whitey

alright i will re explain the wiring to my understanding: configuration 1) i had each subwoofer's coils, wired together in parallel, red to red, black to black. each sub had a pos/neg lead on one voice coil, and i used another 2 wires to jump across to the other coil. each main pos/neg lead goes from the sub, to a terminal on the back of the box.from the amp at the terminal i have the neg wire hooked to one terminal, and the pos hooked to the other terminal with a jump wire going in between. configuration 2) i had each sub's coils wired with the pos lead to the poa of coil A, and the neg to coil B and a jumper between the remaining push terminals.each sub has it's own terminal in the box. outside the box, each terminal had it's own wires providing power; no jumper wires going between since my amp has 2 pos and 2 neg terminals. ( not a 2 channel ) configuration 3) voice coils in parallel, terminals outside in parallel. i thought configuration 1 was a 4 ohm load, configuration 2 was a 2 ohm load and configuration 3 was a 1 ohm load.

ok i didn't know that. i'm just getting into most of the technical parts of car audio. so i just checked and the manual says the "preout level" is 2500mv @ 10k ohms is that what i'm looking for? match that on the amp?

well my gain is actually labeled as input sensitivity. i had it at about 2 volts, now its set at around .75 for the sake of volume. when i said 4 ohm, i had the coils in parallel subs together in series. i reversed this putting the coils in series subs in parallel.

i just got a new box built for my subs ( 2 12 inch dual 2 ohm L5 kickers in a 6.5-7 cube box tuned to 35 htz). i picked it up from the guy and set my amp at 25 htz with the gain set at about half way from what i can see on the dial. first, i must say it sounded amazing! i was running a 3.3 cube box that was kinda jimmy rigged together by the guy i bought them from so this is exquisite great sound, good range and a ton of sound pressure. if anyone needs a box built in central to eastern washington/ central idaho let me know i'll get you in contact with triticum audio. ok, so the guy that built my box also installed the subs and wired in at a 4 ohm load. about a week after i got them home i got curious and pulled the subs out and switched everything to a 2 ohm load. it sounded awesome. great lows, tons of pressure and great sound quality. next time i had it going and my amp kept shutting off at mid to high volume and it sounded like i had a couple of crap tens in cardboard boxes. never had this issue. i'm running a kenwood amp rated at 500rms@ 4 ohm, 900rms@ 2ohm and they were even advertised to be 1 ohm stable. i have 1/0 power cable and 2/0 ground with solid copper terminals on both ends cause i filed down a set of terminals to actually bolt into my amp. i replaced my body ground with a piece of 1/0 instead of the 4 gauge i have for my big 3. changed the subs back to 4 ohms. i'm still not picking up the really low frequencies i was getting. tuned it in, and it sounded decent. tried running at 1 ohm and blew out 2 fuses simultaneously. back to 4 ohms. NO CLUE WHATS HAPPENING!!!!! is my amp taking a crap? could it be my off the shelf kenwood deck? could it just be my subs? do you have to acoustically reference each sub according to which voicecoil produces what? NO CLUE!!!!!

oh ok thats easy enough to start with. like i said i already did the chassis ground so at least i was on the right path i just didnt do the whole thing. i'll do that and see if it helps my light dimming problem with just one amp running before i ask more questions. but any other suggestions would be awesome

what is the big 3? my main amp power lines are huge for the sake of upgradability. my ground wire is bolted to the unibody where i ground all the paint off and i put a larger ground wire from the unibody to the battery. I dont ever plan on leaving the mismatched combo of amps, i just had the smaller amp and 2 tens sittin around awaiting installation into my wife's car. under normal condition with just my kenwood amp running i barely experience any voltage drop unless i'm running the drivers real hard, which makes my headlights dim slightly. its all hooked up in my 94 grand cherokee. i figured that maybe an even larger battery like a 1000 cca optima MIGHT cure my voltage issue in the current setup, but like i said i plan on getting another amp like the one i currently have and possibly upgrading to a good set of 15 inch drivers. i just dont want to fry my alternator if i can avoid it. after a quick websearch i think my issue is that my currentalternator is only capable of around 70 to 90 amps.

I was dinkin with my stereo today. i usually run my kenwood 900/1 to my 2 12 inch kicker L5s. they hit pretty dang good. i got curious and daisy linked my alpine 350/1 ( I know its probably a bad idea to link mis matched amps like that but i was bored ) and hooked up my 2 10 inch rockford fosgates. it was VERY loud. i had it all the way up and looked at my alt gauge and it had dropped from over 14 to nearly 9 volts. just for future reference since i plan on buying a matching kenwood amp to what i have and running both, should i use a capacitor or just get a second battery? my alternator is pretty new and i have a brand spankin new 800 cca battery. my amp is wired with #2 extra high strand welding lead which is the equivalent i believe to 2 awg or bigger. resistance is not an issue and is futile

i've searched a bit and still cant find a post with this formula

i am willing to sacrafice up to 4'x4'x4' or thereabouts.

heres a question; is there any kind of mathematical formula or equation i can follow that allows me to calculate port dimension according to desired tuning frequency and enclosure volume? i went through the pinned post for new members that outlines alot of these topics but nothing i found directly related to my issue

a quick search showed the jeep having 80 cubic feet of cabin space. and i also agree on kickers performing well in a mainstream box. my brother in law has a good set of kicker cvx or cwr or something in a prefab kicker box with a 500.1 kicker amp wired at 2 ohms and he KILLS me on low frequency performance. his setup is in a 98 legacy wagon. i know i have much higher spl by far but like i said, i want to get better tone. on the flipside a was able to flex my windshield enough to make my mirror fall off, which is cool in my book. sorry i'm a long winded sob

yes, I know kicker isn't a real high end brand but i got an excellent deal on 2 12 inch L5s and a kenwood kac 9152D 900 rms mono amp. the guy i bought them from built a very piss poor box out of subflooring material and basically gestimated a slotted port dimension. the box performs about as well as a dual brand bandpass box. he was using a head unit with a very good EQ and in his integra the drivers performed well all things considered. in my jeep however, they only operate (I'm guessing here) in the 50 to 65 hz range well and only give me a bit of a hum in the low range. now, I know you can still get a good low end response out of a set of 12s. I've witnessed this. I've built a few enclosures before for other people using factory specs on the drivers provided, but in this case i want to really put some time and effort into it and further impress my kicker crazy brother in laws until I can afford something really extravagent ( maybe a set of FI's or something? ). does any one on here have experience with these kickers or else get me going in the right direction? I'm an amatuer in my knowledge and understanding of box building. I can provide almost any bit of info on the drivers upon request. NO, I'M NOT going to throw them away and go spend 1000 dollars i don't have on some crazy awesome drivers. thats what i've been told on other sites so far

ok cool thanx

alright. but back to my other question, can someone give me a good basic box design? just need a box that i could possibly put in an suv.

ye-no. these are minz no way. i'll find a way to use them. lol, I don't see why you want to keep them so much. Selling them will definitely help you finance a setup with SSDs. You might even have extra cash to buy some goodies, like a new HU. Hes offering you five times more then what you paid for, you're essentially making $320 for nothing. :] But yes, I would look into the SSDs. Sounds like you want a street beater. have you ever had a candy bar, or an ice cream or something that no matter what you wouldnt give anyone a bite of? thats whats going on with these 18s. but if im selling them my buddys got dibs already so sorry. 99% of me says they're staying