Also if you can, try to get 9 or 13 ply birch. It's stronger than 5, and if there are any voids they would be much less significant.

There a big difference from baltic birch ply and shop birch (11 or 13) for this kind of application.

search for a local lumber yard, dont buy from menards, HD, or lowes - their prices are insane compared to a lumber yard.

I seen one lumber yard have prefinished birch on both sides.

Just the benefit from not having all that damn MDF dust is worth using birch alone, lol.

I know and I seen that the lumber yard had 1" mdf.

Yes, the baffle will be triple stack. So the first two will be mdf with the third one will be birch. Top, bottom, back and sides being belined. Now I was talking about make a replacement midgate trim piece from birch or fiberglass. Front baffle and midgate being lacquered. But you say that lacquer will be a better choice for the birch but what about for the mdf. Sorry, typing from phone.

I guess you could seal the Mdf with lacquer. It may take a bit mor lawyer though.

I'm just not really sure why you're so hung up on using Mdf? It would cost you maybe 80$ more to do birch ove mdf, and you already have a good bit invested. I probably see more people use birch than Mdf, and it sounds great. And in your application just seems like a much better choice since it's more resilient to moisture, as well as stiffer than Mdf.

I'd also be willing to bet that stain and lacquer is gonna be a good bit cheaper than herculiner.

I see where the mix up is now. You talking about birch ply while I was talking about baltic birch which is $52.00 for 5'x5'. Will have to check HD and Lowes for birch ply. Think they have 5 ply and might just skip the mdf like you stated. Will have redo cut sheets and design if I apply birch over mdf. Thanks for the input.

Yes, the baffle will be triple stack. So the first two will be mdf with the third one will be birch. Top, bottom, back and sides being belined. Now I was talking about make a replacement midgate trim piece from birch or fiberglass. Front baffle and midgate being lacquered. But you say that lacquer will be a better choice for the birch but what about for the mdf. Sorry, typing from phone.

Sexterra, I was thinking about the final baffle to be birch while the rest will mdf(hurcliner) with a birch trim plate (lacquer).

Sexterra, I rolled mines. Did you rolled it or sprayed it. But it do leave a texture. Might have to see if lacquer will do well far as look and water resistant.

Sexterra and Leedoggs you both have valid points. Sexterra I was leaning more towards SQ with low tuning and use wood dowels like you said. Also, do you think that pocket hole jig will be better than staples? Leedogg, I did used Herculiner before on mdf. Came out good with two coats. I really didn't know if that Baltic Birch would swell, but was going just paint (oil based) it if I went that route.

Sorry man but 2 2500 watt rms 18s ported is not SQ just bc Its tuned low. SQ= aiming for completely flat frequency response through the entire system. Your objective is clean ground pounding, Im just stating this before the real SQ nazis come out on here haha

The baltic birch will handle moisture best out of the 3, and would look amazing with a nice stain, and a good layer of laquer would seal it up really nice. You could also double up the entire thing and do mdf insides, birch outer layer and stain and laquer if youre really set on mdf. But with the volume youll be reaching and equipment youre running, I highly doubt youd notice any "SQ" difference.

Lol, thought I would give it a try. But you right, they would have ripped me a new one.

Sexterra and Leedoggs you both have valid points. Sexterra I was leaning more towards SQ with low tuning and use wood dowels like you said. Also, do you think that pocket hole jig will be better than staples? Leedogg, I did used Herculiner before on mdf. Came out good with two coats. I really didn't know if that Baltic Birch would swell, but was going just paint (oil based) it if I went that route.

I have the baffle triple stack and might look at going mdf after comparing the pros and cons and just use bedliner to coat the box. Also going do a trim plate to replace the midgate.

With the steel tubes, are you talking about 1/2" pipe with floor flanges? I am also going used T - nuts for the subs and debating about using staples or pocket hole screws to hold the box together while glue is curing.

gotcha, triple baffle will stiffen it up alot.

What are your pros and cons of MDF to Birch? MDF is cheaper but heavy as crap. Birch is stronger, lighter but more $. Id personally go birch.

yeah, like this...

Easiest way would probably be some wooden dowels though.

Pocket hole screws would be better than staples,but alot more time consuming.

If you go staples, make sure you get them all the way in and in good.

Mdf is heavy but after doing some reading to find out that Baltic Birch 13 ply is about 10 lbs lighter and less dense than mdf. HD or Lowes birch ply will have voids in it. So which is the worst of the two evils. Baltic Birch ~$52.00 for 5'x5', mdf ~35.00 for 4'x8', or birch or maple ply ~48 for 4'x8'. Just thinking that the main factor will be bracing. With it being in the bed of an a Avalanche makes it hard because they are water resistant and not water proof (in the bed).

i have also been looking at dual subs in my system and have read many places that separate chambers are preferred. I believe the reasons for this are 2 fold: one is that if one sub fails then you are not immediately over loading the remaining sub due to lack of back pressure and second is that a split box allowed for a full front to back brace down the center of the box. i have never seen a prefab box with shared chambers (outside of ebay) and assume this is the reason. I do not believe there would be any output difference between shared or separate - all else being equal.

The one sub failure would be the only reason to not do a shared chamber. I wouldn't base and box I was building on any prefab box ever, theres a reason they all suck.

It looks like you are on the right path, threaded rod is great for bracing. You can also use steel tubing with a base plate and a cross connector for bracing if you dont want the ends of the rod and bolts sticking out of the box.

Id also recommend a double baffle, cant tell if you had one on that sketch.

Also make sure to seal it off so that all the pressure is focused into the cab.

I have the baffle triple stack and might look at going mdf after comparing the pros and cons and just use bedliner to coat the box. Also going do a trim plate to replace the midgate.

With the steel tubes, are you talking about 1/2" pipe with floor flanges? I am also going used T - nuts for the subs and debating about using staples or pocket hole screws to hold the box together while glue is curing.

 

I think I am going without a divider down the middle since I am going be using Baltic Birch and might use a few threaded rods. 

 

The side port had me also thinking about the loaded wall for one sub while the other have a clear path to vent.

 

Julian stated earlier in the post,"It depends on how you roll, most cases drivers side port is loudest with drivers window closed and passengers open, center port is typically both windows down. I normally roll around with my side up and the passenger window open".

i have also been looking at dual subs in my system and have read many places that separate chambers are preferred. I believe the reasons for this are 2 fold: one is that if one sub fails then you are not immediately over loading the remaining sub due to lack of back pressure and second is that a split box allowed for a full front to back brace down the center of the box. i have never seen a prefab box with shared chambers (outside of ebay) and assume this is the reason. I do not believe there would be any output difference between shared or separate - all else being equal.

So do you think I should add a center wall down the middle or just a partial wall in the shape of the triangle at the rear

I change my mind and went a center port design, still have to add corner bracing but let me know what think so far. Tuned ~ 30 don't know if I should go higher.

Coming up with plans on Torres'and Bassbox Pro right now.

It depends on how you roll, most cases drivers side port is loudest with drivers window closed and passengers open, center port is typically both windows down. I normally roll around with my side up and the passenger window open.

Ok, sound like driver side will fit me best.

Ok, thanks because my friend said that center port would have better results because of the load would be balance and less noise cancelation.

It is in Avalanche truck so sub or port up would be a bad idea I think.

I would do shared chamber with the subs an equal distance from the port if possible. I normally do drivers side port, or center port. Is it going to be a wall or a box?

Going be a box, inside the bed of an avalanche at the midgate.

Shared chambers

Shared chamber on driverside ~?hz. Was just wondering about the sub on the port wall and getting cancelation vs center port.

Anybody. Recommendations on split or shared chamber.

Looking ~15^3 after displacement with 18.5 x 9 slot port on driverside tuned ~34hz since it will be at B pillar. Had talks about tuning it higher since it will b pillar (midgate) and will go lower anyway in Hz's. Also to do center ports with separate chambers instead. Will be running a Memphis Mojo 4kw and have upgraded my electrical. Looking more at a daily setup and a shared chamber with slot or separate chambers.

Looking ~15^3 after displacement with 18.5 x 9 slot port on driverside tuned ~34hz since it will be at B pillar. Had talks about tuning it higher since it will b pillar and will go lower anyway In Hz's. Also to do center ports with separate chambers.

Are these T/S specs. listed individual,series or parallel. 

 

Old Amp Rack under the rear seats