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Justin3000

Diy Components

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Hey guys, I am maybe looking at doing a Diy component set using the Mli-65 Mach speakers. Right now I currently have 5 1/4inch Alpine type S speakers in Q-logic kickpanels becuase my car is a 94 cavalier which only supports 3 1/2 speakers, so I bought the kicks instead, With that being said I was wondering if there is any way I could make A wooden baffle so that I could mount 6.5inch mids in the kicks? Also how would the Mli-65's work in a Diy component set? I was thinking something like Wiring the Mli-65's directly to an amp, then from the mli-65's run a inline bass blocker to the tweeters do you think that will work okay or am I better off buying a inline crossover?

I don't really want to run the comps active because I would have to purchase a 3rd amp to run my rears, I am the type of person that likes my rear fill and I don't want the rears to run off the hu's power..

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thank you for the help

Justin

Edited by Justin3000

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Can someone find him the link to the 6.5" test. Justin, they did very well for their price and actually beat a few that cost more.

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I think they would make a great mid; however, I completely disagree with your not wanting to run them active. Everyone that I have ever met that is a rear fill fan has changed their mind when they have heard my install and I am sure that would go along with any good install. Do remember that more than 80% of how good a car audio installation sounds is in the install. If you don't go active I'd then highly suggest building some passives, an inline bass blocker or some off the shelf passive will not be a good solution. While you are baffling your kickpods, make sure to reinforce them a bunch as well.

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Wow thanks for all the help, I might go active thats not completly off my list. See I alread have a 4 channel amp which would be perfect for running a component set either being active or passive. I havn't personally heard a active system so I don't know exacally how it sounds, Most of the passive I've heard where at big box companies (bestbuy, futureshop) which I desperatly try to stay away from but the passive components sounded like crap either too harsh or missing midbass. If I go active it would be pretty easy but I worry about blowing my tweeters becuase of tuning but I know when I am pushing things to the max and see going passive would give me a little bit of tweeter protection. I could also go active and just run the rears off the hu, would that work?

Sorry for making this somewhat long..

Hopefully it all made sense..

Thanks Again

Justin

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If you set your gains following a tutorial you shouldn't have a problem with the tweeters. Of course, you need some common sense and the capability to hear a bit of distortion. I highly recommend listening to just your tweeters alone first when you first set things up for that reason. Without any other drivers it should make it much easier to hear your tweeters struggling.

Another quick cure would be to order a set of the Dayton ND-20's. At $4 a piece you could blow them for the fun of it and as a learning experience while setting up the ones you want to blend with your mid.

IMO the Mli65 is a great choice for a first shot at a DIY driver. Mind you I haven't heard one yet, but it fares well by everyone who tests it and the frequency response will make it very easy to blend with a variety of tweeters. Having this flexibility is extremely helpful your first time around. On top of that the value is outstanding. As soon as I get off my arse and drive to Winnipeg I will have a few sets myself :)

The next thing for you is to decide on a tweeter. Are you a metal guy or a soft cone type? Do you have a budget for the tweet?

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Well for tweets I like Soft domes, I get too fatigued with metal/titanium tweeters, I listen to alot of rap and alternative and my goal with this system is to have some great detail I would like to hear the violin and piano playing in the backround. My main goal overall is Sound Quailty but I do play my system loud sometimes.

Buget would be around 120Cad for a pair of tweets

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Crap. I can't find my Solen pricelist. I assume you are in Canada so ordering from Solen probably makes sense. Are you size limited (aka do you need a neo sized tweeter or will a full flanged one work)?

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I beleive my cutout diameter maxes at 2inches and depth I beleive is 3inches. I am in Canada, Near Windsor Ontario.

Also what amp would you recommend for me to go active which I am going to do.. Right now I have a cheap Power Acoustik 4 Channel amp model OV4-600.. Head unit is a Sony Cdx-Mp70 which has high and low crossovers..

Thanks for all your help.

Justin

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I beleive my cutout diameter maxes at 2inches and depth I beleive is 3inches. I am in Canada, Near Windsor Ontario.

Also what amp would you recommend for me to go active which I am going to do.. Right now I have a cheap Power Acoustik 4 Channel amp model OV4-600.. Head unit is a Sony Cdx-Mp70 which has high and low crossovers..

Thanks for all your help.

Justin

Either I am nuts or you haven't read the specs on your headunits crossovers. I believe they are just sub frequency HP & LP and won't have something that works for your mid and tweeter. I hope I am wrong, but I don't think so. This means you are going to need an amp with good crossovers built in and will have to sell yours. That or buy an off board electronic crossover. Depending on the budget for your amps there are some that can surely do this, plus all of them will be an upgrade over the PA anyways.

Are your tweeters going to be real far off axis or mostly on axis?

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Hey Steve, I might take you up on the Blau offer, M5 you're right about my head unit it only has crossovers at 78hz, 100hz and 125hz high and low pass. So I would deffinitly have to buy a electronic crossover which I noticed they range in price from very cheap to like $300-$400.. Would it matter if I buy one of the cheap ones? I did look at the specs of the cheap one and it does have what I need. It has Mid bandpass High and Low filters. High crossover for the tweets at like 2.5khz, 3.5khz and 5khz.

Thank Again everyone for all the help

Justin..

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I wouldn't go too cheap. The cheapest one I'd buy would be a Coustic XM-6.

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Awesome thanks for the link and suggestions, I was looking aat some of the others that where tested and well alot of them look nice. I like the look of the dayton ref's but I am just going to order the Mli-65 mids..

anyother suggestions for a relaxed tweeter?

Thanks for all the help

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How relaxed and how on/off axis will it be?

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Relaxed as in not at all harsh or where they will make the ears bleed. I want to be able to listen for hours without getting fatigued. Not sure what you mean by axis but the tweets will be in kickpanels.

Thank again

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By on axis I would mean pointing at your ears, off axis would be how many degrees away from your ears.

Are you building custom kicks just for the drivers you pick?

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They would be off axis then, I am using Q-logic kicks but I did reinforce them with fiberglass and b-quite sound deadening..

I am not sure how many degrees away they are, I could tell you that they are about 4feet away from my ears..

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In non-metal small format tweets that are good off axis I'd look at:

LPG 25nfa -- in your case they will need to be crossed at around 3k and the Mli's a little lower so you will have some underlap but it could work out really well

Seas Neo (H1396/1397--I forget which is metal and don't want to look) -- known to be an amazing budget performer. This one I haven't heard, but have heard a plethora of good reviews from some people whom I trust

Alpine F1, Scan D2904/6000 -- way out of your budget, but if you find a used set if it were me I'd get 'em. If you do and don't like them, I will buy them from you.

You could also maybe find a set of Seas Lotus tweets used.

I think Solen also sells the Max Fidelity MFDT30Neo which should work well crossed at 2.5k and should also sound good. This is another tweeter I haven't heard.

Hope that helps. If it were me and I had to pull the trigger right now and definitely had to be small format, in your budget, and reasonable off axis I wouldn't hesitate to grab the Seas Neo.

Good luck. Let us know what you decide.

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Nice suggestions Sean.

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Okay guys this is what I've ordered thus far: Coustc XM6 crossover, Seas Neo TFFNC/G04 Textile tweeters, Dayton ND20Fa tweeters ( I bought these because of the great reviews they recieved).

Right now I am still concemplating on Mids, I have talked to Mark which is going to let me test the Mli-65 and see if I like them and I will give a full review. I have also looked at the Dayton Rs 6inch speaker (which also got some great reviews) I will see what I like better and I will also see what I like better out of the tweets..

Thank you again guys..

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Okay guys this is what I've ordered thus far: Coustc XM6 crossover, Seas Neo TFFNC/G04 Textile tweeters, Dayton ND20Fa tweeters ( I bought these because of the great reviews they recieved).

Right now I am still concemplating on Mids, I have talked to Mark which is going to let me test the Mli-65 and see if I like them and I will give a full review. I have also looked at the Dayton Rs 6inch speaker (which also got some great reviews) I will see what I like better and I will also see what I like better out of the tweets..

Thank you again guys..

Check out zaphaudio.com and look at the 6.5/7 mid reviews. I would try either the mach 5 mids and the AA poly mids, for a budget.

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I just ordered 2 of them to replace the mids on my little brother's Alpine SPX-137A component set (since he put a screwdriver through one). I'll post back with my impression after I install them this upcoming weekend.

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I just ordered 2 of them to replace the mids on my little brother's Alpine SPX-137A component set (since he put a screwdriver through one). I'll post back with my impression after I install them this upcoming weekend.
.

I've been following Justin's progress to create somewhat of a budget component set out of the MLI's(which got a great rating on ZapAudio comparo) as a replacement to an old tired set of speakers I've got in my ride. I'm figuring, if I can get something pretty good up front without having to break the bank and is definitely better than your standard 2 way coaxes, I can get rid of my 6x9's out back and just leave those spaces empty for my sub to vent through instead of getting the rattling some do with their trunklids. Maybe even move them to the rear doors...

It'd definitely be interesting to hear how the MLI's measure up to the Alpines on a direct swap Scott.

Michael

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