Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone, long time no see. I am selling a pair of Dual 2-ohm (technically D1.7) 12" Sundown X v.2's built by Dave Leib a.k.a "Strongman Designs." 

Reason I am selling them is because I realized upon testing to see if my digital multi-meter was working correctly that one of the coils is reading higher on the one sub indicating that too much heat had been applied to it recently so rather than risking any further damage to it I am going to assume that I have too much power for these.

Having said this in all honesty, let me make it perfectly clear here that both subs are still in perfect working order as we speak, even the one that is reading differently. Had I not thrown my multi-meter on it to test it in order to see if it was working properly (the multi-meter itself) I would have never known there was any difference or discrepancy between the two.  

However, because one of them is reading off now and I do not know what is to be expected out of it's performance long-term I will be letting these go for $500+ shipping (that includes both).

Any further questions or concerns please feel free to text me at 440-915-2309

Phil

599f84f514ad6_unnamed(5).thumb.jpg.7c1044c800a9cc28d7c7470d6bf12394.jpg599f84ed41154_unnamed(4).thumb.jpg.b84349f6ac6a07c4d5687660aeac85bd.jpg599f84e65ea37_unnamed(3).thumb.jpg.ac4f93e3ea8dc7f6f5a7d5343200a371.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Text sent

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One of two sold as of now if one of the Admin's could lock or delete this pls...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

    1. Recent Topics

        • 1 comment
        • 102 views
        • 3 comments
        • 137 views
        • 33 comments
        • 8,138 views
        • 3 comments
        • 222 views
        • 402 comments
        • 35,705 views
        • 6 comments
        • 1,843 views
  • Similar Content

    • By codester
      Been awhile since Ive been on here but I Just purchased back my 2x 15" SSA Icon subs I first purchased around 11 years ago.
      I have/ had them in a 7.2 cubic foot box net tuned to 32 and it sounded great on the bass music and rap/ hip hop I used to listen to but not amazingly accurate/ punchy on rock, etc.
      Im looking to only use one of them in my 2010 Ram 1500.
      I currently have a 10" JL W7 in a sealed box in the truck and it sounds great and I love it but doesn't quite have the output Id like and planning to put 1 of the Icons in the truck.
      Im considering either Ported or sealed. I now listen to mainly bands like chainsmokers, club music, alt rock, heavy rock, and a bit of edm, etc. Looking for it to be very accurate on kick drums but also hit hard so you feel it in your chest.
      According to SSA optimal ported is around 3.5-4 net tuned to around 32hz but Im thinking about tuning a bit higher. Ive done some winisd modelling but its been a long time and just wanting to hear thoughts on these designs.
      My max dimensions are 20" wide, 24" deep by 22" high.
      This is one design i'm considering, is 2.25" wide too thin for port width? im worried about port velocity and noise
      \
      Or if I go sealed this is what im thinking.

       
      Thanks again for any help
       
    • By Ryann627
      I currently own a 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier that I am currently building a subwoofer install in.
      My complete and current installs:
      New Kenwood KDC-BT378U radio with built-in speaker amp, All new door and deck speakers. (COMPLETE)
      Big 3 Kit, Mechman 270 AMP Alternator, (1) Sundown ZV6 12" 2-OHM 2500W Subwoofer (wired to 1 OHM), One run of 1/0 gauge wire complete with fuse and capacitor), Fiberglass Subwoofer Box(Not sure what size yet, any help on this would be greatly appreciated)
      Just wondering if all the above installs with be able to comfortably power a 3000 watt amplifier to run the subwoofer properly? I know Sundown Subwoofers are underrated, just not sure if I want to over-power by more than 500W, seems safer to me like that, unless I'm wrong? Never dealt with this much power before, max was 600 watts before this build.
      Any other install recommendations? Bigger battery because it is stock? Better springs for the added weight in the rear? Box will be fiberglass but the subwoofer alone weighs 95 pounds.
      Thanks in advance guys.
    • By MJS_IraggiAlts
      PRV AUDIO Vocal Speakers....  
      This may not make sense initially, but a high-quality speaker will have less bandwidth than a lower quality speaker... (for the most part)
      Just like a 3- or 4-way system is always better than a 1- or 2-way system.  The narrower the bandwidth the speaker must play the cleaner it will sound.  This will also keep you from asking the speaker to play up to its upper and lower frequency limits which are where it starts to sound "forced" to play those frequencies
      Pro Audio speakers are nothing new to car audio, but I see consumers not really knowing how to properly use them and having some issues which is understandable.  These are totally different than your standard coaxial speaker

      If you look at the graph on the 6mr500ndy, which sounds amazing, you'll see that it can play from 90hz to 12,000hz... but if you narrow it down to what is plays "best" and more "naturally" it’s closer to 200hz to 10,000hz.   Yes, it can play down to 50hz but not efficiently and not as well as 200 and up. Very low volume that would be fine but in what we do with the speaker you will want to cross it over closer to 200-300hz

      I get a lot of PMs asking if this speaker will pick up where my subs leave off?   … around 60-80hz.  I say no but the specs say "yes”. 99-13k so that may be a little confusing if you don’t look at the graph and understand what information it has in it
      So, for someone interested in using this speaker as a voice speaker, which I HIGHLY recommend, you will also need a "midbass" speaker to go with it such as a 10mb800 or 10mb500 or 8mb450.     
      This leads me to another piece of information.  PRV model numbers have an "MR”, “MB", "SW" or "W" in between the size of the driver and wattage of the individual speaker. MR=midrange

      MB=midbass
      W=woofer 
      SW=subwoofer
      This is a general guideline for what the speaker is geared towards. That doesn’t mean an 8mb450 can’t be used for midrange or and 8mr400 can’t be used for midbass.  That is where the graph and interpretation of the graph comes into play
      There is a lot more that goes into designing your front stage or your "voice" speakers that one of these days I’ll try and have a more in depth write up.   The possibilities are endless...



  • Recent YouTube Posts

×