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tejcurrent

Recomended electrical upgrades

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To get right to the point I'm trying to determine what upgrades are necessary, and most importantly where to get this done.

I installed a 200amp alternator, and 3 batteries with a single run of 1/0 from the front.

I am wanting to run around 8-10kwatts rms, have about 7k now, and want to try to keep my voltage pretty steady. More batteries are in the plan when I figure out how to put them, but I really want some info on the alternators/wire. I have this on 2 btl 18s.

I went to all the local shops here in Myrtle Beach, including alternator specialist shops, and besides the one that wanted way too much for a 300a alt, all of them said they could not get anything above 200amps.

I was thinking about getting 2 200a alts, but none of the shops around here will machine a bracket. Any advice?

If all goes well I'll probably boost up to around 16-20kwatts rms on 4 btl 18s, so Im really trying to plan ahead. This is in my daily driven yukon.

What would be important to keep this system as close the 14.4v as possible? Thanks

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To get right to the point I'm trying to determine what upgrades are necessary, and most importantly where to get this done.

I installed a 200amp alternator, and 3 batteries with a single run of 1/0 from the front.

I am wanting to run around 8-10kwatts rms, have about 7k now, and want to try to keep my voltage pretty steady. More batteries are in the plan when I figure out how to put them, but I really want some info on the alternators/wire. I have this on 2 btl 18s.

I went to all the local shops here in Myrtle Beach, including alternator specialist shops, and besides the one that wanted way too much for a 300a alt, all of them said they could not get anything above 200amps.

I was thinking about getting 2 200a alts, but none of the shops around here will machine a bracket. Any advice?

If all goes well I'll probably boost up to around 16-20kwatts rms on 4 btl 18s, so Im really trying to plan ahead. This is in my daily driven yukon.

What would be important to keep this system as close the 14.4v as possible? Thanks

if you dont mind buying on the net, get a 300 amp alt from iraggi alt. ive heard good things about them. but if your running 7k rms once you get to about 3000 watts or so on the 300 amp alt you will start seeing a drop in voltage. but for DD 3000 watts is more than enuf. but when you want more power turn your car off and run your power through some really good batts (kinetikHC2400's) and you will see that 7k rms for a little while

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So trey i have a question for you as well, ive got an iraggi 200 amp alt (iraggi makes a dang good alt!) and just purchased a kinetik 2400 for the back, and a kinetik 2000 for the front, i have 2 runs of 0 gauge as well. Im going to be pushing around 3000 watts. Are you saying i would meter better with the vehicle turned off? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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I've considered putting some 16v kinetics in my yukon, guys selling $600 for 4. I don't know what the effect of hooking those up to my alt putting out only 14.8. I don't have anything to charge them up once drained either. Could I run multiple 16v batteries without switching everything over? I don't know if that would be safe for the electronics in the vehicle other than the amps.

I want this for DD, but I want more than 'enough' bump :).

I want it to play at extreme levels just driving around, not just for parking/comps.

Is it possible to mix and match alternators-like have the 200 I currently have and add in a 300 to the same stuff? I can't find mounting brackets either, but I will get 2 300s if need be, I just don't know if I have to have matching alts, or whats good in my situation.

Thanks a lot.

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I would reccomend doing a 16v set up if you can do dual alts. A few Kintiks, and 4 runs of 0/1. I have ~5000 on my stock alt and 2 HC2000s and get good voltage, I believe it is becuase of the all the 0 gauge wiring though.

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Most alternators is regulated at 14 volts because it is to remain higher than your battery voltage or else it wouldn't charge the battery.. So in short the 16V batteries won't charge past what the alternator puts out...

You would need to upgrade the alternators for the right voltage (once again Irragi makes them and makes them well) just contact DOM for any question regarding alternators and voltage he is one of the best resources for knowledge... (if you need his email let me know)..

He also has almost entirely pure bolt on alternators so no brackets are needed... Though his alternators are a bit pricey they are WELL worth the investment.... Also note that there is a BIG HUGE difference between 300 amp at IDLE and 300 Amps when cranking the motor....

trust me Dom Irragi knows his chit and knows it well...

And YES you can get dual amp alternators they don't need to be same amperage.... You can use one alternator Purely for your system batteries and the second one purely for the vehicles electrical... Many configurations are available...

Also be sure that your amplifiers are capable of a 16V load

I know we hooked up an amp to a 16v electrical and the amp fried immediately... So just double check that...

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Are you going to be in Daytona out of sheer curiosity? There's going to be quite a few people to talk to about electrical systems there...

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So trey i have a question for you as well, ive got an iraggi 200 amp alt (iraggi makes a dang good alt!) and just purchased a kinetik 2400 for the back, and a kinetik 2000 for the front, i have 2 runs of 0 gauge as well. Im going to be pushing around 3000 watts. Are you saying i would meter better with the vehicle turned off? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

im not positive if you will METER better, however i know when you run off battery power you will get more juice to your amps because you can pass much more current through a kinetik HC2400 than a 300 amp alt. but u must have a good alt to charge ur batt also. hope this helps

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I'd appreciate that email for dom, maybe get a 300a 16v alt just for the audio, pick up 4 of those kinetics, or maybe just some 300a alts with adjustable voltage regulator?

So I might see a benefit if I ran 3 more runs of 1/0? I can get it $2 a foot from a local shop, for the stinger flexible stuff. It's much easier to work with than the 1/0 I was using, and at that price I think I'm going to get 100ft just so I have it in the future because of the rising prices of everything.

I purchased a SS 10000d, supposed to put out ~5300 @ 14.4-1ohm, 5520@ 16v-1ohm. Not a huge difference, so I don't know if it'll be worth all the trouble to switch to 16v.

I don't know how far away daytona is from MB, when is the event where I could find out about the elec. upgrades? There's a classic car show at the beach thu, fri, and sat, I think I'm going to go to see if anyone has anything set up there. It's really more of a classic show than anything for newer vehicles/systems. Last year I think the most extensive work was on an s-10 with several subs in the bed, but it wasn't drawing the kind of current I'm talking about. Also it wasn't a booth, just a guy with a truck.

Let me look at a map of how far a drive that would be, but again, is there a show/event out there and when? Thanks.

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dominick@tds.net

that's his email

Be sure to email him the make/year/model of the vehicle and the Volt of the alternator you want (insuggest you ask himfor a RANGE of prices like 200 -350 amp alternators he will list them with price)

you can ask him questions about running dual alts. (I am certain Steve Meade is running Dominick Iraggi 315+ amp alternators for his tahoe here is a pic of it http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/gallery/a...al_DSC02417.jpg )

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OK, thanks a lot. 1 amp is in Greensboro NC (stated by ups) and should be here tomarrow afternoon. I'm going to wait until I have it hooked up and can actually see what the voltage drop is so I can include it in the email.

Thanks again.

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