Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
My old build log was deleted when DSS lost their section. So I have to start from scratch. Here is the update for my truck for the 2015 season. This build will be complete by October 2015 and will consist of the following hardware.
6 Team SSA 15" subwoofers
3 Taramps HD30kSPL amplifiers
3 JuiceBox LiFePo4 80ah batteries and 1 20ah.
Single Reflex Bandpass Enclosure 10 cuft sealed, 35 cuft ported, 900cuin port area
The end goal is to do a 165 any where. My last build loudest score was 162.3 outlaw with 6 15" DSS Ethos and 3 Taramps HD8000
This is still my only vehicle that I own.
My current setup consists of:
-Advance auto parts group 34/78 up front
-stinger spp1500d in the back
-mechman 270a alt
-Knu konceptz 1/0 all around including big 3
I was wanting to upgrade to something bigger (maybe a dc level 6 18). I am tore between 2 options...(both options will have c1100.4 and same batteries plus some later down the line)
-2 positive runs of sky high 2/0 from front to back
-3 positive runs to the amp
-Big 3 in sky high 2/0
-Another bc2k strapped to the other one
-1 run of sky high 2/0 from front to back
-2 runs of knu 1/0 or 1 run of sky high 2/0 to each bc
-big 3 in sky high 2/0
I can save money going with another bc, but would the more efficient taramps be a better option? Im just curious of yalls thoughts on the taramps.
Ok guys, here is MY personal Review of the Taramp HD8000
I personally own Three of them. I purchased two use from DangRebel here, and the third directly from Shizzzon. One of used ones from DangRebel went into protect immediately upon hooking up. And the BNIB from Shizzzon also went into protect while demoing Sunday afternoon while at Slamology.
Here is a few pictures of my installation for Reference.
On the chargers.
So to explain my experience in total. My system consist of One DC Power 240XP, 100ft of 3/0, Ten Batteries. I also should mention I run each amp at 1.5 ohm, the amps are the Two ohm version. Now, the drive down to Indiapolois is about 5 hours long. For the better half of the trip, I would turn the gain up half way, couldn't take much more than that, (pressure wise). So the most my voltage would drop would be .1-.3 Volts. During some testing at the shop, we clamped 3200 watts starting at 2.7 rising to 8.1 pulling a little over 300 amps of current.
The first time demoing there that Friday night, I was able to burn up 2 300 amp fuses while playing full tilt after 2 or 3 songs. Replaced the fuses, back up and running.
Saturday, I beat ALL DAY. Was still having engine issues. So for 87% of my demos were at battery voltage. Since the engine was off, that also means no rear A/C to cool them, still no issues. Yes, they did get warm. On sunday, got warm enough to not hold your hand longer than 30 seconds. But again, it wasn't THAT hot lol.
To describe how the amps are mounted. The rear wall is 3" thick of High Quality MDF. Which an another layer of 3/4" wood mounting plate is attached. Then the steel rack. Then the amps are mounted onto an 3/4" MDF mounting baffle, that is mounted onto the steel amp rack. Shizzzon informed me that there was still too much vibration, and wired too low, which is why the bottom amp failed. I was able to verify that the amps were indeed moving, but from what I could see, it was only becuase the truck itself was moving. Not much else I can do about that.
So in sum, these amps, in my opinion, are the better choice for us in every aspect, EXCEPT durability. If you think of where these amps come from and their origin, it makes sense for what I see is their biggest flaw. These amps are MUCH more sensitive than Koreans. The output section especially. We had I believe 3 other Team IAK members whom amps failed as well. One was becuase the wrong gauge was used for the speaker cable. One was for no reason, there's mine, and one other.
So, for advice for other users. It is ok to run these amps, they do power, cheap, small, and stupid efficient. To run these long term usage, have these key items.
2-3 Group 31s PER HD8000. Use the appropriate size for the output section. 8 gauge min. Ensure there is NO to VERY min. vibration. And wire to the proper ohm load. I wouldn't even risk burping lower than rated. Do not count on box rise.
Please note, that the ENTIRE weekend I beat the living piss out of my system lol. Most people, demo for 20-30 seconds at most per demo. I would play full songs full tilt, had no issues. I played my system for at least 4-10 hours in total over the weekend. The amps gave me no issues until Sunday afternoon. Which was a much hotter day, maybe 5-10 degrees more. There was no smoke, just protect light. Yes there was troublshooting performed. Turn system off, let cool down, unplug everything, let cool down, remove RCA/Speaker cables, etc.
Moving forward, I will Continue to run these amps. At four ohms each for now, then at World finals run at 2 ohms.
Recent YouTube Posts