KenC210

Just a bit of an update 12" bulletproof lift kit with icon coil overs sitting on 20x12.50 rockstar II rims with 38's toyo open country.

Just a few pics of it all installed. Just for the clearance for the passengers in the back

Yeah I have just been working on redoing the sub box since I messed up with the aero ports and didn't secure them properly. So I went and changed some specs to make it work as a slot port. The box ended up being slightly wider. Will be posting up some vids here shortly. I will also get a few pics of the box in with the seats up.

Got around to setting up the gains so here is a test vid of the Hertz. I will be needing to fixing the subs box due to some issues with the port rattling so I have the subs at zero gain as of now till I get around to fixing the problem. I know the issue with the ports but I will need to cut out the front baffle and replace it as I will be securing the aero ports a bit better.

Getting the box in for fitting. Also getting the holes drilled for T nuts. After i got the subs mounted in place it was time for the amp. After the power, grounds set, and a double check for everything it was time to finish the rest off... So I got everything playing and had a few issues. I had a tweeter not working which i found the problem which was where I soldered the wires together I guess I pulled the wire a bit to hard and it tore the wire, so I re solder and got it playing. The next big thing i have is with the aero ports are vibrating. I thought I had the in very secure when build the box but I guess not. I will have to try and fix this if I can't come to a decent idea to help prevent the rattle from the ports.

Now on to some updates. I started with the power wire that will be running towards the back. Two runs of of sky high 1/0 glad I was able to fit both runs along the side. The speaker wires from the door and dash wrapped up and will be routed. Then to find a place for the front stage amp. Was hard to come up with a place but however under the front seat was best place, didn't really want to put anything under the seat but I had limited space. So I made a base out of 1/2in mdf so it would be secured. A test fit to make sure it will be fine... Good to go so I will be placing it there. Time to remove all seats again... Now to start with the Audio control LC7i to help me integrate the factory amp to the other amps. Of coarse with a good diagram I got from TundraTalk.net to help me out with which wires are what I was able to knock this out. Now that I was able to get those wires done with the processor time to start cleaning up this mess of wires and start running them where they will go. Got my 12volt turn on relay in place to get the multiple accessories to turn one. Also got the Dakota digital in place while i was running all the wires. The voltage will be read from the sub amp.

It may be around 14ga wire to car audio specs it is true 12awg all copper wire.

So I got a little work done on this beast. First thing I got done was the fire wall bushings. Two runs will be going to the rear. Also added the water proof fuse boxes. Had to make my own speaker wire out of the 12ga wire I had. Black and red colors. Then I ran them along side the existing door wires. After I ran the wires for the woofer, mid, and tweeter I installed all the speakers and reassembled the doors. That's pretty much it for today since I only had a couple hours. Hopefully by this weekend I could get a lot more done.

Get yourself a processor. Chances are you won't be using the audio settings anyway. If you have Bluetooth, usb/aux, satellite radio, or other amenities then no real need for an aftermarket radio.

I will not be replacing the deck. I have an audio control lc7i and I will have to be talking the signals from the factory amp. Thank you, they are actual the factory wheels. At least until I get the lift and will have to be getting new wheels.

So now that I bought my wife a new car she is not driving this truck around, so now I could start some work on it. So I started with some MLV. I removed all the seats and carpet and got started. The truck gutted to start laying the MLV. Finished the MLV on the floor so I put everything back in. So got a little work on the Dakota Digital volt meter to set in place. Have the perfect fit right where the 4wd switch is. Just a temp set and a little trimming for a baffle to fit in so the volt meter will sit nicely. Now it will sit perfectly in there. I did not install yet since I will need to be painting the baffle to match the color of the trim. So after test fitting the 6.5 in the door I found that even with the adapter plates I will still need to create a little space for them to fit. So I made a ring out of MDF and split it in half so it gave me the perfect clearance. So now the doors were already set with CLD tiles and it was time for the CCF to go on. Now this is the carpeting down with the box. Will be painting the port wall in a flat black next.

It actually works very nice given the fact that those are 6" mufflers and it is dumped under the rear seats the drone is really unnoticeable.

Haven't been able to do much work on this thing but I have a small update. I got the BA muffler installed. Found the builder of these wonderful exhaust systems on a Tundra forum so i got on it an order me the muffler. The guy also does other vehicles but I believe he specializes in Toyota custom work. You could find the guys site at http://www.dirtydeedsindustries.com/ he was very helpful and great to work with. Anyway here is the small update of the exhaust. And out with the old...