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Kinetik battery or alternator?

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question is if im runnning stock alt, big 3 done, and a freshly new crescendo bc2000d pushing a fi bl 15,at 1 ohm. if i get a kinetik battery would it solve dimming problems on a stock alt or should i cut my losses with that idea and save a bit more for my sweet 270 amp mechman alt.

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I would do battery first personally. That may be all you need, then of coarse get a alt because once the bug hits you will be buying bigger shit and so on and so on, lol

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x2 on battery first to see if that may be all you need. Replace the one under the hood and get one for the rear next.

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I'm gonna go the opposite route. It takes power to make power. If your amp is pulling more juice than your alternator can provide then your gonna be running around with a heavily taxed battery. Get the alternator first, then work on getting a larger battery.

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If he gets the alt first, he might over charge his current battery, and kill it. So, in my opinion, go with the battery, then down the line do the alt, that way, you have a proper battery pair with the alternator.

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If he gets the alt first, he might over charge his current battery, and kill it. So, in my opinion, go with the battery, then down the line do the alt, that way, you have a proper battery pair with the alternator.

That can be true, but hes driving a Mustang and not a Honda. His battery will be fine.

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If he gets the alt first, he might over charge his current battery, and kill it. So, in my opinion, go with the battery, then down the line do the alt, that way, you have a proper battery pair with the alternator.

A bigger alternator will not overcharge the current battery, the alternator only puts out the amount of power the load attached to it needs.

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Putting too much amperage into your battery can in fact burn out your battery. Whoever disliked my post better go do some research.

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If your alternator is putting out too much to your battery your battery needs to be charged via a charger and not an alternator. The battery's load dictates the alternators output to it and alternators really do not do very well recharging if the battery is much more than 20% discharged,

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I run a saz 1500v3 on 1 battery in the trunk and one under the hood. Big 3 and stock alt. with no issues. I don't think I'd run any more than that without getting a bigger alt.

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If your alternator is putting out too much to your battery your battery needs to be charged via a charger and not an alternator. The battery's load dictates the alternators output to it and alternators really do not do very well recharging if the battery is much more than 20% discharged,

Wait, what? A batteries load does not tell what the alternator should do. If you have a 250a alt it will push that 250a into the battery no matter how charged your battery is.

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If your alternator is putting out too much to your battery your battery needs to be charged via a charger and not an alternator. The battery's load dictates the alternators output to it and alternators really do not do very well recharging if the battery is much more than 20% discharged,

Wait, what? A batteries load does not tell what the alternator should do. If you have a 250a alt it will push that 250a into the battery no matter how charged your battery is.
An alternator only supplies enough current (within it's limits) to keep it's target voltage constant--adhering to Ohm's law.

So an alternator rated for 250amps is not going supply 250amps constantly unless their is an electrical device installed that requires 250a. It should also be noted that engine rpm / alternator rpm can affect output, but that's getting off point.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

Edited by ssh

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If your alternator is putting out too much to your battery your battery needs to be charged via a charger and not an alternator. The battery's load dictates the alternators output to it and alternators really do not do very well recharging if the battery is much more than 20% discharged,

Wait, what? A batteries load does not tell what the alternator should do. If you have a 250a alt it will push that 250a into the battery no matter how charged your battery is.
An alternator only supplies enough current (within it's limits) to keep it's target voltage constant--adhering to Ohm's law.

So an alternator rated for 250amps is not going supply 250amps constantly unless their is an electrical device installed that requires 250a. It should also be noted that engine rpm / alternator rpm can affect output, but that's getting off point.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

An alternator is a dumb device. If your at the rpm range where the 250a alternator puts out 250a it will do so. Maybe I have to go back and read as well, but that's what I have always known

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An alternator is a dumb device. If your at the rpm range where the 250a alternator puts out 250a it will do so. Maybe I have to go back and read as well, but that's what I have always known

An alternator outputs current based on demand to maintain adequate system voltage. This is why your lights might dim when you suddenly increase current demand (turn AC on full blast, etc)...there is a bit of a lag between when the current is demanded and when the alternator can supply the additional current. Besides starting the car, this is what the battery is for...to supply the additional current needed during these sudden increases before the alt picks up the slack.

Think about it logically....if there was only 100A of demand but the alt was producing 250A....where would the additional 150A of current "go"? Think of it this way.....current isn't just produced, it is drawn by the load. There has to be a demand for the current, which is based on the load and voltage.

Simple test. Get a clamp meter and put it on your alt cable. Start the car with all accessories off and then gradually start adding loads by turning on accessories.

agreed

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