building bandpass for 15, need some advice.

[///M5 2,833]

I sell sound measuring devices that are over $150,000. More than 1 mic though. It is far from trival to measure sound.

hey, i paid close to $15 for this meter, it's gotta be good!

Yeah for spitting verses, mic check 1, 2...

Usually the mics used for db measurement in car's is upwards of $300.

$300, rofl. If you want a microphone and not a pressure transducer then you are looking at upwards of $8k. There are other options but the defacto standard in this domain is actually a hydrophone made by Bruel & Kjaer. Of course, just a low level standardized industrial measurement microphone will exceed $1k easily. Shit ain't cheap to make.

[heftybone 4]

well evidently 1ohm is not the place for me. i smelled coil when i wired it up, so i figure my electrical just isn't up to the task. still with stock 130amp alternator and battery w/0awg "big 3 (er 4) for those just joining in, or that hasn't read through every single overly responsive, boring, long, tiring, excruciatingly painful reply or post that I've made.

you guys think it would be the cca 0awg power and ground?

i was thinkin it was either the stock electrical not givin enough power or the amp givin too much power. the amp is rated at 1900watts @ 1ohm/12v and the sub is 800watts rms. i know it's keepin 12v at the hard basslines @ 4ohm, but i doubt it is @ 1ohm. i didn't check it.

what's you're ideas on it. any input is appreciated and considered.

I've read of people putting 1000watts rms to this sub, but you know how that goes. it's a dayton audio um22-15.

I've wired it back to 4ohms, but now i got 12awg ofc true gauge speaker wire, (it's actually bigger than the 10awg copper/aluminum wire i had).

and just for the record, there is no difference in the sound between the overrated 10awg copper/aluminum or the true 12awg ofc.

[heftybone 4]

damn m5, i guess they're made of platinum and diamonds if it's the materials that drive the cost! I'm sure the accuracy has somethin to do with it, but what would make them so much better (the $150k units) than the cheaper ones, like for $25k or $5k? I'm sure it's not just the fact that they have multiple pick-up sources. and why would someone need to know that much detail about their product (excluding bomb makers, of course!)? i would think that building an airplane you would want to know how much noise/vibration is transduced into the cabin or car makers the same deal, but is that as far as it goes, or do you measure other aspects of the field?

you certainly delve into some serious shit if you're playin with equipment like thay on a daily basis.

[altoncustomtech 773]

Hence the reason that so many people can't understand where he's coming from most of the time...   Leagues ahead of the vast majority of members on this site and the reason why he is such an asset.  At least in my opinion.

[///M5 2,833]

Acoustic bramforming and holography requires many channels

[heftybone 4]

oh yeah m5, i knew that, i was just wanting to give an explanation to everyone else!

and alton, you are as accurate as a $150,000 spl meter. m5 is for certain an asset, and then some! that guy really knows his shit! he really helped me out too, it really makes the forums a top-notch place when there's people like him ,(and yourself, and honda and eurika and that flaky jake guy ) that's willing to help out and share their knowledge just to help out some hard-headed dumb-ass! that's why i try to express my appreciation so much. annoyingly at times, I'm sure! I'm just glad you guys don't charge for this!

[///M5 2,833]

I charge companies for acoustic help not people, lol

[heftybone 4]

I charge companies for acoustic help not people, lol

good thing, i would've quit a long time ago!

[heftybone 4]

hey people, do you think i could run @ 2ohms with this electrical?

[altoncustomtech 773]

It's a dual 2 ohm sub, physically impossible to wire it to 2 ohms.

Sorry

[jcarter1885 994]

You cant run the same sub at 4 ohms, 2 ohms and 1 ohm. Don't even remember what you have for a setup or electrical, thread is starting to get confusing and cluttered.

Get a voltmeter and watch voltage, as nobody can tell you exactly how your car will hold up. Depending on voltage you will need to add a secondary battery in the rear or h/o alternator.

[heftybone 4]

It's a dual 2 ohm sub, physically impossible to wire it to 2 ohms.

Sorry

well i know that. everything I've read has stated that but, i was thinkin if i took 1 lead from each terminal and wired them to the amp then it might see 2ohms. like if i took 1 voice coil + and ran it to the amp + and that same voice coil - and ran to the amp - and then did the exact same for the other side then it might see 2ohms. you get me? and if so, do you think that would be 2ohms? or would that be just like the 1ohm wiring?

it is slightly different than the 1ohm wiring method. sorry, i can never remember which is series and which is parallel.

[heftybone 4]

oh, and if i had a stereo amp i could run the coils independently and that would be 2ohms, right?

[altoncustomtech 773]

That wiring scheme you described is just parallel wiring, so no the amp will see a 1 ohm final load.

 

Yes, if you had a two channel amp and wired one coil to each channel then yes, each channel would see a two ohm load.  That's not currently what you're using on it though so that scenario isn't really relative anyway.

[heftybone 4]

yeah, that's what i thought. damnit! i guess it was wishful thinkin. like i could trick the amp into seein it as 2ohms, ya know? the wiring schematic i seen for 1ohm load was amp+ to sub #1+ then to #2+, then amp- to sub #2- then to sub #1-. my idea was to have individual wires for each connection because that seems to be a little different. because that 1ohm diagram still runs the wires kind-of in series where the coils are still connected to each other, where-as my thought is the coils are independent of each other except for right out of the amp. which, i guess, is basically the same damn thing. doh!

[heftybone 4]

hahahahahaaa