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Joey Broussard

Help me ID this Fi 18 I bought

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http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=121288534084

A few weeks ago I had been in bed sick and was either stir crazy or medicine crazy and bid on and won this auction. Normally I wouldn't have bid on an auction with so little info but I did. I received the sub its in perfect shape looks practically brand new. Only problem is I have no idea what model it is or the vc impedance. Is there any way at all to identify what model this is? Any help a t all would be great. Thanks!

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http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=121288534084

A few weeks ago I had been in bed sick and was either stir crazy or medicine crazy and bid on and won this auction. Normally I wouldn't have bid on an auction with so little info but I did. I received the sub its in perfect shape looks practically brand new. Only problem is I have no idea what model it is or the vc impedance. Is there any way at all to identify what model this is? Any help a t all would be great. Thanks!

Going to need pictures of the motor to identify which model it is. As for the impedence you can check that with a digital multimeter.

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Looks like an X/Q

Possibly 

 

$_57.JPG

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Only the new X with a solid T-Yoke has a three inch voice coil, the older X has a two inch voice coil.  The Q has a much smaller T-Yoke vent while the SSD has a large T-Yoke vent like the one pictured in the e-bay advertisment.

Edited by audioinformer

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SSD

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So if it's an SSD from what I've read it will need a 7+ ft^3 enclosure. And I've seen different rms power ratings (800 & 1000) but I have an RF Power T8002 that puts out about 1400 rms. Are those conservative ratings? Will it be able to handle that much? Any advice or suggestions are welcome and appreciated.

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If the RMS on the sub is correct according to your research then your amp will be fine as long as you adjust the gain/level knob until you hear distortion then back off a notch or two.  If it takes all of the amps power that's great(up until your rated H/U's voltage output), if not that is also good too.  Just keep your voltage gain behind your H/U's voltage rating using same technique and you will have some over head power which is also good.

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If you look at the former usually you can see the model written in sharpie.

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Is that a dark grey logo on the cap? Kind of looks like an old IB3. Pictures are not good enough to tell though

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20140330_120856.jpg

 

20140330_120943.jpg

 

20140330_121002.jpg

 

20140330_121008.jpg

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