

filtor1
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Everything posted by filtor1
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Well done! The Peroni containers made me thirsty.
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You don't seem to try very hard. email them if you have further questions.
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It is quad. The triple is a misprint. I sent them an email so they can address it.
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I am going to try and assume you are not trying to be a douchebag. All the posts above are attempts to best answer your questions. If you want to act like that, there is always ca.com. I am referring specifically to your comment I made bold above in the event you are curious. An internal lead is one that is sewn into the spider as opposed to being free floating between the terminal and contact point on the coil. Chris
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As for the front stage, that is the most difficult question to answer. "What sounds good". I recommend you try and duplicate something you heard and liked. Someone may love the ID speakers you posted and you may not like them at all. I suggest you listen to as many set ups as you can to determine what you like before buying. Subs are easy to recommend. They usually don't do much below ~20Hz and above ~100. Components are actually the hard part because everyone has different expectations and hearing limitations. When I clicked on the HU you linked, I got this message. "Sorry, the Alpine CDA-105 is no longer available for purchase" Chris
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From the Q12 information page: Sealed box: .8-1.5 High QTScuft Ported box: 1.8-2.5 cuft @ 28-33Hz The high QTS option is recommended for sealed enclosures. I will almost always recommend a properly designed and built ported enclosure if the space permits.Either enclosure can have excellent SQ. The amp you chose will work fine for either enclosure choice. Removing the speakers from the rear deck can do a couple things for you. It can allow more bass from the trunk to get into the car. It will eliminate the potential for over excursion and possible damage of the rear deck speakers. If you want to retain the speakers in the rear deck, you can buy/build a sealed back for them. Another option is firing the port and driver through the ski pass area and sealing the trunk from the cabin. This will allow you to keep the rear deck speakers with a decreased likelihood of damage. "If I'm not choosing High QTS is it automatically Low QTS? From reading the options descriptions it says that the I heat ring would not be an option with low QTS picked. And I don't see where internal leads description is." If you do not choose a sealed alignment, do not add the high QTS. The listed (Qts: .37) is the QTS measurement without the high QTS option. You are correct about the "heat ring", (inductance control). It is not an option without first choosing the high QTS option. If you want sewn in leads make sure you communicate that when you order. It is my understanding that this can be done. Understand the limitations between internal (sewn) and external (non-sewn) leads. They each have their own inherent issues. Back to your first question though, Do you plan on building your own enclosure? ie. do you have the tools necessary to do so? there are recommended designs available here:http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/44520-q-series-cut-sheets/ There are several designers here that can design you an enclosure once you choose the direction you want to go. You can order just plans and in some cases they will build it for you. Chris
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Would you mind posting pics in a new thread with your impressions?
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Ouch, the problem is likely way too much power, not the driver.
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Thank you Kenneth. Definitely follow up with me when you get it. Chris
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I copied the pictures I posted on ca but have had nothing but problems with their site. I am also no longer able to use the PM feature there. My SN in every forum is filtor1 with exception to this one. If you need me to take new pictures with Chris on them I will do so. 12" AA Havoc D1 3 slug motor Very low hours. Was in my car for roughly 1 month before I sold the car. Been in my closet since. 10/10 Appearance 10/10 Function Price: $225 shipped to the lower 48. PayPal or local pick up. I will subtract the $25 for shipping if this is picked up. Not interested in trades. If shipped, item will be shipped in the original box from AA. Thank you for looking, Chris
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Done. PM'd with shipping info.
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kSwift, thank you for picking this up. I received your payment via PayPal earlier and appreciate the sale. Here is a quick picture before I tape the box up. I will be going out as soon as my son wakes up and we get some food and sending it via Fed Ex. I will PM you the tracking information before my head hits the pillow tonight. Chris
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What is your question argenis? We can try and help.
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It is still here Fast. PM returned argenis
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Yes, I was very active there until I sold my Maxima.
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Yup, you did sell those to me. And yes, I miss the van. And yes, your little brown babies. Thank you for posting Shawn. Saves me the time to go back and take more pictures.
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Welcome! Looking forward to your build.
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not like you havent seen some BTLs in action before
filtor1 replied to dirtysouth32's topic in General Fi
Bad ass!! -
I would go with the SP4 personally.
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Hell yeah Tony! Thanks for sharing!
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Def in for pics!
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JL indicates this driver can be used with either alignment. "The 12W6v2 is best used with amplifier power in the 200W - 600W range and is optimized to operate in a 1.25 cu. ft. (35.4 l) sealed enclosure, or a 1.5 cu. ft. (42.5 l) ported enclosure. Detailed enclosure recommendations can be found in the "Specifications" tab." http://www.jlaudio.com/12w6v2-d4-car-audio-w6v2-subwoofer-drivers-92121 Click on the specifications tab and pick the alignment you want to use. They offer dimension as well as internal cf requirements for each allowing you to deviate from the external dimensions as needed for your application. Building the box yourself can end up yielding a substantial savings if you have the drive to do it. Even without tools, as mentioned above by stealth, you can have home depot rip the board/MDF for you requiring only a drill, glue, and screws. If you want to have it built for you, there are several builders here that will plan the build from your provided measurements.
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These if you have the budget: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=290-400 These if you don't: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-020 I second the bullet style super tweeters in this case as well. I picked pro audio drivers as they can take a little more abuse without failure, ability to handle a lot of power, and their sensitivity. Keep in mind you will need some type of crossover ie. MiniDSP or the like to manage your points and slopes. If properly implemented the banks of drivers can be given an extra layer of protection from being over driven with driver corresponding crossover settings.
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Yeah man! I used my phone to video all the time. Plug the phone into your computer then upload to whatever site you use and link it.
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Great choice! The SSD is a great driver and will fit the bill for your install very well. I can also mirror the others in Fi making great drivers. I have owned many from Fi and AA and they have never let me down.