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(1) Sundown ZV6 2-OHM 12" 2500W RMS - Suggestions on Automotive Electrical Help and Amplifier Recommendation NeededBy Ryann627
I currently own a 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier that I am currently building a subwoofer install in.
My complete and current installs:
New Kenwood KDC-BT378U radio with built-in speaker amp, All new door and deck speakers. (COMPLETE)
Big 3 Kit, Mechman 270 AMP Alternator, (1) Sundown ZV6 12" 2-OHM 2500W Subwoofer (wired to 1 OHM), One run of 1/0 gauge wire complete with fuse and capacitor), Fiberglass Subwoofer Box(Not sure what size yet, any help on this would be greatly appreciated)
Just wondering if all the above installs with be able to comfortably power a 3000 watt amplifier to run the subwoofer properly? I know Sundown Subwoofers are underrated, just not sure if I want to over-power by more than 500W, seems safer to me like that, unless I'm wrong? Never dealt with this much power before, max was 600 watts before this build.
Any other install recommendations? Bigger battery because it is stock? Better springs for the added weight in the rear? Box will be fiberglass but the subwoofer alone weighs 95 pounds.
Thanks in advance guys.
PRV AUDIO Vocal Speakers....
This may not make sense initially, but a high-quality speaker will have less bandwidth than a lower quality speaker... (for the most part)
Just like a 3- or 4-way system is always better than a 1- or 2-way system. The narrower the bandwidth the speaker must play the cleaner it will sound. This will also keep you from asking the speaker to play up to its upper and lower frequency limits which are where it starts to sound "forced" to play those frequencies
Pro Audio speakers are nothing new to car audio, but I see consumers not really knowing how to properly use them and having some issues which is understandable. These are totally different than your standard coaxial speaker
If you look at the graph on the 6mr500ndy, which sounds amazing, you'll see that it can play from 90hz to 12,000hz... but if you narrow it down to what is plays "best" and more "naturally" it’s closer to 200hz to 10,000hz. Yes, it can play down to 50hz but not efficiently and not as well as 200 and up. Very low volume that would be fine but in what we do with the speaker you will want to cross it over closer to 200-300hz
I get a lot of PMs asking if this speaker will pick up where my subs leave off? … around 60-80hz. I say no but the specs say "yes”. 99-13k so that may be a little confusing if you don’t look at the graph and understand what information it has in it
So, for someone interested in using this speaker as a voice speaker, which I HIGHLY recommend, you will also need a "midbass" speaker to go with it such as a 10mb800 or 10mb500 or 8mb450.
This leads me to another piece of information. PRV model numbers have an "MR”, “MB", "SW" or "W" in between the size of the driver and wattage of the individual speaker. MR=midrange
This is a general guideline for what the speaker is geared towards. That doesn’t mean an 8mb450 can’t be used for midrange or and 8mr400 can’t be used for midbass. That is where the graph and interpretation of the graph comes into play
There is a lot more that goes into designing your front stage or your "voice" speakers that one of these days I’ll try and have a more in depth write up. The possibilities are endless...
I'm nearing the finish line in an installation that includes a new HU with FT/RT, FR/LT RR/RT RR/LT, and a SUB output, plus an unmarked, unidentified in the manual, RCA output on the back of the HU next to the SUB output.
I have a 5 channel amp that has Channels 1(white), 2(red), 3(white) and 4(red) marked clearly on the amp, plus a SUB RT(white) and SUB LFT(red) input, all input by RCA.
The same amp has 4 sets of output terminals, 1 each for + & -. It also has 2 terminals for the sub (+ & -), which connects to the sub on R &L posts.
So, first question:
How do I run a cable from the HU, which is 1 RCA connection, to the AMP, which has both LT and RT RCA input connections?
I also have the White, Grey, Green, Violet (+&-'s) hooked up from the HU to the wiring harness that goes to the speakers. The reason for this was that I have six speakers placements: 2 6.5" in the front doors, 2 6.5" in the rear doors. In the dash, I removed the tweeters that were in a plate and replaced them with Infinity Kappa20's midrange speakers that have bandpass crossovers that handle 550hz-7Mhz hooked up.
Just to confuse things more, The manual for the amp shows The channel 1 speaker attached to the channel 2 output terminals(+&-) and the channel 2 speaker (+&-) attached to the channel 1 terminals. Channels 3 and 4 are where I expect them, 3 & 4. And then again for the SUB it has + and - terminals to go to + & - posts on the SUB.
I've routed every plug in every location and checked each speaker, one by one by changing the fader/balance in different combinations to determine what's going on.
What I sense I'm doing wrong is that I'm wiring RCA cables with both RT/LT wires into the AMP to the HU when both only want a single signal cable each going into each jack. One single wire each that somehow is carrying both the Positive and Negative in it, versus a double speaker wire that goes into a positive/negative RCA male connector.
So that leaves the sub with one single output HU going to the AMP which has a R(white) and L(red) female connector. And then the 5th channel +&- going to the +&- on the SUB input.
The reason I have the HU output speaker wires (white,grey,green,violet) going to the speakers is because of the Dash Unit speakers. They're tapped into those 4 in the wiring harness where I can't get to them, but run from the HU from 4 wires to 6 different speakers). Again, the dash speakers are 2" Infinity midranges with bandpass crossovers connected to each which came with them. I just noticed they are 2.5 ohm, and everything else is 4 ohm, which is worrisome.
Is there a wiring genius out there that can understand what's going on and tell what I have wrong? There's also a whine coming from the front right dash speaker and possibly the right(passenger side) door speakers. I have the power cable far from the speaker wires on either sides of the vehicle. But I'm sure it has with the larger wiring issue at hand.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated. This is a crazy puzzle. Here's a diagram I made to make it more visual:
Hello, I have problem with choosing speakers (I'm just new in car audio), but I got 2 power amplifiers - CONCORD CA 2075 (300W),they are both 2 channel. One of them is bridged and connected to bass tube (raveland 400W). Second one will be connected to 4 speakers (2 x front 165mm, 2 x rear 130mm) , and I need to buy them, but I don't know how to compute how much Watts those speakers should have when i will connect them to this 300W power amplifier, which would have 2 speakers connected to + and - "left" and next 2 speakers for + and - "right". (You don't need to give me models of speakers cause idk if they will be available in my country, just give me how much watts they should have and I would really happy ;D)
And my question is can i connect wires going out of radio (normally to speakers now they are going to power amplifier) and cinch wires both at the same time??? (just got both with this stuff and I don't especially know if it's right :P
Ps. sorry for any mistakes caused by my english abilities :/
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