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sandsnip3r

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About sandsnip3r

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  1. sandsnip3r

    First front stage build in new car

    Ok, thanks, you're the man
  2. sandsnip3r

    First front stage build in new car

    Ok, thanks for the help, I'll do a lot more research and make sure to go for a high quality install. Also, I have a question about subwoofer wiring. Here is the manual for my amplifier: http://cadencesound.com/content/ZRS-C1.pdf There is a left and right set of terminals, how should i wire the pair of subwoofers to match that? Should I wire a pair of 2ohm DVC's down to 1ohm and then run that into one of the pairs (either left or right)? Or should I wire each sub to a 2ohm load with one into the left and one into the right so that the final load is 1ohm? Does it matter?
  3. sandsnip3r

    First front stage build in new car

    Thanks guys, I appreciate the help. With the crossover, can I change the frequencies? wannabang, I ran this amp in my old car which had a 90A alternator and only a big 3 upgrade and the worst I ever saw was dimming headlights Do you guys have any other suggestions for a nice pair of components and amp?
  4. Car: 2013 VW Golf 4doorHeadunit: KENWOOD DDX471HD 2DIN 6.1" TOUCHSCREENPlanned sub stage: 2x10" Fi SSD's sealed, ~0.4cubes each, powered by a Cadence ZRS C1 mono (2250rms @ 1ohm)I did my previous car's stereo install which was a single DIN head unit(Alpine IDA-X100), same amplifier(reusing it), and a 15" Fi BTL in a ported box. But with that install, I still only had the stock front speakers. Towards the end, I think even both tweeters died. My previous build was geared towards maximum volume with a high schooler's budget, now that I'm older and my tastes have changed, I plan to build more towards quality but not crazy like I've seen some people take it. I figure that I should upgrade the front speakers&tweeters, but I'm not sure what I want to upgrade them to. Someone had recommended to me PRECISION POWER PPI PC2.65C 6-1/2" 2-WAY COMPONENT with a Precision Power BA1000.4 1000 Watts 4-Channel Class AB Full Range Amplifier to power them. I'm open to many other suggestions. I dont want to modify the door panels at all or really anything in the car like that. I've never done an install that involved that involved anything besides the subwoofer/amp. What is involved in an install like that? Where are the speaker wires currently run, from the factory head unit to the factory speakers? If I power aftermarket speakers with an aftermarket amplifier, where do I put the amp? What is the crossover? Should I do something for the rear speakers also? How necessary is deadening the doors?Thanks a lot for the help! Edit: It looks the stock alternator with this car is ~140A. I'm not sure what the car draws while idling.
  5. sandsnip3r

    From 15" fully loaded BTL to 2x10" SSD?

    Not much! I saw your username on CAF the other day and thought "damn its been a long time since ive seen that name" Only get high QTS if you are NEVER going to run them in a ported enclosure. I wont ever run them ported. I'll be sure to make a note of it so i remember for the future
  6. sandsnip3r

    From 15" fully loaded BTL to 2x10" SSD?

    Oh duh, thanks, I dont know how i missed that. Ok, sounds good. Are any of the others necessary for my what I need?
  7. Previously I owned a 15" BTL running on a Cadence ZRS C1. The sub was in a ported box tuned around 34hz. I bought a new car and I'm selling my old car, I really enjoyed it and miss it already. In my new car, I'd like to keep the build small and oriented towards quality. I'd like to run 2 10" Fi SSD's on the same amp in a sealed box. I plan on building a box right around 0.4 cubic feet for each sub. Problem is, to run the subs on that mono at 1 ohm, I think need them in DVC 4ohm, will Fi build them like that? Also which options should I get on the subs and why? Thanks guys!
  8. sandsnip3r

    1000# club

    i am afraid that this summer i am just going to sit around. Lose motivation and not go to the gym. I ought to get a job working at a hardware store's loading dock or something....
  9. sandsnip3r

    1000# club

    I made it into the 1000 pound club earlier this year. The 1000 pound club is when your bench, squat, and deadlift add up to at least 1000 lbs. I am 17 years old (18 tomorrow) 5'10" 240lbs. 200lbs bench, 355lbs squat, 495lbs deadlift. I have made much improvement this year. I work out only 2-3 days a week at school in weights class. My agility, endurance, and strength have improved far more than i could say that i expected.
  10. sandsnip3r

    2 saz-4500

    Oops, sorry... hah
  11. sandsnip3r

    2 saz-4500

    Okay, cool, sounds like it'll be great! Thanks for the help
  12. sandsnip3r

    2 saz-4500

    it's a truck so maybe a 250-300amp alt. ok
  13. sandsnip3r

    2 saz-4500

    good electrical system... H.O. alt and ~3 deep cycles(including the one under the hood)? Would that work?
  14. sandsnip3r

    2 saz-4500

    Haha, alright, thanks guys, so 1 will be sufficient?
  15. sandsnip3r

    2 saz-4500

    jay-cee, they will be "fully loaded" BLs in a ported box, 15-17 cubes. 2 2500's would seem like it would be giving the subs sufficient power to be loud but still have room for more, and I do like the idea of 2 3500's but the 4500's aren't too much of a price difference to make that extra step and just run them at a lower gain setting, perhaps running them cooler, and completely avoid any possibilities of clipping. Simply the reason I ask such an obvious question is that I have heard/seen that Fi's subs(at least the BTL[fully loaded]) are capable of comfortably taking more than than they are rated for. Even 200% of rated RMS... Thankyou for the help guys, I am just trying to learn all i can!
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