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Heisenberg

Heisenberg "Impaler" Build Log (Soundqubed, Rockford Fosgate,

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Impaler because its an Impala. Im clever right?

 

002_zps27f8709a.jpg

 

first box mocked up:

1039968_209864502500462_106704481_o_zps8

 

First day the subs came in: 

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Speakers came in:

 

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Subs amp:

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6011975c-c8e3-4202-9687-f7d6727dbb8f_zpsBoth my amp's

029_zpsaef1b58a.jpg

 

Current box is fiberglassed and use's T nuts to pull the subs in and out. Not designed by me. (g2shuck)

 

Subs are: D4 Alpine type S 15's

Rockford P-500.4 amp on 4 gauge 

Q1-3500.1 (4,300 watts rms at 1 ohm) on two runs of 0 gauge. Wired to 4 ohms

All power wire, and Rca's by Knuconcepz.

Stock alternator.

Stock Effing headunit for the moment.

 

Coming soon are: Deck, odds and ends wiring, and more 6.5's 

 

Stay tuned.

Edited by Heisenberg

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I like where this is going.

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Great pics man

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Were those speakers 6x9s on the left in the pic? You should just sell those and have no 6x9s in place. Also more 6.5s? Are you adding those to the rear?

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Were those speakers 6x9s on the left in the pic? You should just sell those and have no 6x9s in place. Also more 6.5s? Are you adding those to the rear?

They are 6x9's.

 

The additional 6.5's will go in an enclousure where the center console would go normally, as there is none in these cars.

 

then 6.5's in the front door.

6x9's in the rear deck.

 

Please, do explain.

Edited by Heisenberg

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Not sure if adding the 6.5s to the center console is good or not but I do know that if you're having subs it's not a good idea to add 6x9s. The bass from the subs can and sometimes do damage the speakers because they are the most fragile out of things flexing in the trunk. Also the bass from 6x9s won't even be heard because the sub is better for that.

Hold on let me find the thread that was going around and proves what I'm saying.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/61266-2-icons-and-6x9s/ here ya go!

Edited by Bassink

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Thats good info. So the car needs midbass though and I don't want to make new door panels at the moment. So I thought building a center console would serve me weel.  the floor of these cars have oceans of space.

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You have a good 4 channel amp. You should do a good active setup and only use speakers in the doors. 2 6.5s and 2 tweeters. Sell the 6x9s for sure, waste of money for your situation.

This is what I'm doing. I'm doing an active setup in my next car.

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Pictures I took a few min ago, just for you guys. to show the car im building.

 

007_zpsc4046601.jpg

014_zpsc57f1252.jpg006_zpsdad20d44.jpg003_zpsf947a4b2.jpg004_zps04c2c906.jpg011_zpsf4e5e858.jpg012_zps6e30e748.jpg013_zps8fe011fc.jpg005_zpsa95a10f2.jpg008_zpscc2e0606.jpg010_zps26dcc3af.jpg009_zpsf3cad273.jpg

 

Pardon the mess

Watch what I do with this.

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Looks good man. As big as that box is why not turn it around and seal off the trunk from the cabin.

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Box was built inside the car in that orientation , so I cant really play with it much besides pulling it closer or farther away from the rear seats. I will rebuild before spring break nationals but I built that box like 2 months ago and Im not quite ready to saw it in half.

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The console idea is not going to benefit you at all. If you are throwing away your stage and only interested in adding midbass do it in the rear doors or rear. WAY better. And then use DEDICATED midbasses to do it.

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The console idea is not going to benefit you at all. If you are throwing away your stage and only interested in adding midbass do it in the rear doors or rear. WAY better. And then use DEDICATED midbasses to do it.

Throwing away my stage? Why not drop the 6.5's and 6x9's in their factory spot and have the rear seats down, to avoid the "compression" problem.

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The console idea is not going to benefit you at all. If you are throwing away your stage and only interested in adding midbass do it in the rear doors or rear. WAY better. And then use DEDICATED midbasses to do it.

Throwing away my stage? Why not drop the 6.5's and 6x9's in their factory spot and have the rear seats down, to avoid the "compression" problem.
Anytime you have more than one driver playing the same frequency you destroy your stage. 6.5 and 6x9 components are far from ideal midbasses and using them as such doesn't make sense.

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I was concerned with eliminating the 6x9's and thought it wouldn't leave any midbass behind.

 

 But on that mids and highs amp, I feel like there's a chance that the 4 factory spots could keep up. and then in rebuild season, adding a dedicated two channel and two sets of silk dome tweeters up front is a possibility. but that's why i'm on here. learning, and gathering ideas

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As with most things in life, keep it simple is best way to go with audio. The less drivers in a system, the less cancelation and phase issues created.

If you feel that you are lacking in midbass, change your midbass driver. In all reality you should only need 1 tweeter and one midbass per side. What speakers are you currently running? Actively or passive crossovers?

Also what is your sub crossed over at high and low?

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As with most things in life, keep it simple is best way to go with audio. The less drivers in a system, the less cancelation and phase issues created.

If you feel that you are lacking in midbass, change your midbass driver. In all reality you should only need 1 tweeter and one midbass per side. What speakers are you currently running? Actively or passive crossovers?

Also what is your sub crossed over at high and low?

A set of alpine(the new one's)-type S 6.5's and a set of type S-6x9's  actively crossed over on an RF punch 500.4 

 

(Wouldn't have bought them if I knew alpine switched to a plastic "basket/frame" rather than metal, used to own the old metal basket one's and they were better)

 

Blown away by the sound quality though, especially for the money.

Edited by Heisenberg

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I think it's time for a better front sound stage. Ditch the coaxial fronts for sseparates, a tweeter and woofer.

The only other quick solution would be to bridge the amp on your fronts and run the rear fill off of the head unit for power.

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I was concerned with eliminating the 6x9's and thought it wouldn't leave any midbass behind.

 

 But on that mids and highs amp, I feel like there's a chance that the 4 factory spots could keep up. and then in rebuild season, adding a dedicated two channel and two sets of silk dome tweeters up front is a possibility. but that's why i'm on here. learning, and gathering ideas

4 factory spots won't keep up better than 2. And they will sound WAY worse trying. It is never a solution to keep throwing drivers at, but instead shop smart.

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So some options:

 

#1 option

Alpine CDE-HD148BT

$210 

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_66676_Alpine-CDE-HD148BT.html

 

cdehd148bt_zpscdc83323.jpg

 

 

Option #2:

Alpine CDE-149BT

$250

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_68903_Alpine-CDE-HD149BT.html

cdehd149bt_zps97fe7372.jpg

 

Option #3:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS

$280

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_43523_Pioneer-DEH-80PRS.html

 

deh80prs_zps4c8574cf.jpg

 

 

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So im basically between these three.. Looking for suggestions though.

 

Thanks everyone

Edited by Heisenberg

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I f you ever want to run active the last one would be my choice!

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Also, Some ridiculousness just for everyone that's taking the time.

 

DC 10k

10kGuts_zps650afd02.jpg

DC 5k (I think)

CIMG2330_zps798283cf.jpg

 

AQ3500.1 love...

 

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Have to love the Saz-5000

5000D_002_SSA__26902138262274512801280_z

 

AQ 20k

 

aq20k_zps1680bcb4.jpg

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Would shoot a baby deer in the mouth in front of 5 children for this amplifier.

 

T2500-1BDCP_1_l_zpse3126e32.jpg

Edited by Heisenberg

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