Is this a good amp wiring kit for this amp?

[Florida_Audio 55]

The amp wiring kit is :NVX XKIT84    (100% Copper, 4-Channel True Spec 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit w/ RCA Interconnect and 65 ft Speaker Cable)

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_66498_NVX-XKIT84.html

 

This is the amp it will be used with : Hifonics Zeus ZRX1000.4  -   1000W 4-Channel Class A/B Zeus Series Car Amplifier

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44492_Hifonics-Zeus-ZRX1000.4.html

 

Just wondering if that is a good decision? It also comes with speaker wires.

 

Edit: i just read that a 4 gauge amp wire might be better? but is it needed for this? or should this 8 gauge wire be fine?

Also the speaker wire it comes with is 16 gauge. Would i need 12 or 14 gauge speaker wire instead?

I plan on only using 2 front component speakers for now. Each speaker takes 110 RMS.

And later i will bridge 2 channels from my amp to run a subwoofer. So should i try to stay around 500 RMS from all parts?

Edited March 22, 2016 by Florida_Audio

[RuckU2 0]

They only recommend 8 gauge for this amp. So you will be good

[lithium 358]

wow are wiring kits that expensive now... 

just run 4 gauge now and save yourself some hassle if you decide to add more power. 

this is probably a decent option. though 12 gauge speaker wire is way fucking over kill. 16 gauge is plenty

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/amp-installation-kits/sp/complete-4-gauge-4-channel-amplifier-installation-kit-/

 

[lithium 358]

avoid copper clad aluminum and shitty fuse holder and you could piece a kit together perhaps. 

[///M5 2,833]

I also wouldn't buy that amp.  I am horribly opposed to general rules of thumb in audio as they are all wrong, but there is a rule that everyone should follow.  Never, ever buy an amp that specifies Max power.  RMS or nothing.  Shady as hell.

[Florida_Audio 55]

2 hours ago, ///M5 said:

I also wouldn't buy that amp.  I am horribly opposed to general rules of thumb in audio as they are all wrong, but there is a rule that everyone should follow.  Never, ever buy an amp that specifies Max power.  RMS or nothing.  Shady as hell.

it does also say the RMS per channels and such.

what brands would you suggest?

thanks for pointing that out

[///M5 2,833]

It is a disgusting lie to list max.  I wouldn't do business with them.  No way no how.  Tons of good brands.

[Florida_Audio 55]

3 hours ago, ///M5 said:

It is a disgusting lie to list max.  I wouldn't do business with them.  No way no how.  Tons of good brands.

ok, cause alot of products like speakers list max and RMS. but i see you only mentioned amps? maybe because the amp is what powers everything else, and the true number of watts is most important from the amp?

 

 

So, would you guys say that amp kit is good enough?

Speakers are 110 RMS each, speaker wire is 16 gauge

Edited March 23, 2016 by Florida_Audio

[Florida_Audio 55]

23 hours ago, lithium said:

wow are wiring kits that expensive now... 

just run 4 gauge now and save yourself some hassle if you decide to add more power. 

this is probably a decent option. though 12 gauge speaker wire is way pucking over kill. 16 gauge is plenty

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/amp-installation-kits/sp/complete-4-gauge-4-channel-amplifier-installation-kit-/

 

this kit you posted is cheaper than the kit i posted, but also seems much better?

is it missing anything that the kit i posted has?

this one you posted seems better in every way? and same price?

[lithium 358]

the nvx kit is around the same price as the big brands like kicker or rockford probably. 

[Florida_Audio 55]

1 hour ago, lithium said:

the nvx kit is around the same price as the big brands like kicker or rockford probably. 

my bad, i meant to say its around the same price yes. but i was wonder if its a better kit? and if it is better and the same price, then i should get the better one ?

[lithium 358]

the knu kit is better, 4 gauge copper > 8 gauge copper. no question

[Florida_Audio 55]

2 hours ago, lithium said:

the knu kit is better, 4 gauge copper > 8 gauge copper. no question

ok i thought so, but idk i found it a bit odd that the same brand i bought, for the same kit but with gauge 4 wire costs $120! but then this gauge 4 wire kit costs $60. im questioning if something is missing from the kit thats different between the two? i know these things often cost different, but for something such as wires, i didnt think the price difference would be this large.

is it possible the "other" items that come with the kit are that much different? is KNU a decent quality brand? just hope if i buy the cheaper gauge 4 wire, i can know if i need to purchase something else in addition to it for the amp kit to be hooked up? Thanks!

both are oxygen free which seems nice. and i like i always hear, its better to get better wire, than just the minimum needed!

thanks.

Edited March 23, 2016 by Florida_Audio

[Florida_Audio 55]

It looks like theres more pieces to the kit i originally posted about? Do i really need all of those pieces? I honestly have no clue what half of these pieces do? Just wondering if i get the other kit, thats same price and gauge 4, will I need to purchase anything else for the amp and speaker installation? Maybe a bit more speaker wire, but I think thats it?

 

This comes with the original kit:

1. 20 ft. (6.1 meters) Frosted Blue 8 gauge power wire with seamless crimp ring terminal
2. 3 ft. (.91 meters) Frosted Gray 8 gauge ground wire with seamless crimp ring terminal
3. 20 ft. (6.1 meters) Clear 18 gauge remote lead wire
4. 65 ft. (19.8 meters) Frosted Gray/Blue 16 gauge speaker wire -- includes a 40 ft. pack and a separate 25 ft. pack
5. One 16 ft. (5 meters) 4-channel twisted construction RCA interconnect Cable (NVX XIV45)
6. One NVX XMANL04 ANL/Mini-ANL Fuse Holder with 60 amp Mini-ANL fuse
7. One 5/16" black rubber firewall grommet
8. Two 8 gauge spade terminals
9. Two black 16 gauge nickel-plated spade lugs
10. Three blue 16 gauge nickel-plated spade lugs
11. One black 18 gauge spade terminal
12. Two 18 gauge red butt connector
13. Ten 4" black zip ties

 

This comes with the kit you suggested:

• 18 Feet 4 Gauge Blue Kolossus Fleks Power Wire
• 3 Feet 4 Gauge Black Kolossus Fleks Ground Wire
• One Waterproof Mini-ANL Fuse Holder with 120A Fuse
• TWO 5 Meter Bassik Kable Black OFC RCA Cable with Built in Turn On lead
• 20 Feet BLUE Kord Kable OFC 12 Gauge Speaker Wire
• 2 Gold Plated 4 Gauge Ring Terminals, 2 Gold Plated 4 Gauge Spade Terminals
• Split Loom and wire ties

 

 

What about this kit. its very similar to the one you posted buy costs a few bucks more. whats different? is it better? Im still not sure what im looking at as far as differences between these parts. They all seem the same to me :[

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/amp-installation-kits/sp/kolossus-fleks-4-gauge-amplifier-installation-kit/

This comes with:

• 18 Feet 4 Gauge Red Kolossus Fleks Power Wire
• 3 Feet 4 Gauge Smoke Kolossus Fleks Ground Wire
• One Waterproof Mini-ANL Fuse Holder with 120A Fuse
• One 6 Meter 2 Channel Karma RCA Cable
• 20 Feet Karma SS 12 Gauge Speaker Wire
• 2 Gold Plated 4 Gauge Ring Terminals, 2 Gold Plated 4 Gauge Spade Terminals
• 6' Split Loom, 20' Remote Wire, and wire ties

Edited March 23, 2016 by Florida_Audio

[///M5 2,833]

Perhaps a planned layout would answer your question.  Everything is specific to YOUR car so generically answering if a kit is okay isn't going to help.  Hopefully one of these times you read YOUR you will finally get it.

[Florida_Audio 55]

On 3/22/2016 at 1:23 PM, ///M5 said:

I also wouldn't buy that amp.  I am horribly opposed to general rules of thumb in audio as they are all wrong, but there is a rule that everyone should follow.  Never, ever buy an amp that specifies Max power.  RMS or nothing.  Shady as hell.

 

23 hours ago, ///M5 said:

It is a disgusting lie to list max.  I wouldn't do business with them.  No way no how.  Tons of good brands.

Thanks for pointing this out. Even after you said this..... i still thought the amplifier was in RMS under the description of it....

I was wrong. i confused the 4 ohm and 2 ohm, and this made me think the 4 ohm was in RMS, because it was a smaller number of watts. but its just the difference between 2 ohm and 4 ohm.....

so basically the amp is 4 ohm at 125 watts, NOT RMS. So its really probably around 62.5 RMS?

my speakers are rated at 110 RMS. So either way, this amplifer CANNOT power my speakers to their optimal potential. it can power the speakers, but just not that great.

Would powering my speakers at 62.5 RMS be a big difference from powering them at 110 RMS? obviously its hard to answer, but taking a guess, i would assume it would be quite noticeable?

Whats an amp you would suggest thats cheap, but decent quality, and can power my speakers well?

I messed up big time, thinking that amp was in RMS.... Thanks.... Im pissed at myself, i thought i read it correctly before, even after you pointed it out! My bad....

[///M5 2,833]

Ha.  I've seen manufacturers claim 150w peak on a 10w rms amp.  Shady bullshit.

 

Either way don't buy that Crap and STOP thinking you need 100w for your speakers as that is irrelevant as well.  Just buy good amp.

[Florida_Audio 55]

1 hour ago, ///M5 said:

Ha.  I've seen manufacturers claim 150w peak on a 10w rms amp.  Shady bullshit.

 

Either way don't buy that Crap and STOP thinking you need 100w for your speakers as that is irrelevant as well.  Just buy good amp.

Why is the RMS being sent to the speaker irrelevant?

if the speaker is rated at 110 RMS. i would think supplying 110 RMS would help make it sound much better than if i only supplied it with 65 RMS?

 

by good amp, what brands would you suggest? im aware of big company names, such as pioneer and alpine. But ive seen MANY other brands and not sure if they are also good to get, because they are cheaper priced. But ive heard cheaper amps rated at same RMS can sound a bit worse than a better quality amp with the same RMS rating and same class as in A/B.

 

WTF? now this VERY similar zeus amp is says RMS..... and its only 10 bucks more. this true RMS?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_94886_Hifonics-Zeus-ZRX1016.4.html

Hifonics Zeus ZRX1016.4

How and why?

So because this lists it as RMS..... wtf? might be a typo and should not have RMS?

 

Compared to this one that does not say RMS

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44492_Hifonics-Zeus-ZRX1000.4.html

Hifonics Zeus ZRX1000.4

 

 

Also, as far as safety for car battery being able to run an amplifier, do you look at the peak watts or RMS. I thought the RMS is what matters as for car battery? But maybe its the peak watts?

Edited March 23, 2016 by Florida_Audio

[Florida_Audio 55]

3 hours ago, ///M5 said:

Ha.  I've seen manufacturers claim 150w peak on a 10w rms amp.  Shady bullshit.

 

Either way don't buy that Crap and STOP thinking you need 100w for your speakers as that is irrelevant as well.  Just buy good amp.

Is looking at the fuses a good way to calculate the actual RMS on the amplifier? If the real RMS is not listed?

Or does the fuse only show the maximum possible RMS of the amplifier? But the actual RMS is most likely much less than what the fuses are capable of?

[///M5 2,833]

2 hours ago, Florida_Audio said:

Why is the RMS being sent to the speaker irrelevant?

if the speaker is rated at 110 RMS. i would think supplying 110 RMS would help make it sound much better than if i only supplied it with 65 RMS?

 

You will hear absolutely no difference between 65w and 110w RMS.

2 hours ago, Florida_Audio said:

by good amp, what brands would you suggest? im aware of big company names, such as pioneer and alpine. But ive seen MANY other brands and not sure if they are also good to get, because they are cheaper priced. But ive heard cheaper amps rated at same RMS can sound a bit worse than a better quality amp with the same RMS rating and same class as in A/B.

 

WTF? now this VERY similar zeus amp is says RMS..... and its only 10 bucks more. this true RMS?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_94886_Hifonics-Zeus-ZRX1016.4.html

Hifonics Zeus ZRX1016.4

How and why?

So because this lists it as RMS..... wtf? might be a typo and should not have RMS?

 

Compared to this one that does not say RMS

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44492_Hifonics-Zeus-ZRX1000.4.html

Hifonics Zeus ZRX1000.4

 

 

Also, as far as safety for car battery being able to run an amplifier, do you look at the peak watts or RMS. I thought the RMS is what matters as for car battery? But maybe its the peak watts?

There are a ton of good brands.  Just don't buy ANY that advertise max.  That is crap.  And you NEVER look at the max watts.  Easy enough to say that a 50w RMS amp makes 1000w peak and make it happen, but it will net you nothing positive in the sound.  Power also tells you jack about the battery or wiring size, at least not without a stated efficiency.

You need to stop looking at ANY numbers pretty much.  Reputable products that are built well and will be serviced are the target, not some marketing bullshit numbers.

[///M5 2,833]

50 minutes ago, Florida_Audio said:

Is looking at the fuses a good way to calculate the actual RMS on the amplifier? If the real RMS is not listed?

Or does the fuse only show the maximum possible RMS of the amplifier? But the actual RMS is most likely much less than what the fuses are capable of?

NO, DO NOT BUY AN AMP THAT DOESN'T HAVE THE RMS LISTED.  NEVER EVER!!

I understand you want to buy what you thought you found and were looking for re-assurance on a car audio forum, but you won't get it and if you keep asking the same question trying to force an answer that will never come people will stop reading your threads and taking you seriously.  We can't help you, only you can help you and it is starting to seem like you don't want help.  Please prove me wrong.

[Florida_Audio 55]

2 hours ago, ///M5 said:

NO, DO NOT BUY AN AMP THAT DOESN'T HAVE THE RMS LISTED.  NEVER EVER!!

I understand you want to buy what you thought you found and were looking for re-assurance on a car audio forum, but you won't get it and if you keep asking the same question trying to force an answer that will never come people will stop reading your threads and taking you seriously.  We can't help you, only you can help you and it is starting to seem like you don't want help.  Please prove me wrong.

 

I was then looking at a pioneer class D amplifier that has RMS listed, and well its pioneer, as far as i know, its a great brand

but its a class D amplifier not AB. Class d should be more efficient(use less power) but i have heard people say it sounds a bit worse than an AB amplifier?

this amp is pioneer, but its Class D

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63974_Pioneer-GM-D8604.html

Pioneer GM-D8604    600W Class FD 4-Channel GM Digital Series Amplifier

Can i ask why you said a speaker rated at 110 RMS would sound no different if listening to it, when its powered at 65 RMS versus 110 RMS?

I thought giving it more power for its rated RMS, should help with making the mids sound more clear and full?

Thank you. I apologize for asking so many questions, its just that im trying to learn each detail and such, and i have been known to be stubborn, but i am learning and listening!

Edited March 24, 2016 by Florida_Audio

[///M5 2,833]

The noise floor in your car is ridonkulous compared to a dedicated listening room.  You won't hear a difference between A/B or D or T, there is no real standard for testing power or reporting it at a certain voltage and companies are shady, once you've got enough power so you aren't railing the rails you'll have plenty of dynamics.  So sure, when in doubt go for more power but don't buy a piece of crap.  

I have zero experience with new Pio amps.  Had 4 that fail (circa 1994ish) quickly, but that was a long time ago and is irrelevant other than it means I still don't buy them personally.

[Florida_Audio 55]

1 hour ago, ///M5 said:

The noise floor in your car is ridonkulous compared to a dedicated listening room.  You won't hear a difference between A/B or D or T, there is no real standard for testing power or reporting it at a certain voltage and companies are shady, once you've got enough power so you aren't railing the rails you'll have plenty of dynamics.  So sure, when in doubt go for more power but don't buy a piece of crap.  

I have zero experience with new Pio amps.  Had 4 that fail (circa 1994ish) quickly, but that was a long time ago and is irrelevant other than it means I still don't buy them personally.

ok thanks. i might try and check out some other popular name brands for prices, but so far this pioneer seems the cheapest 4 channel amp that has RMS listed and 100 RMS per channel seems good enough for my speakers that can run 110 RMS. close enough.

I guess CEA compliant only pertains to the RMS rated output, would be cool if some people did some real tests between the difference class amps. but since im not too knowledgeable about why one might sound better, or the degree to which it would cause a change in sound, i cannot comment if it really would be noticeable. im aware that humans can only hear within a certain frequency range and such, so many things that a computer can pickup, would not matter for humans. or even if some things can be picked up by human ears, its a matter of to what degree its noticeable and such. but since im doing this build, i would like to do things right once, instead of having to redo stuff. but then again, nothing is ever perfect, theres always room to learn and improve :]

but sorry for bother, i do appreciate your responses! you do seem very confident in your responses and seem to have had quite alot of experience with these many things.

But maybe not something too lengthy, but curious why you said i wont notice a difference between 65 RMS to 110 RMS being sent to my speakers?

also my bad, but what do u mean by "railing the rails". i assume something about using just barely enough power to get by? not sure though.

Edited March 24, 2016 by Florida_Audio

[lithium 358]

no real point to doing that sort of testing unless your steve meade and you've cooked up another shitty plan to fleece idiots out of money. 

 

best to ask around on forums like this one for suggestions based on budget, size, and power requirement. 

new folks to car audio always seem to believe that matching amp power rating to speaker power rating is some sort of requirement. power rating for a speaker is just the thermal rating for a given period of time before the coil burns up. Amp power rating is equally irrelevant. I think you need to spend some time learning how speakers and amps work. This website is an old favorite of mine, http://www.bcae1.com/