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SpeakerBoy

HO alt installed, more dimming, amp protects

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So I finally got my 200a alt installed, but something odd happened when bumping now, I get more dimming, occasionally the amp protects for a moment then cut back on, but my battery voltage is on average higher. I was wondering if the former was due to me having only done the big two, as I have direct power and ground lines; the other, I mean, I think I had it gained a little high and now that it has what it needs, it's clipping like crazy trying to balance with the Sony signal. The hu is becoming a massive headache in that aspect. I lowered the gain, but I really want to be able to run my heat lights and stereo without issue =[

I do have only a single battery for now, I'm trying to figure out the biggest single cell I can fit under the hood of my truck right now. After that, I'm buying a pair of interstate 8D Batts for the trunk.

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Christ

Maybe I'm just not satisfied with the output

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Not to be a dick because I dont know where you got your alt from, but maybe it's not a h/o alt and your stock is better.

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Amplifiers need POWER. Plain and simple.

Aquire enough battery power you need to run your amplifiers. THEN get the charging power you need.

That alt. (I don't care how may amps it puts out) is only charging what it needs to for the battery system. The regulater will limit it's capabilities. It's most likely doing no more work than your stock alternator.

Buy more battery power.

Edited by Randal Johnson

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If it is at idle is there a reason you'd expect differently.

Btw, don't use dimming to determine ANYTHING. Measure, measure, measure.

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Figured it out.

Bought it through DB Electrical, it's cheap as hell, rated for 200a at 2k or something like that, and 100a at idle. Cost me like 250 shipped

I figure it's a mix of, the regulator has to perceive the voltage drop before it ups current which happens too fast with music for it to be supported solely by the alt, and, no reserve.

I guess up next is the pair of interstates.

Do any of you know how to locate the oem dual alt bracket for the Ford 5.0? I have a perfectly good oem 130a alt on my desk now.

Anyway, my voltage IS better, I just hadn't re set my gain, so Future was nothing but clipping the night I dropped the alt in. Backed the gain down til it got a hair quieter and no issues since. My voltmeter should arrive by the end of the month, so it'll get sorted out pretty soon I think.

Edited by SpeakerBoy

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Voltmeter is in, solid 14.4 at listening volumes,nothing below 13.8 as long as it's a steady note. Huge kicks can drop it to 12.4

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Figured it out.

Bought it through DB Electrical, it's cheap as hell, rated for 200a at 2k or something like that, and 100a at idle. Cost me like 250 shipped

I figure it's a mix of, the regulator has to perceive the voltage drop before it ups current which happens too fast with music for it to be supported solely by the alt, and, no reserve.

I guess up next is the pair of interstates.

Do any of you know how to locate the oem dual alt bracket for the Ford 5.0? I have a perfectly good oem 130a alt on my desk now.

Anyway, my voltage IS better, I just hadn't re set my gain, so Future was nothing but clipping the night I dropped the alt in. Backed the gain down til it got a hair quieter and no issues since. My voltmeter should arrive by the end of the month, so it'll get sorted out pretty soon I think.

 

 

They is no OEM dual alt bracket for the 5.0.  In fact,the only Fords you'll find with dual alt brackets are commercial diesels.

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DB Electrical put a bad taste in my mouth from just one email correspondence with them,

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DB Electrical put a bad taste in my mouth from just one email correspondence with them,

I was very angry that I went to voicemail at 230 on a wednesday, but he called me back within 15 minutes, and shipped my proper alt that evening so I cut him some slack. haven't had to deal with them since; so I guess we'll see where this goes. 

If I had the $$$ I'd like a nice bright yellow Singer 370a though.

 

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Figured it out.

Bought it through DB Electrical, it's cheap as hell, rated for 200a at 2k or something like that, and 100a at idle. Cost me like 250 shipped

I figure it's a mix of, the regulator has to perceive the voltage drop before it ups current which happens too fast with music for it to be supported solely by the alt, and, no reserve.

I guess up next is the pair of interstates.

Do any of you know how to locate the oem dual alt bracket for the Ford 5.0? I have a perfectly good oem 130a alt on my desk now.

Anyway, my voltage IS better, I just hadn't re set my gain, so Future was nothing but clipping the night I dropped the alt in. Backed the gain down til it got a hair quieter and no issues since. My voltmeter should arrive by the end of the month, so it'll get sorted out pretty soon I think.

 

 

They is no OEM dual alt bracket for the 5.0.  In fact,the only Fords you'll find with dual alt brackets are commercial diesels.

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Figured it out.

Bought it through DB Electrical, it's cheap as hell, rated for 200a at 2k or something like that, and 100a at idle. Cost me like 250 shipped

I figure it's a mix of, the regulator has to perceive the voltage drop before it ups current which happens too fast with music for it to be supported solely by the alt, and, no reserve.

I guess up next is the pair of interstates.

Do any of you know how to locate the oem dual alt bracket for the Ford 5.0? I have a perfectly good oem 130a alt on my desk now.

Anyway, my voltage IS better, I just hadn't re set my gain, so Future was nothing but clipping the night I dropped the alt in. Backed the gain down til it got a hair quieter and no issues since. My voltmeter should arrive by the end of the month, so it'll get sorted out pretty soon I think.

 

 

They is no OEM dual alt bracket for the 5.0.  In fact,the only Fords you'll find with dual alt brackets are commercial diesels.

Oh, well, no wonder I couldn't find it even with a supposed part number. 

Can't wait to get my batteries. 

Would anyone advise against a pair of Interstate 8d cells? I can get them for <200 a piece less than a mile and a half from my house. Interstate distro center

I hear mixed reviews, lots of RV owners hate them, but other applications listed them as great

Edited by SpeakerBoy

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Figured it out.

Bought it through DB Electrical, it's cheap as hell, rated for 200a at 2k or something like that, and 100a at idle. Cost me like 250 shipped

I figure it's a mix of, the regulator has to perceive the voltage drop before it ups current which happens too fast with music for it to be supported solely by the alt, and, no reserve.

I guess up next is the pair of interstates.

Do any of you know how to locate the oem dual alt bracket for the Ford 5.0? I have a perfectly good oem 130a alt on my desk now.

Anyway, my voltage IS better, I just hadn't re set my gain, so Future was nothing but clipping the night I dropped the alt in. Backed the gain down til it got a hair quieter and no issues since. My voltmeter should arrive by the end of the month, so it'll get sorted out pretty soon I think.

 

 

They is no OEM dual alt bracket for the 5.0.  In fact,the only Fords you'll find with dual alt brackets are commercial diesels.

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Figured it out.

Bought it through DB Electrical, it's cheap as hell, rated for 200a at 2k or something like that, and 100a at idle. Cost me like 250 shipped

I figure it's a mix of, the regulator has to perceive the voltage drop before it ups current which happens too fast with music for it to be supported solely by the alt, and, no reserve.

I guess up next is the pair of interstates.

Do any of you know how to locate the oem dual alt bracket for the Ford 5.0? I have a perfectly good oem 130a alt on my desk now.

Anyway, my voltage IS better, I just hadn't re set my gain, so Future was nothing but clipping the night I dropped the alt in. Backed the gain down til it got a hair quieter and no issues since. My voltmeter should arrive by the end of the month, so it'll get sorted out pretty soon I think.

 

 

They is no OEM dual alt bracket for the 5.0.  In fact,the only Fords you'll find with dual alt brackets are commercial diesels.

Oh, well, no wonder I couldn't find it even with a supposed part number. 

Can't wait to get my batteries. 

Would anyone advise against a pair of Interstate 8d cells? I can get them for <200 a piece less than a mile and a half from my house. Interstate distro center

I hear mixed reviews, lots of RV owners hate them, but other applications listed them as great

In most cases batteries are batteries, they may not put up with the constant abuse though. I would look into a used battery reseller, we have one here in KC where you can get Deka G31s for around 60 bucks each.

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Where are you located?

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Where are you located?

Fort Wayne Indiana, 2 miles north of the coliseum.

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Where are you located?

Fort Wayne Indiana, 2 miles north of the coliseum.

There are a couple people up around columbus that sell batts for pretty cheap

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Update, three batteries, 200a alt, still get dimming with a total system power of <2k rms. Dimming is unaffected by AC, lights, etc. Steady voltage, drops to 13.2 at idle full tilt, 14.0 while driving. 

 

Ideas? Direct power and ground runs, amp is 12in from rear bank, 6ft from front, I can play for like three or four  hours car off, so I feel like I have enough reserve... Baffled. 

 

Am I expecting too much out of a 1.5k amp and just running it too hard? Finally getting an ear for hard clip on the beetle, so I feel that can't be the sole issue, not to mention it's got a good protect on it, it locks up when I  hit it too hard so idfk

Edited by SpeakerBoy

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Is a frame ground with direct power runs even relevant? I only haven't tried because it means new terminals and I want to save for some nice anodized ones. 

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You are clipping.  I would bet money on it.  13v should only dim if you have shirty aftermarket headlight bulbs

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I doubt that alternator is doing any justice for your system, nobody I know has had good results with their alts.

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New lights (overdue), new amp, new alt, first, more listening practice. Got it. 

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