz tone at some point I dont want to worry about any damage to the speaker. The sub will have 1000w rms; and Ive had other subs in the past that handled more than 1000w rms on free air without bottoming out. I just want to see if someone has pushed this sub to those limits.

 

 

 

 

Push any sub beyond it's limits and you will cause damage.

I agree; thats precisely why I want to know this sub limits.

 

 

You're asking a loaded question though.  Whether or not the sub can take 20hz at full power depends completely and totally on the enclosure design.  Every driver has a rated xmax and aside from testing the only way to see that you don't exceed it at a given frequency is to model it.  Keep in mind that EVERY change you make to an enclosure alignment compromises something else it does.  Making an enclosure that allows full power handling at 20hz would likely kill it's response on the upper bass frequencies, or kill power handling at those frequencies, or simply hinder the output capabilities.  

 

The next question is why the hell are you worried about what it can do at 20hz?  Unless you're using it for home theater you'll never REALLY have a need to play it that low in the first place.  Music, even edited music, just doesn't go that low.  On top of that you're modeling the enclosure as being tuned at 35hz per your original post.  No matter what sub you choose it's going to unload below that and get destroyed in a big hurry.

The reason I am asking is directly related to the fact that I will be tuning the enclosure at 35hz, so at 20hz it will be practically free air however I wont have a subsonic filter to avoid damage on low frequencies so if a certain song happens to have a 20hz tone at some point I dont want to worry about any damage to the speaker. The sub will have 1000w rms; and Ive had other subs in the past that handled more than 1000w rms on free air without bottoming out. I just want to see if someone has pushed this sub to those limits.

 

 

I have to call complete and total BS on that one.  First of all you don't have any idea how much power you were really applying to those drivers, you didn't measure it.  Even if you did the results would be dubious at best.  Second, even if the sub were to take the power without bottoming out I guarantee you're stressing the spiders and surround so badly that it won't last long doing that to it.  

 

If you don't have a sub sonic filter on the amp then buy one, at least something like a Harrison Labs FMOD.  You should not run a ported enclosure without an SSF no matter what driver you're using.  Doing so is plain and simply asking for it to get damaged.

Thanks for the good reply Alton.

[tommydh 1]

Ok in my opinion with 1000 Watts RMS I'd go with the SA-8's simply bc the x-10  is 1250 RMS and in the little experience I've had with Sundown subs I'd look at 2k for that sub I was running 2 SD-2 10's now I'm running a single 10 on a RF T1000.bd at 2 ohms and its handling it very nicely. If you were able or willing to go to 1500 w I'd say x-10 but its only my opinion. Sorry to actually answer the question

[sabydady 0]

The harrison labs sound like a good option to avoid those frequencies. I'm just gonna ignore the whole other "Know it all" part of the answer.

[sabydady 0]

Ok in my opinion with 1000 Watts RMS I'd go with the SA-8's simply bc the x-10  is 1250 RMS and in the little experience I've had with Sundown subs I'd look at 2k for that sub I was running 2 SD-2 10's now I'm running a single 10 on a RF T1000.bd at 2 ohms and its handling it very nicely. If you were able or willing to go to 1500 w I'd say x-10 but its only my opinion. Sorry to actually answer the question

Thanks for the only straight forward no BS in the middle answer.

[pmureika 31]

He didn't answer the question if they could take the power you want to give them.

 

Without being damaged!

[Shogen 325]

I feel like you should get the sundown. If you get any SSA subwoofer and WHEN (not if) you cause damage to it, you'll come straight here and complain about how poor the product is. LOL!

[sabydady 0]

I feel like you should get the sundown. If you get any SSA subwoofer and WHEN (not if) you cause damage to it, you'll come straight here and complain about how poor the product is. LOL!

I've allways been very cautious on how I treat my subs, the only subs I have abused are those ment for it. I've had a lot of different setups and have never blown, broken or burnt a single one. I allways do take my subs near their limits so that I know up to what point they can handle the power. After being away from the hobbie for a couple of years I expected to find simple minded comments here but most of it has been people trying to prove their superior knowledge and disprove mine.

[neo_styles 43]

I feel like you should get the sundown. If you get any SSA subwoofer and WHEN (not if) you cause damage to it, you'll come straight here and complain about how poor the product is. LOL!

I've allways been very cautious on how I treat my subs, the only subs I have abused are those ment for it. I've had a lot of different setups and have never blown, broken or burnt a single one. I allways do take my subs near their limits so that I know up to what point they can handle the power. After being away from the hobbie for a couple of years I expected to find simple minded comments here but most of it has been people trying to prove their superior knowledge and disprove mine.

And an attitude like that is why you got the answers you did in the first place.

[///M5 2,833]

Ok in my opinion with 1000 Watts RMS I'd go with the SA-8's simply bc the x-10  is 1250 RMS and in the little experience I've had with Sundown subs I'd look at 2k for that sub I was running 2 SD-2 10's now I'm running a single 10 on a RF T1000.bd at 2 ohms and its handling it very nicely. If you were able or willing to go to 1500 w I'd say x-10 but its only my opinion. Sorry to actually answer the question

And watch them seriously puke and die below tuning.

OP, you NEED a sub-sonic. The questions you are asking are too rudimentary to think you can get by without one. If you had a better handle on what happened "perhaps" you could, but it really wouldn't be a good idea.

As for the comment on actually answering the question, that is a bit of crap as well. Anytime reading on the site including the terms of service you'd realize that versus threads aren't acceptable here and it is for a reason.

[sabydady 0]

I understand, I was completely unaware that Vs threads were not allowed. I just get pissed off when someone just tries to be a smart A.. responding with questions to a question or sarcastic answers. 

 

Look, if I ask do you think (X) sub handle 500w at 20hz in free air for 1 second the answers should be "I dont think so", "Probably Not", "Ive had this sub for longer than a second without issues" ; "Not recomended"  Answers shouldnt be "Why would you want to do that?" , "If you wanna do that buy (X) brand". It just sounds like politics instead of opinions.

 

Anyways, thanks for all the feedback bottom line it was somewhat helpful. I will probably be using a Subsonic filter to minimize any probability of damage since I do like to play Bass mekanik songs and other bass heavy songs while testing the system once installed. If I have any other questions regarding the subs I'll just leave out the Vs. part and focus on a single brand. 

 

BTW, whatever the case may be, I'll try to post pics of the install.

[///M5 2,833]

The vs is because it is never enlightening and no poster ever gives enough information to actually answer the question. In many case, it isn't even possible.

Same here, no one can answer can this sub handle Xwatts at 20Hz. Bottom line is it is ALWAYS a terrible idea and really shouldn't be at all part of your buying decision. If it is, then just by a 5000w sub for a 500w amp and have an inefficient pointless setup.