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I was going to by the RF 3sixty.3 today, then noticed a JL clean sweep.

From what I can gather the JL simply converts the signal, from a OEM head unit, to a flat signal then outputs to an amplifier.

The RF360.3 will convert the signal, from a OEM head unit, to a user defined signal via the EQ functionality then outputs to an amplifier.

If I purchase a RF360.3 how likely am I to give my amp, SAX100.4, a flat response?

If I purchase a JL clean how likely am I to make that signal something other then flat?

In other words for me, a person who doesn't compete but enjoys good quality, would I be better off with a JL or an RF?

Also from what I have read, if I change the EQ on my OEM head unit it will also change the output of the JL unit so in this way I get a basic EQ rather then a super advanced EQ, what the RF 3sixty.3 offers.

lastly what I noticed is the JL has no sub outputs and takes high level inputs. If I wanted to run a sub how would I do this on the JL unit?

thanks for the help guys.

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come to think of it to get the sub and amp combo I guess i could jump the full range signal to the sub amp and then just use the LPF and be done with it?

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Quite honestly this is a apples to oranges kind of question. These are 2 completely different classes of items and I think you should do a little more research in to both before making any abrupt decisions. From my understanding you just want to take your high level inputs and make them as flat as possible and turn them in to rca outs?

Edited by nadcicle

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Nadcicle,

are you saying that using an RF is overkill as an RF should be used for more of an "audio junky" or in a competition stand point?

I realize the RF is:

-8 channel

-advanced signal processor

-200+ channels to setup if needed

-phase control

-time delay

-pretty much a little computer with one function (sound).

I realize the JL is:

-dumb

-fixes what it see's or rather corrects or strips out outside modulation

end goal is to use my factory OEM head unit to get a better sound out of my speakers and add a sub. by keeping my OEM head unit and simply interfacing with the outputs on the OEM head unit I will retain my blue tooth, steering wheel controls and other misc sync items. If I have to replace my speakers in the door panels I will no big deal.

I am driving a 2010 ford escape.

I did do a double din in the past with a PAC interface module but I was unhappy with the loss of my sync and bt from the head unit vs the sync BT.

As I think about my choices I am leaning more and more towards the JL. Although the cost difference is around 150~ on average.

Edited by CrazyKenKid

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Would depend on how your going to go.

Basic install Cleansweep

Something serious 3sixty.3

I've used both and prefer the Cleansweep myself.

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thanks dblevel,

last question of the night is there a place where I can look to see if I need the channel summing for my 2010 ford escape?

JL CLSSI (i think it is called) it is used when my OEM head unit doesn't send out a full range signal.

the JL seems to have a few add on's but I am not sure if I will need any of them any comments guys

Edited by CrazyKenKid

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What are your plans for the install? Only the sax100.4?

The 3sixty.3 would give you more channels to use. 2/3 way setup plus sub duty?

You can use the EQ on the RF unit to better tune the setup. If the sax100.4 and an amp for subs is all your needing the Cleansweep would probably work. If you want more options(even into the future) in building the system and tuning the RF unit would work.

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for the amps i plan to use:

-SAX100.4 (old rev)

-SAZ1500 (not sure what rev)

-sub my old night shade or something sealed

-batterie(s) not sure yet maybe batcap 2000

-speakers OEM for now but if they are a pile of crap they will be swapped with something cool like a comp set,maybe i will try that sundown set!

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You would be fine with the Cleansweep.

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Are you sure you even need either? There are a ton of dead head OE units that have a flat response and are ready for amps with nothing.

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Can you throw a few put so some people have a place to start their research?

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Are you sure you even need either? There are a ton of dead head OE units that have a flat response and are ready for amps with nothing.

that is a good idea. I found a free RTA analyzer for my cell phone now all i need are tracks!

any idea where i can get some tracks?

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for refernce:

track: http://newmp3download.net/01_-_jl_audio_-_cleansweep_clean_sweep_calibration_track.mp3_4shared_download_mp3_3_MSRRp8.html

android app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=radonsoft.net.rta

now to test it out! crap i got to by some CD's (or toss it onto my usb stick)

Edited by CrazyKenKid

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Can you throw a few put so some people have a place to start their research?

in regards to links, that is information I have found on the supplier web site, other forums a youtube video's.

http://www.jlaudio.ca/car-audio-oem-interface

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/3sixty.3

happy hunting. if you would like to know something directly please message me here!

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so after doing this test my result where linear. but i don't know what kind a modulation the OEM headunit is doing to the output to achieve this linearity of the OEM system. I realize my head unit might be processing the sound output to match the response of the speakers being used.

I think I will use the JL sweep if it can be had for a reasonable price.

thanks everyone for your replies.

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If that RTA uses the phone's mic then it's pretty worthless for what you were trying to do. You don't need to know the linearity or frequency response of the system, you need to know the response at the outputs of the head unit or factory amps. You need to know what the system is doing electrically, not acoustically. You need to know what the factory system is doing to the signal in terms of built-in non-defeatable equalization and such.

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If that RTA uses the phone's mic then it's pretty worthless for what you were trying to do. You don't need to know the linearity or frequency response of the system, you need to know the response at the outputs of the head unit or factory amps. You need to know what the system is doing electrically, not acoustically. You need to know what the factory system is doing to the signal in terms of built-in non-defeatable equalization and such.

ya kind a what I was thinking after I ran the test and thought about it for a bit. I looked into an RTA machine and the cost was a bit high. I guess I could go to a car audio place and see if they have one I can use to see what my stock system is doing if a clean sweep is required.

Thanks Impious for the input and telling me what the results really where! smile.png

it is good to still see you and M5 here!

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couldn't you just measure voltage with several test tones? you would be able to see if there is any filtering at least. all you would need a dmm. 

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First step might be to share what car it is. Vehicle specific forums have info on most things

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