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Below 30

Two 15's

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Exterior; 49" long- 24" high- 25.5" deep.

Four 4" diameter by 14" long PVC.

3/4" MDF.

Edited by Below 30

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See if someone can tell the tuning frequency of this setup.

Edited by Below 30

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Its tuned to just over 23 hz. There is a 2.5 dB peak at 25 Hz and the F3 is right at 20 Hz. Not a bad box for those at all. Have you sealed really well around the plug?

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Looks good.

As long as you like it, that's all that matters :)

- Steve

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For once I can say to you Below 30: Good job man! Doesn't that box sound a lot better than your old ones? Listening to peoples advice can't be all bad :)

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Right on man!! That's what I like to see. Any Adire driver with a low tune is just killer!

:slayer:

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It goes down like this. I had the Cerwin Vega AT-15, as my first serious set up, mid 90's (before I knew the internet). I noticed that songs I played on my setup up, seemed to have more low frequency content when I heard them in wicked car systems.

I noticed too, that if I was further away from the speakers, I could hear lower content. I decided to take the components out of the box and leave the 15's in. I put both boxes in a corner, further away. Sure enough, I heard the lower content. Now I needed a dedicated sub box, so I built it at school. I still knew that my Cerwin woofers were not the most amazing drivers compared to car subs and always wondered what the true differences were.

I realized that there is no such thing as car or home sub. The fact was, home amps use to be only able to handle 8 ohms and car subs were nominal 4 ohms. So they can be used anywhere, as long as the amp can handle the lower ohms (Plus there is basically no raw sub-driver market for home). Just getting into the internet at the time, I started seeing car subs and understanding specs. I wanted to try one and see if it would better than the Cerwin. The first "car" sub I went with, based on popularity/commercialized availability, was the RF2215. Put them in and they killed. They went lower and were louder.

Through all this time I never knew anything about box volumes and port tuning. The AT-15 box, just had a short tube in it and I figured that was what venting is all about. Just a cut-out and your done. Because I never actually listened to a properly tuned vented, my non-calculated style sounded good to me. Since coming to forums, is how I learned about port tuning and volumes and all else. I just figured all that stuff was just for people who are just extra serious and liked to do all sorts of calculations for no reason and SPL players.

This is why I stuck to my ways all the time. I just decided this time, since I've made so many boxes, with cut outs, I might as well see what people are talking about. All I can basically say now is, I must mentally erase all the comments I ever made about formulas not meaning anything. My current enclosure actually almost scared me, when I did the tone tests. When I said before that I would get a low frequency response in the low 20's, it was because I had the volume turned half-way up (35 out of 90 on the dial, my listening level, Rotel RSP-1066). At 10 I would hit at around 40-50 but needed 35 to get say 26hz. Thats why when people said my box is tuned to 50Hz, I thought they were just being their usaual selves and trying to be funny.

Now, with my dial at 10 (cause I'm not that serious to use a mic and such, it's just home audio), It hits hard at 23Hz (same decible output as I use to get at 40Hz), truly unbelieveable to me, with the formula. This goes to show, when someone like me hasn't experienced side 2 of a given situation, you'll always believe that side 1 is the only way. I'm just glad that all the forums I've been to, everyone stayed with the "formula" ideology, because thats what made me decide to try it. Now I won't go against the formula for box making again. It's funny to me now, how I defended my way so well, only to see that it was very inefficient.

Now I know that the other forums only saw how wasteful my designs were and was just trying to show me. Fact is, they still went way off the deep-end though and I'm still done with them, but I see the light now. Fact is, I never exposed my self to DIY audio back them and was just going of my Cerwin design, thinking one size fits all. All of you were right and I'm glad I caught on now.

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ummmmm...dat shit outa rattle some teeth! talk about getting evicted.....u might wanna call ur local sesmic people every time u crank that thing

good job....and way to admit ur wrong!! :+1:

oh yeah........

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:

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Just like what I see alot of the serious people saying about playing responsibly from their rides, I already do the same from home. My old place was more a matter of the neighbors had a personal vendetta against me and used the music as a crutch (they played music too, just as I did) to get at me with the landlord and it worked. That won't be a problem at the new area.

I'm glad to admit I'm wrong. Think about it, I'm hitting hard at 23Hz at the same volume level I use to hit hard at 40Hz. All because you people stuck to your guns, which made me want to give it a try.

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I'm glad you're happy with your new box.

I'm sure there's quite a bit of difference between this one and the old one.

Definitely have enough there to rattle your teeth out.

Enjoy it.

- Steve :)

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Holy Tumult boxes batman! I bet that those two badasses completly rock in the new box.

Just curious, why didn't you use pro audio speakon connections? http://www.neutrik.com/content/Products/pr...el2id=204_54361

Every speaker I hook up in our theater uses speakon, as do the amp racks, patch systems, etc. Speakon handles tons of power, and is the standard for mobile speakers.

That said, it's not that important, and I bet it sounds really freaking good. What kind of room do you have to tumults in anyways? I bet that is an absurd amount of bass ;)

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Just like how I understand how to wire up to an electrical socket, a speakon would be easy to do. So that is a good idea. The reason I like sockets, is because you just screw down the heavy gauge bare wire, without needing a quick connect.

From the link, the pictures of the connects from the side seem to show you still need to add quick connects, to attach the wire.

The setup is in the basement, there is not much way the upper levels could handle it.

Edited by Below 30

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Glad to hear you are learning something... there is SO much more to enclosure construction then cutting a few holes amd making 6 sides... Obviously you like to experiment, so try differant things with them... pay attention to how certain differances with the enclosure affect the sound of the drivers... Reading is one thing, but experimenting and listening tells more than a few words on a computer screen ;)

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Glad to hear you are learning something... there is SO much more to enclosure construction then cutting a few holes amd making 6 sides... Obviously you like to experiment, so try differant things with them... pay attention to how certain differances with the enclosure affect the sound of the drivers... Reading is one thing, but experimenting and listening tells more than a few words on a computer screen ;)

Absolutely true,everything I know I've learned thru forums and certain other informative sites available,also by experimenting.You learn alot by trial & error,sometimes costly but for the most part things going right atleast for me

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