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Should I have him sign a waiver or something or just stay away all together?

Question for you guys that might do audio installs on the side. I have a co-worker who wants me to do a full audio install in his 03-06 GMC extended cab truck. I know these trucks very well and told him I could put him together a great sounding setup for way cheaper than the local "custom shop" that quoted $4500-$5000. My work would include: big 3, sound deadening and sealing doors, head unit with steering control harness, component install with tweets in the a pillars, subwoofer install and dual amps with all wiring. Everything would be soldered, heat shrinked, techflex wrapped and mounted solid. What is a good price for install? It will probably take me a full weekend to do it right with my level of OCD and how neat I like my stuff to be. I was thinking $500-$750 lump sum price. FYI, I make about $33/hr at my job for comparison of what my time is worth.

Tough to see in the picture but I got the kitchen and dining all edged up, ready for a roller soon. I plan to do all the edging in the rooms I'm painting and then come through with a roller and knock out the wall space in a day or less.

What kind of base and brand of paint you using?Valspar signature series, $35/gallon. It was just technique error. I wasn't using the right nap on the rollers. It looks much better now that I have a 3/8" nap roller and lather that thing up with up. I also bought a really nice Wooster pro brush last night that does great edging as well as filling in texture.

My mom did my cut in without tape, she's damn good at it. I was rolling the walls and the paint wet looks the same color as the current wall color so it really made it a pain to tell if you're getting good coverage. Sure enough, after it dried and darkened up I could see white spots where the paint didn't get into the texture. The roller I was using was cheap and didn't have long enough fibers on it so it was pretty much just rolling across the surface of the texture. I had to re-roll 3 walls and I was pretty pissed after that, but it looks great now with 100% coverage. Learning experience for sure, the last time I painted was 2005...

I forgot how much fun painting is...

wasting no time diving into the house. Only have a few days to get it up to par to my tastes before I move in

I'll check some local audio shops and see if anyone has that, looks perfect.

I think your over thinking it man. Just grab a distribution block and try it. Should be fine. What I meant was a slightly longer run of 1/0 should be as good as a short 4ga ground. The distribution block I want is sold out on Knuconceptz, damn. I might just run a 1/0 ground for now then buy the distro block when they're back in stock.

Yeah that's my issue is I want both to be grounded at the same point. I'll look into a distribution block, but would a 18" run of 1/0 CCA be enough to ground the amp?

Both are just factory bolt studs that either held spare tire tools or held the plastics in place. I would like to use a bolt through the body, but couldn't find a good place to put it since the fuel tank is right under the sub amp

Here is the bolt on the back wall under the sub amp I was referring to in option B And here is the current ground for the 100.4

So here is my setup in the back of my crew cab: You can follow the blue 4ga OFC and see the power inputs for the amp. My question is in regards to the ground. Right now the 100.4 (on the left) is grounded to the bolt you can see through the carpet almost under that amp. The 1000D is not hooked up yet, but I don't really think a run of 4ga to that same bolt is a good enough ground. Do you guys agree? I was originally planning to put a bolt through the floor right under the 1000D and ground both there, but the fuel tank is directly below that amp. I have 4ga OFC as well as some spare 1/0 CCA. Here are the options I see: A) Get a 1/0 to 4ga reducer for the ground input and run 1/0 CCA to that same ground bolt I'm already using. B) use a bolt on the back wall instead of the floor and run both to that, which would make the sub amp run like 10" or less. The idea here is to make the ground for the 1000D as short as possible for the power it pulls, and the 100.4 can be longer than the sub amp since I'm only using around 50w on my front passive components.. Correct?

Speaking of A/C issues, my girlfriend was having issues it was blowing hot air and so I told her to do a few easy things like check her cabin filter and other small stuff. Well after two days she decides to come to my apartment for me to look at it and halfway here she realized her A/C button wasn't pushed. I never mentioned it to her because I just assumed she tried that haha.

do you have a step into the house or is the threshold on the same grade as your garage floor? Part of the bumps purpose is protect from water intrusion as well