Jump to content
theothermike

voltages needed for sae-1000D and bridged 100.4 @ 4

Recommended Posts

Hey, jacob or whoeevr is helping me out here, i need some input on the voltage im looking for on my dmm to acheive the full rms. I need some clarification on if i did the calculations right.

1st my sub amp, i running it at 1 ohm load to get the rated 1000 rms. so i would do sqrt(1000*1) = 31.6?

2nd (part i don't get) when i run my 100.4 bridged to 2 channels at 325 rms @ 4 ohm load, how do i do the equation?

is it sqrt(325*4) or sqrt(650*4)? so would it be 36 volts, or 51 volts?

I found it really outrageously high for the 100.4 to have a 51 volt supply when bridged, so i hope i right at guessing its 36 volts per channel bridged correct?

Also, would you recommend running a +1 bbe on a alpine headunit when setting gains? And do i put my remote bass knob at halfway when thats the max i go up too when using the remote prior to setting gains?

Mike-

I dont need any links to learn, i read them 100x but i want clarification. We all are humans

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A car, unless you are running a different alternator will only run at around 14.4V when its running (12.5 when off). I am not sure of the exact formula to make the math work out. Ill let Jake bring that out lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mike,

1) If you are setting with a DMM that'll do to get you in the area. Since a subwoofer (or any moving coil transducer) is not a resistive load that is not totally accurate, but it's a good way to get a fairly accurate setting. I always do gains by ear... it works very well for me :) But if you are not comfortable with that, then setting your SAE-1000D at an output of 31.6 volts should get you pretty close.

2) Are you sure you WANT 325 watts per channel from your 100.4? That'll blow most components on the market. You would do it like this:

P = v^2 / R

325 = v^2 / 4

1300 = v^2

v = 36 volts

So 36 volts is the correct answer.

I would suggest setting the 100.4 by ear and let your components tell you when they have had enough. If you set it to a number then there is no telling if the speakers will survive the power when you actually play music on them.

If you plan to use BBE all the time then set the gains with it on. It adds more energy to certain frequencies so if you set it without BBE and everything seems okay it might blow a speaker when you enable it.

3) The knob only turns the gain DOWN. At max level the knob is at whatever the gain setting is on the amp. Set your gains with the knob all the way up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ty, ty, ill actually probably set my component amp at 32 volts or something then as a start.

they are 3 ways and rated at 250 rms, so i cant see why a good 280 - 290 would harm them'

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a word of caution... that 100.4 is a beast. Turn it up nice and slow at first just to make sure your components will take the power... ESPECIALLY if you have BBE enable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

currently at 33 volts which is about 272 watts per side

Quick note, when i was doing my gains, prior to setting them i had to have my fader to the rear 2-3 because it acted as a balance in a way for left and right sound stage. my right speakers were more defined when in the drivers seat, so at fader 2-3 it is a balance of both sides of speakers.

soo when i did my gains, at i did balance 0 and fader 0, and got different voltages. so i set the fader to 2-3 and did my voltages and got a balance of both the voltages. i want to make sure it was a good idea that i set the fader to 2-3 on how i normally listen to it and then set the gains.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Get a 1F2M Y-Adapter then you can use the balance for L & R

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

explain further please, i can use the balance, it just it kinda sounds like what the fader is suppose to do, and it just pulls or pushes the sound in and out i guess, from front and rear.

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You are bridging the 100.4 correct?

If you use a 1F2M Y-Adaptor and split your front right preout to ch 1/2 and the front left preout to 3/4 you will be able to use the balance correctly and move it from left to right and back to center. Right now it sounds like your using the fader (front/back), so you would go front for left and back for right?

explain further please, i can use the balance, it just it kinda sounds like what the fader is suppose to do, and it just pulls or pushes the sound in and out i guess, from front and rear.

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would really like an 100.4 but I would also really like a Hobie Cat...I think Hobie won in my head.

But yes 325w per channel is a lot. Now, what you have created is a lot of power overhead. This is a really good thing for you in the SQ department. Say you set your gains for a maximum RMS with a 0dB sine wave for 100w. Now at your normal listening level you are using say 30w RMS with a 0dB sine wave. This means you can handle wave that has 13dB peaks with out any distortion at all. Where as if you where using a 30w RMS amp for the same level of output it can only handle 3dB peaks with out any distortion...in otherwords...monotone synthesized beats. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

fixxer, this wont downgrade the signal quality at all? if so, thx for the advice and ill be sure to give it a shot when i purchase my new headunit soon, prob gonna be a 880 prs or eclipse 5000 / 5100 or 7000/71000

Mike-

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×