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lithium

Buick Century - active 3way + sub w/ nexus 7

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Nice collection of amps!

Thanks!  Though, I really want to replace the front stage amps (everything but the cadence) with a pair of ppi900.4s to save space. 

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Deadened the roof today. Someday i would like to order some 3m thinsulate acoustic from Don. 

 

used 10 tiles on the roof. 6-8 tiles would have been plenty but I have like 30 tiles left to use in the front doors. 

IMG_20140530_155739_522_zps6a54aed2.jpg

IMG_20140530_155734_146_zps9e00d500.jpg

IMG_20140530_155730_936_zps5d6d3889.jpg

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Nice! Are you talking about the ccf?

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Nice! Are you talking about the ccf?

No need for CCF on the roof, Thinsulate is pretty much the only thing you can use that actually absorbs sound for a car installation. Foam would have to be much thicker. 

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/how-to/roof

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Ahhh, didn't know he was carrying that now

Nice! Are you talking about the ccf?

No need for CCF on the roof, Thinsulate is pretty much the only thing you can use that actually absorbs sound for a car installation. Foam would have to be much thicker.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/how-to/roof

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Ahhh, didn't know he was carrying that now

 

 

Nice! Are you talking about the ccf?

No need for CCF on the roof, Thinsulate is pretty much the only thing you can use that actually absorbs sound for a car installation. Foam would have to be much thicker.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/how-to/roof

 

i think don is the only one who does.

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updates. 

false wall and floor are done for the most part. Going to try some carpet dye to lighten up the carpet later. I wanted to make the sub vented properly into the trunk so i created the oval hole. Came together well enough I think. 

IMG_20140611_164635_287_zpsa346be0b.jpg

 

I used a chamfer bit on the router around the edge of the hole and used a rabbiting bit recess around all the edges. 

 

IMG_20140611_165016_915_zps2cdb067e.jpg

 

the grill cloth is just stapled on. 
IMG_20140611_164826_608_zps26e4a524.jpg

 

These are the mounts for the false wall. (red dots)

7e877a9b-5eed-4ec8-a6f9-f5c867b783c9_zps

 

Finally ready to move on to the front stage and tablet install. 

Edited by lithium

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why the grill cloth looks like totally different colors in the pictures must be my camera. actually it looks almost purple in person. I might order some better quality cloth later. 

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Looks very clean

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wow looks good!

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thanks guys.

 

deadening pics:

 

I had tons of cdl tiles remaining so i went a little overboard. Then again, the sls 8's are some pretty serious drivers. 

 

As you can see, i focused on the flat portions of the panel. The outer door skin got ~50% coverage with tiles. 

IMG_20140612_174254_569_zpsa209aad6.jpg

 

IMG_20140612_174243_854_zpse5881d45.jpg

 

 

I popped the grill off the factory trim panel. The factory 5.25" speaker will be replaced by peerless sls 8's. 
IMG_20140612_152838_251_zps0d55a3be.jpg

 

I removed the factory speaker and lowered the window down to measure mounting depth. The sls8's need 4.4" mounting depth, cutting the trim panel will be necessary. 

IMG_20140612_180645_100_zps393c594f.jpg

 

Here's an idea of how much of the trim panel i will need to cut.
IMG_20140612_180633_958_zpse7b80b21.jpg

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starting the nexus 7 install. 

 

fits well with out modification. 
IMG_20140630_192400_304_zps6a73b8c5.jpg

 

my first idea for mounting the tablet is using these straps and buckles. 
IMG_20140630_195231_428_zps87bc5c9f.jpgIMG_20140630_195238_298_zps7f4dfca9.jpg

 

i was worried they might not hold the tablet firmly in place but they seem to do the trick. I realized later that the knots aren't necessary, lol 

IMG_20140702_163347_243_zpsadb7c109.jpg

 

I need to do some wiring and then program the steering wheel controls to finish the tablet install. 

moving on to the midbass install. I made baffles out of 3/4" mdf. To water proof I started with 2 coats of resin. If you've painted mdf before you know the edges are very porous so after 2 coats i decided to used a rubberized spray sealant. I think it was the rustoleum brand. 
 

The baffles are secured with 3 bolts (perhaps i should have used 4 or more bolts?). I also used butyl rope to seal the baffle to the door. And applied duct seal for the hell of it. 

IMG_20140702_175616_978_zps14f1556b.jpg

 

after some rain i noticed water collecting on the baffle noted by the red circle below.

oZOo79V.png

 

 

i'm trying to come up with an idea on how to direct water away from the speaker.

 

My first idea was to hack up some of these. 

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_237XT68/XTC-6-x8-Speaker-Baffles.html?tp=2809

 

and finally some pics with the door panels on. My solution for covering the midbass and everything will be one of the last things I work on. I need to make sure the doors can handle the midbass. I may go with enclosure or something if thats the case. 

 

IMG_20140702_180945_213_zpsa2f36e22.jpg

 

top down view. I could have move things down and to the right a bit more. 
IMG_20140702_180949_725_zps847a0efd.jpg

 

other side is a pretty close match, thank jebus 
IMG_20140702_193900_058_zps7d31e0cc.jpg
 

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$11, worth a try i think. I'll have to cut out the bottom so the speaker remains IB of course.  I'll wait a day or two to see if you guys got a better idea. 
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_237XT80/XTC-8-Speaker-Baffles-6-depth.html

 

 

Im actually surprised my sls 8s have lasted this long. 

Edited by lithium

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I was going to suggest using thin guards like plexi but the cups Sen like an easier install with some modification. I might do the same for my door. I found water in the sill today after the storm

$11, worth a try i think. I'll have to cut out the bottom so the speaker remains IB of course. I'll wait a day or two to see if you guys got a better idea.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_237XT80/XTC-8-Speaker-Baffles-6-depth.html

Im actually surprised my sls 8s have lasted this long.

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Pure ecstasy.

Whatever it takes is good and $11 isn't much

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ya just spending $11 will save me a lot of time and trouble fabricating something 

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I am anxious to see how you are going to finish your doors.

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anyone have an idea on how to dampen the metal rod things that go from the handle to the door latch? 
IMG_20140709_122851_382_zps75380c88.jpg

Edited by lithium

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Don't need to dampen it, need it to not rattle. CCF smile.png

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 right haha. shouldn't post late at night.  

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Thinsulate can also work, but CCF might be cheaper

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got plenty of left over ccf so i'll give that a try. 

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updates

started the kicks

 

tried a new technique using full sheets of mat. 

IMG_20140728_101726_703_zps149fb7eb.jpg

 

IMG_20140728_101730_074_zps78b21d22.jpg

 

Trimmed back the excess. Obviously these will be trimmed back much further. Burned through all my dremel disks... should have used a jig saw. 

IMG_20140730_145938_937_zps4c44d98b.jpg

 

IMG_20140730_145947_006_zpsdf85a69a.jpg

 

Testing out some off axis aiming. Driver side tweeter will have to clear the E-brake and aviod firing straight into my left leg. 

I tried using plumber's tape to support the speaker rings and allow easy aiming but they cant handle the weight of the speakers. 

 

IMG_20140731_191642_437_zps0523bd59.jpg

 

I realized the passenger side tweeter is lower than the driver side. I'll be trying a few different configurations. 

IMG_20140731_191632_917_zps17ae6b85.jpg

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