jlw*22

What are friends for right.

I wasn't talking about you. I was talking to Stu. You have experience, he obviously does not per the questions he asked as evidence. I thought this forum was to help people and protect people from making avoidable errors that may damage the equipment in question. Either way, I don't want to give people advice that can end in a bad way for them. Best of luck at any rate.

I'm not sure thats a good idea. I'm guessing that you don't know the difference between the clean bass and the distorted bass. Some people actually like the type of output they have in heavy distortion. Problem is this can be death to the voicecoil. That is why amplifiers come with gain instructions that tell you to use tones (0db tones at that). The rms voltage is basis for preventing destruction and getting clean output for your long life of close to real sonic reproduction. You can set it then check with real music cranked and you will see the voltage actually will go higher than your rms setting in some cases. Thats where them peak numbers come from, the burst impacts. Either way you go, I wish you luck.

That probably puts you at a high thermal compression. Is a bigger ported box an option for you?

Can't do the photo I get a message that I can't use the link because the admin does not allow links to it. So thats out and I have spent too much time f****** with it. I can figure somthing out as I think I will just build this enclosure myself if I even get to buy this driver. Thanks to everyone jw

Thats right. All positives together and all negatives together. If you want 500 watts go for 22.36 volts. Be sure to listen after setting it up. If you start your volume at about half way and slowly turn up the volume you should hear consistent rise from the woofer without a hitch. If you don't you are in thermal compression or the amp is not capable for any number of reasons. In any case there is only so much that sub can do. If it isn't giving you the kind of output you seek, be ready to spend some change. Good luck.

This one truly is a system issue as far as what to go with and where to x-over at. Can't say there is a right answer. Certainly possible that with the equipment already installed, one could do better with its abilities.

Thanks Boss.

Funny that your buddy the moderator is disagreeing with you as well.

That doesn't change the fact that you are wrong. If you were right then why are so many manufacturer's and installation companies warning of the damage a speaker getting clipped power will receive. Im not alone in this as I guess you are unwilling to read the website I have posted. I have built amps before in classes. Not a big deal. Having the tools to test it and re-design is. I'm not poking so much at you, but I think you are not understanding the way a clip signal portrays a DC signal. I learned this stuff from a Engineer whom just happens to build radio stations on the side. He has 3 degrees from electrical studies. If he's wrong then so is 99% of the people that they graduate.

That explains why you would think it was right. Read the one I posted a link to. The fact that you do not understand what a DC wave would look like on an o-scope shows you have no knowledge of it. The DC signal is anything horizontal on the screen. That means clipping (where the peaks are cut) is DC. Read an O-scope manual.

Did you?

Read this ( http://sound.westhost.com/clipping.htm ) ,it goes into detail on both clipping and distortion and how they both send DC type signal to a driver.

I learned that in Industrial Electric Class so its not some noob statement. I have seen it on O-scopes and it does emulate DC. That is fact and cannot be disproved my man. Check an O-scope on that yourself and it will show it like a dc line. No its not a solid line but the coil will react to those waves like it is for the amount of the clipped signal. If you want to see the real bad stuff take an amp set the gain to max and through a line driver that will smash its peak voltage and it will have longer flat lines. Then to show how the woofers reacts. stick a big ole battery on it and hold the leads to it for awhile and you will see the cone go one direction and stay there. Same type of signal when it is clipped. If I had a scope I would do a youtube vid for ya'll. In short stay away from clipping. It sounds like poo and may (if you are clipping hard) damage the coil.