DC Power Kyle

The reason why you're getting this message is because one of the following: alternator regulator doesn't have a "P" terminal "P" Terminal is not connected to alternator regulator.

You could always ask me... as you know, I know this car better than anyone else. Which is why i told you in the first place XP or 180HP if you got from us..

Hey Kyle, not saying this is the case, bc obviously its not, but if he had a bigger battery bank, would this still be an issue?? because of the power curve? or would a big a$$ battery bank help that? The more batteries you have the more load that will be to sustain the higher voltage. It will be a trade off, you get more batteries, you will have better voltage at idle, but you'll be requiring more power to recharge them. More batteries to bring up to 14.5-15v takes more power.. Hey Kyle, not saying this is the case, bc obviously its not, but if he had a bigger battery bank, would this still be an issue?? because of the power curve? or would a big a$$ battery bank help that? The OP's vehicle idles below the rpm level needed to trigger the alternator to turn on. At idle, the alternator is off, the entire electrical system relies on battery voltage(float level). From the chart Kyle posted, their 320HP would produce around 93amps at idle (whether this be near the stock alts rating or below, I don't know), but 93a for stock electrical + a big stereo = no bueno. So as you can see in either case, your mainly going to be relying on your batteries when the vehicle is parked or idling. If the OP had thirty large agm batteries in the back of his car, he would have plenty of battery reserve, and the alternator's nearly non-existent contribution at idle wouldn't really matter in the scheme of things. (assuming your driving around like normal) But having thirty agm batteries isn't going to change the alternator's turn on speed or power curve. The alternator is "essentially" off. The vehicle takes about 30 or so amps to run without the AC or defroster. Put those two on you're at about 70-75 amps. If you guys want, I can shoot a video clamping it. By the way, here is alldata spec for this car for idling:

Knowing the exact unit they're using and knowing this car like the back of my hand you have these options.... and they're not gonna be what you want to hear. That alternator is NOT designed for idle output in a camry. They idle too low. If I was at work, I would show you what alldata says for what our idle speed is in our cars. It's just not going to happen with that unit. You're wasting your time. Remember when I said our car idles at 2000 Alternator RPM? Here is a power curve of our 320HP that is the same alternator you got for your vehicle. Notice what it does at 2000? it does 39 amps.. what happens when you increase it 800 rpms? 8000*3 = you get over 100 amps... this car is not capable of hitting the sweet spot you need it to hit. So your options are: Deal with it. Have them swap you out for a denso 180 amp unit. That unit WILL charge at idle and you WILL be happy with it. I've ran the 320 in my car, i hated it. I ran the 180HP in my car and I loved it. I now run the XP and well, i love it like a fat kid loves cake. You want idle from mechman? get the 180 amp denso. Sorry to be blunt, but I want you to realize that you're wasting your time. you can't make more idle performance out of an alternator by replacing wires. Our car is a 3 alternator rpm to 1 engine rpm. want to know what the alternator does? look at that power curve and do (engine rpm) * 3 = alternator RPM.

I don't know of any.. Toyota ECUs are really hard to crack and I wouldn't personally reprogram my ECU to raise the RPM... too many things can go wrong IMO.

double post due to server lag.

Hmmm. Care to share more on that location??? Having a '02 Camry with the 2AZ-FE engine this does not exist. The 2AZ-FE Camry is a drive by wire. The 1MZ-FE was a drive by cable but not on the 2AZ-FE. You're unfortunately stuck with the low RPM unless you purposefully modify the IAC which can and most likely throw the PCM off for when it adjusts. The car idles anywhere from 550~ to 650~ with a 2" pulley on the alternator will idle at around 2,000 alternator RPM with your A/C on at 650 Engine RPM and 1,650 alternator RPM at 550 Engine RPM. Sorry for the bad news. Thanks for that info Kyle TBH it isn't so badd... Apparently servicing/cleaning the throttle body can somewhat help improve idle rpms once all that crud is removed... It can but remember, this is all computer controlled so the IAC will adjust more and more as it gets dirtier it may help at first, but it will most likely adjust itself back down to the old RPM you were seeing.

Also, to give you an idea where RPM on the tach is in correlation to actual RPM. Here is my car: Pictures were taken after I had my battery disconnected for like an hour, so the PCM was still learning.

Hmmm. Care to share more on that location??? Having a '02 Camry with the 2AZ-FE engine this does not exist. The 2AZ-FE Camry is a drive by wire. The 1MZ-FE was a drive by cable but not on the 2AZ-FE. You're unfortunately stuck with the low RPM unless you purposefully modify the IAC which can and most likely throw the PCM off for when it adjusts. The car idles anywhere from 550~ to 650~ with a 2" pulley on the alternator will idle at around 2,000 alternator RPM with your A/C on at 650 Engine RPM and 1,650 alternator RPM at 550 Engine RPM. Sorry for the bad news.

We currently don't have the XP series alternators for the Trailblazer. We hope to have them completed within the next couple of months though. No dual kit planned at this time. Yes sir, sending you two for the long wait. Will do sir and thanks for your business!

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