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ncc74656

rockford midbass drivers?

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Posted (edited)

i cant seem to find ANY worth while information on the Rockford 8 and 10" mid bass drivers on their website. no frequency curves, t/s specs, they look like parts express PA speakers to me... does anyone have an opinion on these things? just want to know if i should even consider them

I'm shopping for midbass for my doors in a 3 way active setup, I'm considering JL C7 6.5, ZR 8's, hertz 7" mili's or their 10" SPL. (really just in pre planning stages here)

my truck is loud, i like my music loud, i want acceptable quality and clarity in music but have no intention of ever going anywhere near iasca...

Edited by ncc74656

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No driver is ever worth buying without posted specs.  That tells you the whole story there.

Have you chosen other drivers (midrange & tweeter) and processing yet?  Make a big difference in what midbass you can run...also need the spaces you have of course.

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i havnt really decided on much of anything yet, and yea i bought those crachendo mids years back and they were crappy, they also had no specs.

 

it just kinda threw me that Rockford of all people would have no specs listed for what appears to be a spl driver?

 

in either case I'm leaning towards the c7 or hertz mids/tweets with a larger midbass to better keep up with my sub. the aerospace is the DSP i plan to use and i think I'm going all Rockford for the amps (two 2500.1's, a 1000.2 and a 4 channel of some type)

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SPL drivers have REALLY narrow frequency range so they don't dare post them.  Rockford is smart engouh to realize they sound like crap.

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that narrow range is what i was concerned about with going that route. i figure if I'm doing midbass I'm only using a narrow range anyway so id get more output (80-600 or what not) and then mid range/tweets get high quality. between the store and coworkers ive got a selection of high end parts to listen to but I'm worried i wont be able to get as loud as i want it to be as the drivers are meant for more quality than volume...

 

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Ha, those won't play that low.  They are midranges with large cones they are calling midbasses to confuse people.

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ya know ive seen that a lot... I'm looking for a midbass but they are listed as a 10" mid range... like wtf? who would want a mid range THAT large? the off axis response would be terrible.

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2 hours ago, ncc74656 said:

ya know ive seen that a lot... I'm looking for a midbass but they are listed as a 10" mid range... like wtf? who would want a mid range THAT large? the off axis response would be terrible.

Then don't use them off axis.  I have some 15" midranges.  They fucking wang.  I would NEVER put them in a car.

Stop shopping for drivers and first determine your space.  You've been here long enough to know that!  No one can help without.

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Posted (edited)

determine my space? they are going in the bottom of the doors, that much i know.

 

for midbass most of it will be Omni directional but i cant fit an on axis 10"... the midrange and tweet will be mostly on axis however.

 

end of the day i want midbass that will keep up with my 18" SP4 

Edited by ncc74656

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4 hours ago, ncc74656 said:

end of the day i want midbass that will keep up with my 18" SP4 

That's nonsense without adding a frequency...

4 hours ago, ncc74656 said:

determine my space? they are going in the bottom of the doors, that much i know.

 

for midbass most of it will be Omni directional but i cant fit an on axis 10"... the midrange and tweet will be mostly on axis however.

 

end of the day i want midbass that will keep up with my 18" SP4 

Sorry, determine space meant IB, location, aiming...a ported enclosure is by far the easiest way to get any driver to dig.  Also hard up front.  Regularly a small sub playing up front with a rather limited frequency range is the key to midbass.  To put my comment above in context.  If you want the midbass to keep up at 50Hz with the SP4's output at 20Hz you have your work cut out for you.  Absolutely ported sub with small range.  If it is okay if the sub plays up to 160Hz it is a completely different ball game.  Single driver shopping without purpose in a 3 way system completely comprises the other 2 drivers.  

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well i think I'm going to go sealed vs ported on the SP4 and i think I'm going to go with 2 of them. given this i "think (maybe)" it can play above 80 hz but id have to test this and see just how much of a fall off i get, being an 18 and all i just don't know how high i can go with out having issues. 

 

i am fine with running a sub instead of a midrange up front, i spent a bit of time tonight looking at subs that could possibly be used as midbass up there. my best guess is a useable frequency range of 80-450hz. i think id be wanting the midrange to play around the 400hz if for no other reason than to keep them moving (air flowing) for cooling reasons. given that i was looking at the inifini refrence line and there factory sub replacement 8" woffers. 

i may be off the mark here but i feel like i want a 10 or 12 up in the door (i easily have the space for it) (and id kinda like to be able to say aww man you got a 6.5" midbass, that's nice, i have a 12... lol) big d*cking aside however i do want it to sound good. i was thinking of a sealed enclose because i was worried a ported would create to much of a peak and make it hard to tune the sub and mid transition but maybe ill just have to sit down in winisd and play around with boxes to see if i can get a somewhat smooth response curve.  

from my measurements i have up to 2.7 cubic to use in each front door if i were to either build a box in there OR turn the door itself into the box. if i did go ported id want the port to be as close to the sub as possible right? that would make the phasing/group delay easier to correct for

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i just had an idea, i am planning to do all Rockford amps so maybe i consider the P3 slim line 12's for midbass o.O

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It's a bitch to run something that beefy in your doors.  Not referring to the P3, but the general idea.  Just killing the rattles from a beefy 7 is hard in your dodge, make that bigger and it may drive you nuts.  Enclosure solves that a ton...but is hard to fit.

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i kinda like the idea of trying that... its rare to see, challenge to build, and unique... lol. I'm looking at the P3 and T1 slims at the moment online, i think the T would be a waste tho as its built with more Xmax and power handling that isn't needed for the frequencies i intend to use it in. the subs are stupid cheap (less than a crachendo 10"...) so maybe ill just grab one and see how it sounds in a box at work, guess i could put it in my truck to see how the cabin gain is at those freqs. 

 

there really isn't much to rattle in this truck, you may be right that the doors would make noise but the sp4 i had in there didn't do much in the way of rattles (compared to trunk lids that is). 

 

if i did that i wonder if i could make the hertz mili legend 3" match that volume... guess i wont know that until i know how loud the P3 might be

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My vote would be a 10 inch. I've done 10" and 12" midbass. The 10" had a puncher sound and just sounded more accurate in the desired range.

I think you're on the right track testing a sealed and tuning to the cabin response. I did some testing with the 10" in sealed box and really liked the results. I built the box a little big and just added blocks to get the desired Q.

I'm currently in the process of building some ported boxes in a few sizes, to test the limits the of the 7". We will see how they perform. I honestly think a 10" sealed will smoke the 7" ported though, in regards to output and distortion in the midbass range.

 

 

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yea it may, moving from midrange driver to sub is a big change as far as construction. i threw the Rockford into winisd and ill be damned if it wants to play anything over 190hz with any volume at all. the infinity refrence line holds a pretty nice curve all the way through 400hz. once i get some drivers that look ok on paper ill throw em in a box and see what i get sealed vs ported. 

after looking around i think the 3" and 1" mid/tweet from hertz is what I'm going to go with for my other 2 speakers. they can get killer loud on paper, good brand, good quality, and my co worker has some (not installed) that i can hook up on the board and test the sound of. makes things easier

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I personally would shoot for a sub designed for a small/medium sealed enclosure. This is the guy I've been eyeballing. https://www.parts-express.com/peerless-by-tymphany-sdf-250f75pr01-06-10-paper-cone-subwoofer--264-1654

If you're into more high end, this guy would be sweet. https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-10-subwoofers/seas-l26roy-10-subwoofer-d1001-04-4-ohm/

there is a few other peerless that look promising also.

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There’s a great set of videos by a guy who builds some AWESOME sealed enclosures for some 8’s that would be great to draw some inspiration from. I’ll try to get them posted here...

 

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Here’s Jared’s doors too...

 

 

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0DE5F901-B9E8-44B5-923E-20924B5FC04A.jpeg

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Here’s the ported enclosures I built for the 6.5” woofers in my Bravox 3 way components. They’re .5cuft and tuned to 65hz but have solid output down a little below 50hz. 

 

3F5953E8-EDAA-40BD-846D-7E94A02161B6.jpeg

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C2CCBDB7-7EE5-4C33-95A0-1BB63E5B845F.jpeg

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9 hours ago, ncc74656 said:

after looking around i think the 3" and 1" mid/tweet from hertz is what I'm going to go with for my other 2 speakers. they can get killer loud on paper, good brand, good quality, and my co worker has some (not installed) that i can hook up on the board and test the sound of. makes things easier

STOP shopping for drivers.  You still haven't outlined locations.  You are doing this backwards.  Sort of like shopping for Ferrari's for a family and then realizing there is no backseat.  Don't do that.

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 I'm pretty sure what Sean is trying to say is if you are going to do the midrange in the door, you do not need a midbass with as much range.  And is no need to buy more than what is needed for the application.  If the mid will be up on the a-pillar, you will want a midbass with more top end, for flexibility in tuning. 

Same with the midrange. In the door will require a bigger one, with more top end as it will be off axis.  

He is more adroit at acoustics then I will ever be, so I generally take what he says into account.

 

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i am putting the tweets and mids next to one another (tweet above the mid) in the top corner of the door, the a pillars will not have speakers. i plan to place the passenger side at a slight angle facing the driver and the driver side at a sharper angle to either face on axis or 30 deg off axis. i wont know how this sounds however until i have them mocked in and test it. 

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point of inquiry - having a rough idea of where speakers are going to go, until i choose a driver and try it i wouldn't 'know' how it will sound. the only way i know to do this is trial and error with speakers and placement until it sounds the way i want

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You said on axis before and now they are in your door?  Those two things don't usually work...obviously fiberglass can help.

If they are in the door firing at each other it REALLY changes what you can do in that now you have to focus on off axis response which means your mid and tweet are going to be small forcing you to have a midbass that plays high.

As for how it sounds that is much more about material of drivers and install than anything else.  For what you are doing, I wouldn't buy a single car audio driver.  No way, no how.

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