Jump to content
Ceez9090

crescendo pwx 6"

Recommended Posts

Ok I was thinking of replacing my current mid bass drivers, which are rockford fosgates t2652-s. They are a component set. I was looking in to the crescendo pwx 6"s would this be a good upgrade? If so what kind of amplifier would I need for them? I currently have the fosgate t400.4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

no, not a good idea at all. how about you describe your current install and explain what's missing. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The fosgates are coo but they tend to cut out at high volume. I'm not sure if it's speakers or amp. But I was thinking of going two pwx in each door along with ft1 tweets.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The fosgates are coo but they tend to cut out at high volume. I'm not sure if it's speakers or amp. But I was thinking of going two pwx in each door along with ft1 tweets.

terrible idea, they will sound like shit. 

 

fix your current install. something is seriously screwed up if they're cutting off. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Speakers do what they are told. Sounds like an amp problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My friend has pwx 6's on a fosgate 400.4. Sounds awesome but i agree with litium figure out whats wrong first. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

The fosgates are coo but they tend to cut out at high volume. I'm not sure if it's speakers or amp. But I was thinking of going two pwx in each door along with ft1 tweets.

terrible idea, they will sound like shit. 

 

fix your current install. something is seriously screwed up if they're cutting off. 

 

 

 

I agree, ditch the "pro audio" idea as there's no way you'll ever get comparable results, IMHO anyway.  The cutting off may be a result of a protection circuit in the passive crossover.  The components in my van have such protection and when you're REALLY wailing on them one driver or another (typically one of the tweeters) will cut off for a moment.  One or two clicks of the volume back down and everything is back to good.  It's a really good thing the protection circuits are there or the wife would have popped this set a LONG time ago!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My friend has pwx 6's on a fosgate 400.4. Sounds awesome but i agree with litium figure out whats wrong first.

Awesome? Seriously? Low standards there...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah they would SUCK for what your doing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ight well how would I be able to know what causes them to cut out? Or maybe it is a safety feature on crossover

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you have to turn the amp off and back on to get them to start working again?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In my experience its the crossovers. Too much power or clipping is being applied and they are protecting. Which is good because if not they would just blow. The crossovers will eventually blow if you keep doing it. Buy a higher rms component set, turn the volume down or go active and switch to pro audio. 

 

I blew 2 sets of tweeters in the T2652s. I still have a pair of the mids. They are loud but after one song full tilt the tweeters would go muffled until they cooled down. Those components get loud and sound decent, replacing with Crescendo pwx's would be horrible. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok thanks for advice. But are those bad speakers the pwx? Just asking, I ain't gonna by them now lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So everyone tells you there not for your goals or setup but you still insist on purchasing them.

If that's the case then go ahead and buy them since none of the advice given was considered.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your crossovers probably contain "Polyfuses" (thermisters).  When you overdrive the component set (it is set conservatively) they heat up and become highly resistive thus dropping the tweeter output level.  When you let them cool, they go back to normal in a minute or so.

 

The are horrible for sound quality and are used when you have cheap drivers that you know someone is going to abuse.  

 

If you want to get rid of them, just bypass them by soldering the two points together that the leads go through.  It will sound better, but you will probably blow one of the tweeters eventually.

 

They look like this:

 

littelfuse-60r050xu1.jpg?w=467&h=467

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh, and clipping doesn't effect a Polyfuse at all, just so that is clear...  Only too much continuous power does...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok thanks for advice. But are those bad speakers the pwx? Just asking, I ain't gonna by them now lol

Bad, good, who cares? They don't fit your application AT ALL. Anything misused sucks donkey, so for what you want to do yes they suck donkey.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So everyone tells you there not for your goals or setup but you still insist on purchasing them.

If that's the case then go ahead and buy them since none of the advice given was considered.

I think you read wrong I said aint as in not going to Edited by Ceez9090

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a cheap ass zapco component set cut out just as your describing. Turned the amp down, messed with it for quite a while and realized I just bought a shitty comp set. I couldn't get the volume out of them I wanted without it cutting out.

My advice is listen to the advice given. The more detailed you can be with what you want from your speakers the better help your going to get.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i own the 8s.. to me, they sound awesome for high powered installs, except for the following-

 

the 8s are rated for 200wrms.

 

I run ~400-500wrms per driver crossed around 300Hz to 3.5KHz.

 

Around 3KHz, they start resonating because of the cone material.

 

The cone needs to be mass loaded when using this much power.

 

Easy fix is to not use that much power.. 

 

 

Using these drivers is purely a custom tuning scenario.

 

I would NOT suggest EVER replacing your current woofers\mids with ANY pro audio driver in a passive x-over config.

 

Pro audio drivers need pure active processing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i own the 8s.. to me, they sound awesome for high powered installs, except for the following-

the 8s are rated for 200wrms.

I run ~400-500wrms per driver crossed around 300Hz to 3.5KHz.

Around 3KHz, they start resonating because of the cone material.

The cone needs to be mass loaded when using this much power.

Easy fix is to not use that much power..

Using these drivers is purely a custom tuning scenario.

I would NOT suggest EVER replacing your current woofers\mids with ANY pro audio driver in a passive x-over config.

Pro audio drivers need pure active processing.

well that's what I was asking what kind of amp would be needed and go active. I wasn't planning on going passive.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

i own the 8s.. to me, they sound awesome for high powered installs, except for the following-

the 8s are rated for 200wrms.

I run ~400-500wrms per driver crossed around 300Hz to 3.5KHz.

Around 3KHz, they start resonating because of the cone material.

The cone needs to be mass loaded when using this much power.

Easy fix is to not use that much power..

Using these drivers is purely a custom tuning scenario.

I would NOT suggest EVER replacing your current woofers\mids with ANY pro audio driver in a passive x-over config.

Pro audio drivers need pure active processing.

well that's what I was asking what kind of amp would be needed and go active. I wasn't planning on going passive.

 

 

if you're having trouble with properly installing a passive set i doubt you're ready to handle active. you would also need to invest in more than just an amp for an active install. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i own the 8s.. to me, they sound awesome for high powered installs, except for the following-

the 8s are rated for 200wrms.

I run ~400-500wrms per driver crossed around 300Hz to 3.5KHz.

Around 3KHz, they start resonating because of the cone material.

The cone needs to be mass loaded when using this much power.

Easy fix is to not use that much power..

Using these drivers is purely a custom tuning scenario.

I would NOT suggest EVER replacing your current woofers\mids with ANY pro audio driver in a passive x-over config.

Pro audio drivers need pure active processing.

well that's what I was asking what kind of amp would be needed and go active. I wasn't planning on going passive.

if you're having trouble with properly installing a passive set i doubt you're ready to handle active. you would also need to invest in more than just an amp for an active install.

ok so just limit my self to mediocre installs. Because I can't learn new things, and some were born knowing everything.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

 

i own the 8s.. to me, they sound awesome for high powered installs, except for the following-

the 8s are rated for 200wrms.

I run ~400-500wrms per driver crossed around 300Hz to 3.5KHz.

Around 3KHz, they start resonating because of the cone material.

The cone needs to be mass loaded when using this much power.

Easy fix is to not use that much power..

Using these drivers is purely a custom tuning scenario.

I would NOT suggest EVER replacing your current woofers\mids with ANY pro audio driver in a passive x-over config.

Pro audio drivers need pure active processing.

well that's what I was asking what kind of amp would be needed and go active. I wasn't planning on going passive.

if you're having trouble with properly installing a passive set i doubt you're ready to handle active. you would also need to invest in more than just an amp for an active install.

ok so just limit my self to mediocre installs. Because I can't learn new things, and some were born knowing everything.

 

 

your instinct to buy new gear is a terrible idea given you've have yet to diagnose your current issues. start there. i'm trying to save you time and money. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×