Tirefryr 1,742 Posted December 29, 2013 what? i know what the issue is.... i need a head job. ryan, so you know why the left head always goes bad? what about that side, makes 6 7 or 8 go thru valves ? seems how im redoing both heads.. i would like to prevent needing to do it again ! I don't know what the issue was with yours. I know some have had coolant issues as the flow stops at the back of the head and air can get trapped back there or crap built up. If you search any forum that has modular-powered vehicles, you will find hundreds of threads about head coolant mods. 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jonbearsmt 919 Posted December 29, 2013 ok will do , my exhaust valve is not sealing on #7 .... i googled a bit but all i got were the super common issues , plugs shooting out or dropping in.. and apparently i need to run a OEM oil filter, and thin oil 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tirefryr 1,742 Posted December 29, 2013 ok will do , my exhaust valve is not sealing on #7 .... i googled a bit but all i got were the super common issues , plugs shooting out or dropping in.. and apparently i need to run a OEM oil filter, and thin oil I've run Mobil, Amsoil, and MC filters with no issue. Filters shouldn't cause any issue. 5W20 will work and should be what's OEM. Sounds like you got one that was abused. I'd like to see what the head looks like once the cam cover is removed. I'm betting there's some sludge in there or once was. 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jonbearsmt 919 Posted December 29, 2013 i hope not! yeah everyone is talking about using 0 20 or 0 30 ... im shocked i have always ran thicker oil in all my 4.6's from what i read cheap filter 1 can collapse, and two dont have a leak down and leave the top end dry.... i have also read i need to flash the computer and advance the timing 3 degrees 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tirefryr 1,742 Posted December 29, 2013 Never heard of that and in my experience, they keep a lot of oil in the heads. If anything, they starve the bottom end. Kind of odd you are reading exactly the opposite of all the experience I have had. I've run 5W20 in every modular I've owned, both SOHC and DOHC and one was boosted, another nitrous injected and I have had no issues. I run the same oil and an Amsoil filter in my Mark, and Mobil filter and oil in my truck. My dad has run MC oil and filters in all their mods, but only because he gets the stuff dirt cheap. I am very hard on my performance vehicles also, so they don't get babied. 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jonbearsmt 919 Posted December 29, 2013 shit man .. thats the thing about the skinnernet is conflicting info ... i guess i need to change the oil.. cause it had 0/30 in it.. then i added like a quart of lucas motor restore shit.. made my oil thick because i had chatter... 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jonbearsmt 919 Posted January 2, 2014 what set should i get? i know the 279 comes with a pump and gears... but its cheaper for just the chain and guides i would hate to install a shitty pump that will only fail. http://www.ebay.com/itm/360716072933?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/390624904980?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tirefryr 1,742 Posted January 2, 2014 Personally, I would not use anything other than Motorcraft parts. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pmureika 31 Posted January 2, 2014 Personally, I would not use anything other than Motorcraft parts.So what you are saying is that all after market parts are inferior. 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tirefryr 1,742 Posted January 2, 2014 No, I would have typed that if that's what I wanted to state. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pmureika 31 Posted January 2, 2014 (edited) Tirefryr, on 02 Jan 2014 - 13:55, said:No, I would have typed that if that's what I wanted to state.Then why motorcraft which is not owned by ford?I was thinking old school autolite is no longer ford owned. Edited January 2, 2014 by pmureika 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coobies5 43 Posted January 2, 2014 Motorcraft parts only, don't want to have to tear it down and replace it again! Also, if you do new guides and tensioners, don't get the plastic tensioners stick with the steel ones. I just bought new cloyes guides and re-used my original tensioners. 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tirefryr 1,742 Posted January 2, 2014 Tirefryr, on 02 Jan 2014 - 13:55, said:No, I would have typed that if that's what I wanted to state.Then why motorcraft which is not owned by ford?I was thinking old school autolite is no longer ford owned.Because I know what works and what doesn't. Do it right the first time. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jonbearsmt 919 Posted January 2, 2014 well ford wanted WAAAYY Too much .. so i got this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/360716067815?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648 not sure what kind of tentioners they are.. maybe you could let me know 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pmureika 31 Posted January 3, 2014 Tirefryr, on 02 Jan 2014 - 13:55, said:No, I would have typed that if that's what I wanted to state.Then why motorcraft which is not owned by ford?I was thinking old school autolite is no longer ford owned.Because I know what works and what doesn't. Do it right the first time.Half of the problem is the install just like in car audio. But I would at least use top brands from local parts stores. Not ones off the internet. -1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pmureika 31 Posted January 3, 2014 well ford wanted WAAAYY Too much .. so i got this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/360716067815?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648 not sure what kind of tentioners they are.. maybe you could let me knowI ilke to deal with NAPA stores for parts! 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jonbearsmt 919 Posted February 1, 2014 so i got it all done and its running great... had both heads done full valve job, i ended up using the old chains, i bought new guides and tensioners .. runs very strong ... but.. true to form as soon as i get my subs reconed for the town car.. took it to work today... beating it on the way home.. as i pull in my drive way i smell sweet and steam is rolloing out of my hood....... my fucking heater pipe output on my intake manifold broke off!!!.... great .. new intake time. the worst part is.. now i cant even meter 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemead08 752 Posted February 1, 2014 Dammit bro. Hard to catch a break 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coobies5 43 Posted February 1, 2014 damn man, good luck with that one now. 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Randal Johnson 544 Posted February 1, 2014 true to form as soon as i get my subs reconed for the town car.. took it to work today... beating it on the way home.. as i pull in my drive way i smell sweet and steam is rolloing out of my hood....... my fucking heater pipe output on my intake manifold broke off!!!.... great .. new intake time. the worst part is.. now i cant even meter I know the feeling brother ... If it wasn't for bad luck, we wouldn't have any luck at all. 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
