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    • By Pitt
      Hey guys what's up...so I'm new to all this car audio forum stuff and am trying to fumble f__k my way through this post....so here it is...I am old school and have all old school shit....I'm looking at powering this beast of a system.....I have all of this in an 04 toyota tundra access cab limited.....basically I have around 20k of power needs....I'm running 2 DVC 10's by cerwin vega...2 DVC 12's by cerwin vega...3 different cerwin 6.5 component systems...head unit is 10.6 inch touchscreen with every bell and whistle imaginable....for power I'm old school also with a lanzar 8k velocity amp..(2 channel) for the 10's...a lanzar 2.5k velocity amp...(4 channel) for components.....a power acoustic 10k amp for my 12's.....I have a stinger 10 Farad cap.....now my problem is how to power all this equip.....I'm looking into the deka farm batteries....there was another who posted about this same dilemma....I ask....what about rv batteries....and can I put 24 volt batteries in the bed and step them down to 12 volt....and have less batteries....I don't want to go into debt for the rest of my life trying to power this system....I have pics of all this build that I will upload as soon as I figure out how...and I think yall will get a kick and some amazement out of my enclosure fabrication...I also have fiber optic lighting inside...lighted wheel rings and underglow outside....it's a lot of juice I need and I don't want 20 batteries...what's my best solution 
    • By Ryann627
      I currently own a 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier that I am currently building a subwoofer install in.
      My complete and current installs:
      New Kenwood KDC-BT378U radio with built-in speaker amp, All new door and deck speakers. (COMPLETE)
      Big 3 Kit, Mechman 270 AMP Alternator, (1) Sundown ZV6 12" 2-OHM 2500W Subwoofer (wired to 1 OHM), One run of 1/0 gauge wire complete with fuse and capacitor), Fiberglass Subwoofer Box(Not sure what size yet, any help on this would be greatly appreciated)
      Just wondering if all the above installs with be able to comfortably power a 3000 watt amplifier to run the subwoofer properly? I know Sundown Subwoofers are underrated, just not sure if I want to over-power by more than 500W, seems safer to me like that, unless I'm wrong? Never dealt with this much power before, max was 600 watts before this build.
      Any other install recommendations? Bigger battery because it is stock? Better springs for the added weight in the rear? Box will be fiberglass but the subwoofer alone weighs 95 pounds.
      Thanks in advance guys.
    • By Aaron Clinton
      We have finally released our new amp.  It is a tiny tiny production run to see how people like them.  Meant for the high end, SQ market, without the European price tag.  If this model moves as well as I hope, it will help spawn another model in the line up soon.
      https://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/ssa-dm150-2-2-channel-amplifier-150w-x-2-ch-or-500w-x-1-ch/

      Introducing the all new SSA DM150.2 amplifier. An old school approach, with updated components, for the most discerning of ears. If your front stage is lacking warmth and clarity, its time to upgrade. Our first amplifier in our high-end, sound quality, Class- A/B - Demon amplifier line. The SSA DM150.2 is the elite choice for that high end active front stage, premium passive components, and especially a sound quality sub (SSA Demon). We've incorporated direct inputs for those competition installs that use an external DSP and want their amp to be a pure gain block. Stellar looks to match the design and components. Don't let your speakers or your ears down, #levelup to the all new SSA DM150.2 amplifier.
       
      150 Watts RMS X 2 @ 4 Ohm 500 Watts RMS X 1 @ 4 Ohm Angled Terminals for show quality installations Full Complimentary low distortion Class AB design Tiffany Style RCA connectorsFull Complimentary low distortion Class AB design Butterworth Crossover Filters for premium level performance An extra pair of input connectors for a direct input that will bypass the crossover so the amp can act as a gain block The op amps featured are TI chips w/BB technology high performance audio grade IC's Docking Pads® to reduce vibration & extend the life the amplifier DC, Short Circuit, Thermal & Overload Protection, on board fusing Diagnostic LEDs Specifications
      OUTPUT POWER @ 14.4V input   RMS per channel at 4 Ohms 150 W x 2 CH RMS per channel at 2 Ohms 250 W x 2 CH RMS Bridged Mono at 4 Ohms 500 W x 1 CH RMS Mono at 1 Ohm N/A INPUT SENSITIVITY 200mV - 6.0V FREQUENCY RESPONSE 10Hz - 30KHz +/- 0.5dB THD LESS THAN 0.01% S/N RATIO > 103 dB CHANNEL SEPARATION > 91 dB DAMPING FACTOR @100Hz 4 ohm > 200 CROSSOVER RANGE   High Pass, 12dB/Octave 80-1.2K Hz Low Pass, 24dB/Octave 10Hz - 250Hz Subsonic N/A Variable Bass Boost (0 to +12 dB bass boost at 45 Hz) Yes Phase Shift (0 - 180 degrees) No Fusing 3 x 40A Size (L x W x H) in 16.4 x 8.9 x 2.2
    • By Aaron Clinton
      I am working to expand our amplifier offerings, while staying high quality, somewhat unique, and affordable.
      First up looks like a class-A/B 6 channel.  No crossover network, individual gains, 150watts x 6, will keep footprint as small as possible for the design, similar appearance to the current models.  Feeling out interest as it will effect the total amps I put into production.
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      As a side note, I am considering a 2-channel of the same line, but the demand for 2 channels right now are so low.  Would not really want to build them if they are going to sit for a while.
       
      Just curious on any input before I get production going.
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