Jump to content
Billy Jack

JL 13w7 box for best spl how many cubic feet

Recommended Posts

I need to know what the best size box would be for a JL 13w7 for spl. I have always heard most manufacturers give smaller then optimal size requirements just to sell subs and to lower power handling so they have less warranty claims. Looking for anybody who has experience with these subs who can tell me what's the best cubic feet to get the max out of these subs. I'm running them off the JL HD1200/1's in a 2013 Dodge Avenger R/T. Pretty big trunk just small opening may have to build box in place. I want to run ported for more output but still be musical. Also need to know tuning.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

SPL and musical are two polar opposites.  Have to choose your compromise.

ie, the loudest setup is the peakiest which is the opposite of musical which has a flat response.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I meant like not just a burp box like I'm gonna be playing music on it not just sign waves for competition guess I should have said that my bad. How many cubes and what tuning would you recommend to tear the roof off this dodge.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Again tear the roof off ia a fart canon, playing music a flat response.  What compromise do you want?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Seems like he wants it to sound good on music and get decently loud.  I would tune around 33-34 . Not forsure what they recomend on enclosure size 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A 13W7 on 1200 watts should be very loud unless you're doing something wrong.  If I were you I'd lean toward the musical side and go for a flatter response curve.  I just hooked my 10" XCON, it's in a large ported box and it's loud enough on 500 watts and sounds GREAT, but "loud" is such a relative term...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know what JL recommends but I have always heard that it's better to go a little bit bigger for more output. Just asking the experts what there take on the go bigger rumor. Right now I have them in the factory prowedge box's but only one would fit because of how tall they are so I'm gonna build a dual slop port enclosure for them both. So is it true your better off to go bigger or is that just internet b.s? I probably can't go to much bigger but maybe a little. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ow yea it is loud but I'm hard of hearing and just want more spl then sq. And it will be 2 13w7 on 2 HD1200/1's so 2400 watts. Right now it is just one sub and one amp but as soon as I get the box built and beef up my electrical I'm gonna run them both.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Measure your max dimensions and go from there. Use a box building program such as Torres or Winsid

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Measure your max dimensions and go from there. Use a box building program such as Torres or Winsid

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ow that's exactly what I'm gonna do, but I was just wondering if I should go a little bigger if possible, or just build it to JL's specs. Would a bigger box and slightly higher tuning give me more output? Thanks for the reply. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats hard to say honestly but it could. What are you meaning by bigger, do you have an idea of how many cubes per foot your shooting for?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats hard to say honestly but it could. What are you meaning by bigger, do you have an idea of how many cubes per foot your shooting for?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What do you have them in now and what do you want to improve?

The only way anyone can help you is to model a 13w7...which would be best if you did yourself.

To me it sounds like you are exactly the customer JL posts its box recommendations for.  If you are unwilling to do the above then follow their recommendation.

The only way to learn what sounds better is to reflect on what you have so that when you make a change you know what caused it.  The box here is like the rears.  Don't just unplug them, but learn why/how.  Same in the box.  You have an opportunity to make yourself way more knowledgeable, personally I'd take it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well JL recommends 2.35 but I was thinking 3 cubes a piece. And maybe going a little higher on the tuning.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ow and like I said before I have them in the sealed JL manufactured pro wedge box. It's not very big at all just tall mostly. My box will be shorter and a lot deaper.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
32 minutes ago, ///M5 said:

What do you have them in now and what do you want to improve?

The only way anyone can help you is to model a 13w7...which would be best if you did yourself.

To me it sounds like you are exactly the customer JL posts its box recommendations for.  If you are unwilling to do the above then follow their recommendation.

The only way to learn what sounds better is to reflect on what you have so that when you make a change you know what caused it.  The box here is like the rears.  Don't just unplug them, but learn why/how.  Same in the box.  You have an opportunity to make yourself way more knowledgeable, personally I'd take it.

A simple yes a bigger box will probably give you more output or no it want help would have sufficed. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Use winsid, model the set up you have now , model jl ported specs, and them play around with box size, and compare the three responses and see what fits your needs.

Edited by StreetLegal
typo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Use winsid, model the set up you have now , model jl ported specs, and them play around with box size, compare the three, responses and see what fits your needs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes that's the plan street legal, but I was just asking if anybody  had first hand experience with the w7's and  knew if the JL specs where best for output (spl) or if I would get a better number from going bigger. I know fat box has a spl box that some say hits like crazy but there is no way to get the specs without buying the $600 box. Just thought somebody on here could give me some insight no big deal though I will figure it out myself. Maybe if I was asking a question about my crescendo amps and sundown subs I would get a little better answer on this site. Probably the JL hate I'm getting.  Lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nobody is hating on JL, I dont care what you run. You get help then bitch about the help you want, man up and chill with the pettiness.

 

Car audio is all about trial and error, either with the pen and paper method or building multiple boxes. What performs well in one box and in one car might not in another and so on. There is a build on SMD with 2 JL 13s i believe, doing 150 out of the trunk. It took a whole lot of trial and error, diffferent boxes and different ports. You want to be spoon fed, we told you at least try winsid and see what it says. Yes in car can be different but it will give you a starting point.

 

Yes a ported enclosure will be louder than you current sealed enclosure, I have now experience with the 13w7 or a proper custom box enclosure for one. Search the web or plug in some numbers. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nobody is hating on JL, I dont care what you run. You get help then bitch about the help you want, man up and chill with the pettiness.

 

Car audio is all about trial and error, either with the pen and paper method or building multiple boxes. What performs well in one box and in one car might not in another and so on. There is a build on SMD with 2 JL 13s i believe, doing 150 out of the trunk. It took a whole lot of trial and error, diffferent boxes and different ports. You want to be spoon fed, we told you at least try winsid and see what it says. Yes in car can be different but it will give you a starting point.

 

Yes a ported enclosure will be louder than you current sealed enclosure, I have now experience with the 13w7 or a proper custom box enclosure for one. Search the web or plug in some numbers. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

    1. Recent Topics

        • 17 comments
        • 178 views
        • 393 comments
        • 32,175 views
        • 2 comments
        • 670 views
        • 5 comments
        • 1,446 views
        • 6 comments
        • 1,015 views
        • 1 comment
        • 961 views
  • Similar Content

    • By Blackink
      Getting rid of all my car audio equipment. Prefer to sell the big subs and amps locally in southern California, but I'll ship. Up for grabs:
      P.S. Also giving away for free 50sq ft of RAAM BXT II sound deadener ($175), 15ft of KnuKonceptz 4 gauge ($15), 13ft of Trystar 1/0 gauge ($25) to buyers while supplies last.
      ***(2) BNIB SOUND SOLUTIONS AUDIO SSA ZCON 15" 2250 RMS D1*** These are top of the line daily driver/competition subs. Never been used or plugged in and in original packaging. $375 each shipped.





      ***(2) DC AUDIO LEVEL 4 XL 15" 2000 RMS D1*** Beastly sub with clear lows and clean sound, great as a daily beater. Ran for only a year on upgraded electrical- ho alt, 2 batts, big 3. $275 each shipped.



      ***AUDIOPIPE AP30001D SUPER VALUE CLASS D MONOBLOCK*** Used for a year on an upgraded electrical system with a 275 amp alt, 2 batts, and big 3 pushing a pair of DC Level 4 XL 15" subs. $190 shipped.


      ***ATOMIC AT-5000.1D MASSIVE POWER CLASS D MONOBLOCK*** Underrated and stable at 1 ohm and can be used at .5 for music. Will burp at .25 ohm and heard people burping from .135 ohm. Beastly amps. $575 shipped.


      ***JL AUDIO HD600/4 SEXY 4-CHANNEL*** Bought in very good condition  to use with an sq system that I never installed so they've been sitting around. $400 shipped.




    • By Second Skin
      The awesome guys at Colorado Car Audio just finished a sweet Dodge Ram 3500 Pro Master Van build with full sound and heat insulation along with a stereo upgrade and the work is very nice!!!
      They applied Spectrum and Damplifier Pro CLD to all of the metal to kill vibration noise and help with heat transfer through the metal. They used Luxury Liner Pro MLV+CCF next to block out unwanted airborne noise and thermally insulate the walls. And they used Mega Zorbe Hydrophobic Melamine Foam to absorb sound and thermally insulate the roof of this huge van!!!
      When the proper layers are applied to the correct locations, a huge difference in noise level reduction can be achieved. Setting the stage for a nice and clean platform for your stereo to perform in a much more enjoyable environment....especially with these tin can sprinter vans....treating them makes a HUGE difference in noise comfort levels. 
      Thank you guys for the awesome work and pictures. Thank you for insisting on high-quality Second Skin products for all of your builds. #TeamSecondSkin #SecondSkinUSA #SecondSkinAudio #SecondSkinForTheWin

      Spectrum Liquid Sound Deadening 

      Luxury Liner Pro Mass Loaded Vinyl with Closed Cell Foam infused


      Mega Zorbe Standard Hydrophbic Melamine Foam

      Damplifier Pro


      New Kenwood Touch Screen Head Unit

      Upgraded Stereo System

    • By koodo
      I am looking for advice on which 12" sub to buy, at the moment I am looking between the 12W7 and the 12" AA Havoc.
      Unfortunately, quality subs are fairly rare here in Australia, so I haven't listened to either (have listened to W6 and liked the sound of it).
      My current situation is a 10" Polk MM, mounted in a custom box I built, sitting on the center of the rear seats (in an Isuzu pickup truck so very limited space) but I will build a bigger box for the 12" and place it on the seat behind the drivers seat.
      For me to import either from the US will make the price very much the same, so that isn't really a major factor.
      I am open to suggestions of other subs too, around this league but I would also prefer to not go much over the 1200W RMS.
      I listen to basically anything with heavy bass and some dubstep depending on the mood hahah.
      Cheers
    • By DaVibe
      Without sounding like a complete douche and "Oh, I have so much audio equipment ..." I think everyone knows there's a lot of good pieces out there on the used market. I've got JL w7's and my share of 4-channel amplifiers.
      My question is about the w7, but any car audio equipment for that matter ...
      I know next to nothing about home audio, other than I like it and I'm sure I'll go down this route as I get older (mature / family). In this situation, is it worth holding onto these pieces and trying to make something of it? Or just go on as I would and purchase proper home audio pieces when the time comes?
      The only reason I ask is it would be silly to spend $500 on a 300w home subwoofer when I have a 750w w7 that has home applications as well. And 4 Channels, besides the ghetto look in your living room, could probably run a set of speakers I imagine.
      Thanks for your help. I just don't want to sell off all my equipment (in the process of) and then regret it in 2 years time.
  • Recent YouTube Posts

×