Dodge dash speakers

[Billy Jack 145]

2013 Dodge Avenger speakers what ohms?

[Billy Jack 145]

I have a 2013 Dodge Avenger and need to know what ohm the door and dash speakers are. I'm replacing the door speakers with JL C2 61/2's components and I have a Alpine hu 137bt with add on Alpine power pack powering my speakers. I have already replaced the rear 6x9's I'm just wondering if the front stage is 2 ohm speakers instead of 4ohm like I'm gonna use to replace, and if this will cause me problems. I already have the factory's playing off my alpine hu and power pack.

[///M5 2,833]

Take a step back.

No rears, no dash speakers.  Unplug that shit.  Will just make it sound like crap.

Front speakers will be whatever impedance you buy.  No matter at all what the stock are since you have an aftermarket h/u.

[edouble101 314]

11 hours ago, ///M5 said:

Take a step back.

No rears, no dash speakers.  Unplug that shit.  Will just make it sound like crap.

Front speakers will be whatever impedance you buy.  No matter at all what the stock are since you have an aftermarket h/u.

What?

I am using midrange/tweeter speakers mounted in the dash and midbass speakers mounted in the front doors. Works very well with a little processing. Hell without any processing, only fader/balance adjustments, it was better than most could achieve with a midrage in the door and a tweeter in the sail panel.

[edouble101 314]

17 hours ago, Billy Jack said:

I have a 2013 Dodge Avenger and need to know what ohm the door and dash speakers are. I'm replacing the door speakers with JL C2 61/2's components and I have a Alpine hu 137bt with add on Alpine power pack powering my speakers. I have already replaced the rear 6x9's I'm just wondering if the front stage is 2 ohm speakers instead of 4ohm like I'm gonna use to replace, and if this will cause me problems. I already have the factory's playing off my alpine hu and power pack.

Go to Crutchfield.com and enter your vehicle information. That'll help you with some of your questions. 

To start, I wouldn't recommend changing out the front/rear door speakers. In fact, adjust your fader to the front. You are blessed with dash mounted speakers from the factory. By maximizing this location with a better speaker and a little fader/balance tuning you can actually achieve a decent sound stage. A "sound stage" is the perceived image that you hear. It should be reproduced as the recording engineer intended. This picture illustrates this "sound stage".

There are a lot of variables to consider when trying to reproduce a coherent sound stage in a vehicle. In the end it comes down to how important it is to you and how much money you have.

The cheapest and easiest way to achieve a better than stock sound stage and overall "better" sound is to replace the dash speakers. There are a few caveats, you have to replace the dash speaker with the right speaker <------ important. Not all speakers are the same and the best speaker for your installation is not the most expensive speaker you can find!

Ironically I have done thorough testing on a group of (12) 3" speakers. BTW your dash speaker is ~3". Again, ironically, the most expensive speakers in the group were not necessarily the best. 

The day I bought my '15 Sonata I came home and ripped out the factory 3" dash speaker and replaced them with Faital Pro 3FE22. Now, keep in mind I had previously tested (12) 3" speakers and I knew which one would best fit this vehicle based on size, acoustics and limitations (factory head unit). Some reasons why the 3FE22 works so well in our vehicles : 

1. Slight trimming of the speaker and it is a drop-in replacement.

2. It has a high efficiency - this high efficiency driver naturally raises the sound stage to dash level. The spl of this speaker is great than the door speakers, AKA it is louder.

3. It has a wide FR. The frequency response of this driver is fairly wide. It will cover up to "tweeter" frequencies and lower midrange. You will notice an increase in treble frequencies. Cymbals will be clearer and more pronounced, female voices will all be clearer than stock and male voices will be deeper with a greater presence. 
 

[Billy Jack 145]

I already have the JL components for my doors. I just need to know what ohms are the factory speakers. Do the factory door speakers, and dash speakers run off the same channel, like a component set at 8ohms a piece for a 4 ohm load combined, or are they separate speakers that are 4ohm. SSA has a sundown replacement for the dodge dash speakers but it doesn't say what ohm they are. 

[StreetLegal 119]

the sundown speakers are 4 ohm impedance

[///M5 2,833]

9 hours ago, edouble101 said:

What?

I am using midrange/tweeter speakers mounted in the dash and midbass speakers mounted in the front doors. Works very well with a little processing. Hell without any processing, only fader/balance adjustments, it was better than most could achieve with a midrage in the door and a tweeter in the sail panel.

Read what he is proposing again before getting butt hurt lol

[///M5 2,833]

9 hours ago, Billy Jack said:

I already have the JL components for my doors. I just need to know what ohms are the factory speakers. Do the factory door speakers, and dash speakers run off the same channel, like a component set at 8ohms a piece for a 4 ohm load combined, or are they separate speakers that are 4ohm. SSA has a sundown replacement for the dodge dash speakers but it doesn't say what ohm they are. 

Why? It is completely irrelevant in your install.

[Billy Jack 145]

How is it irrelevant? I need to know what ohm cause if there 2 8ohm speakers running off one channel at 4ohms and I replace them with 2 4ohm speakers my alpine head unit and power pac doesn't drive 2ohm loads as far as I know. I don't have the paper work or anything that came with the power pack but I know it was rated for 50x4@4ohms. 

Edited May 15, 2016 by Billy Jack
Left something out.

[///M5 2,833]

You have stock speakers you aren't using.  They are irrelevant.

You bought new speakers, they are rated in ohms.  That is what you need to worry about.  Those are the ones that apply the load to your amp, the stockers don't matter.

Also, seriously get rid of the rears.  Horrible waste.

[Billy Jack 145]

Actually right now I am using the factory dash and door speakers. The only ones I have installed is the rear JL C2 6x9's. I had to mount my JL 61/2's and tweets to a custom bracket to make them fit the door 6x9 location. I'm now ready to take out the factory door 6x9's and install my 61/2's and tweeters. Now I gotta get some JL 31/2's for the dash. All in all in sounded decent running the factory highs but they can't keep up with the rear JL 6x9's. I had to move the  fade to the front a couple of clicks to make it sound right. Whenever it rains again and my business slows down I'm gonna mount the door speakers and crossovers then it should sound as good as it did in my last car. And I like rear fill it takes a lot to keep up with this 13w7. Just 2 JL 61/2's and tweets want do it.

[///M5 2,833]

1 hour ago, Billy Jack said:

Actually right now I am using the factory dash and door speakers. The only ones I have installed is the rear JL C2 6x9's. I had to mount my JL 61/2's and tweets to a custom bracket to make them fit the door 6x9 location. I'm now ready to take out the factory door 6x9's and install my 61/2's and tweeters. Now I gotta get some JL 31/2's for the dash. All in all in sounded decent running the factory highs but they can't keep up with the rear JL 6x9's. I had to move the  fade to the front a couple of clicks to make it sound right. Whenever it rains again and my business slows down I'm gonna mount the door speakers and crossovers then it should sound as good as it did in my last car. And I like rear fill it takes a lot to keep up with this 13w7. Just 2 JL 61/2's and tweets want do it.

Adding the 3.5's and the 6x9's do nothing with helping the system "keep up", they do completely fuck up the sound stage though.

You CANNOT run the same amp in parallel to the 3 1/2" and the 6 1/2" speakers.  That will really sound like shit.

Seems like everything you've read elsewhere has you very confused on what to do.  You should re-evaluate what you thought you knew before spending/wasting any more money.

The JL 6x9's and 3 1/2's are garbage btw...

[Billy Jack 145]

I didn't read it any where I design my systems from personal experience. And my last car had the same system minus the dash speakers and its sounded awesome. And I like the sound the JL's make. Yes there are louder but not many that sound as good at such high levels. 

[Billy Jack 145]

Ow and the 31/2's and factory 6x9's are already running parallel off the same channel and its sounds great but yes that could change when I add the 61/2 components. If it doesn't sound right I will unhook the dash 31/2's. 

[Billy Jack 145]

Hell even edouble said the replacement dash speakers worked really good in our vehicles. So it's a 2-1 vote there ssa tech.

[///M5 2,833]

He is using his COMPLETELY differently

You just need to hear any car that stages right and sounds good and you'll be enlightened.

[Billy Jack 145]

M5 I'm almost 40 and have been building systems and competing since the early 90's trust me I have heard them all from $20k SQL installs up to walls of 18's in competition vehicles. I know what proper sound staging is and like I said I'm gonna try replacing all my factory speakers first and if it doesn't sound right I will unhook my dash speakers. Right now it sound really good but the rear fill does over power the front stage a little but at a couple of clicks of fade and it's fine I'm pretty sure changing out the doors is gonna take care of that. I know some people don't like rear fill or thinks it's a waiste but I prefer it in a mid size 4 door car.

Edited May 16, 2016 by Billy Jack

[///M5 2,833]

The way you have it setup it is not rear fill but a second stage which is horribly deconstructive.

[Billy Jack 145]

So what do you consider rear fill. I always assumed if you had components up front and coaxial's in the back it was considered rear fill. Is 4 speakers at 4 corners not the way to go. And I'm talking about without the dash speakers of course. I know 6 speakers throws it off but is 4 not the way to go for proper sound? 

[Billy Jack 145]

Ow and I'm not trying to come off as a know it all I'm not I still have a ton to learn I'm just asking questions so I can learn the proper way to run my system. I have always just ran components up front with the tweeter as close to my ear as possible and a couple coaxial's in the rear and adjusted it to blend together. I always assumed this would give concert like sound. I always thought it sounded good when one guitar plays on one side and then all hit. 

[///M5 2,833]

 

1 hour ago, Billy Jack said:

So what do you consider rear fill. I always assumed if you had components up front and coaxial's in the back it was considered rear fill. Is 4 speakers at 4 corners not the way to go. And I'm talking about without the dash speakers of course. I know 6 speakers throws it off but is 4 not the way to go for proper sound? 

It isn't what I consider, but what it is.  Rear fill would be with some logical band pass and filtering such that the rears don't destroy the front stage.

As for the four corner question, no it is a terrible idea.  If you had music that was specifically recorded in four channel you could make the argument it could make sense although it is much more logical to not use the rears at all.  See the picture of the soundstage up earlier in this thread.

I have an Escalade.  It is HUGE compared to your car.  The rears are not at all connected to the stereo.   No rear passenger ever complains either.  Adding the rears doesn't make it louder, just makes it sound worse.  There are no compelling reasons to run rears playing the same source as the fronts.  Complete waste of money.

Add to that the market for 6x9's is teeny so all the choices are garbage.  You really don't want rears.

You will have the same problem if you add dash speakers to your components.  Will just screw things up.  If instead you ran a bandpassed midbass in the doors and a full range driver in the dash perhaps, but bouncing tweeter frequencies off the window is really hard to get to sound good so then you'd need a 3 way which is rather complicated.  Just bridge your amp to the front components you have and when it is missing something ask how to improve it.  Everything else you propose to do is a waste of cash.

[Billy Jack 145]

Well I already have  the system except the dash speakers so I'm not spending any money per say. I have ran just components up front before but honestly I prefer the sound of 4 corners. I like to fill as thought I'm surrounded by music and have it set so it sounds like I can't tell where the music is coming from. I had the setup your talking about in my last truck and yes it did sound good but I like the 4 corners with components up front. Now if I had room for rows and rows of front stage then yes I'm sure that would sound better No doubt. But thanks for the patience in explaining this to me I do understand what your saying about proper staging or sounding like you have a stage in front of you.

Edited May 16, 2016 by Billy Jack

[///M5 2,833]

How is the install?  Normally when you think it sounds better with rears it means the front install is jacked.

Interested in pictures of the baffle, deadening, mlv....sure we can help fix it so you can sell off those rears happily.

[///M5 2,833]

If they are just bolted in place of the stock speakers, then you have a TON of improvement for not much money that can be done.