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hispls

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Posts posted by hispls

  1. Posted

    Hey, been trying to email you, dunno if you got me on spam filter or something else wierd going on ([email protected]) You should have go that box from me last week with the shocker coil, spider, and some maple syrup.

    Please get back to me ASAP with a price of at least the other recone parts we discussed and a 15" basket with appropriate shipping so I can get these things built up for this weekend 3X NESPL show!

  2. My object is to go loud, but not sacrifice ALL sq. So technically four 12's at 18 mm xmax will push more air than one 18 with 31 mm. But I hear that there is no sq with the type r's. Anyone like type r's?

    Lots of people like the type R's. IMO there's better stuff around here for the money, but for something you can get at a big box store they're a good value.

    I've owned some X-con 18's (sold them before I got to play with them). They are pretty formidable and looked/felt well built. I wouldn't hesitate to run 2000W to them...then again you need to pay attention to bottoming out and funny burning smells.

    A single good 18 in a well built box will do all you want. Sub up is fine in SUV or wagon.

    Less better drivers is generally better than more poor drivers IMO.

  3. I get the protect at turn-on occasionally. I think trying a different HU may fix this as not everyone experiences this.

    My leviathan is dead quiet. My thought is if the problem is happening with EVERY amp there's something else going on somewhere.

    How often? I get it about once every 8-10 turn-ons.

    Every 40-50 turn ons for me now, which is odd since with same HU it was happening more like 1 in 10 in my last car?

  4. @ HISPLS - we also test it on other car. and still the same. we tested on other amp no problem at all.

    Hopefully Staphen can help you troubleshoot and find the problem. Mine was a very early production too from the DIYMA group buy so I'd think if anything bugs would be ironed out later.

    I must say I had more noise in general in my last car but I doubt it was any of the gear since the same gear is really dead quiet in my new install and after a couple months of playing I've only had the turn-on to protect problem about 3 times. It's a shame since the idea of the extra "smart" protection is sound but in application it seems to be not too compatible with many cars/HUs.

  5. The chrome colored opti line:

    1000.1D

    500.2

    200.2

    100.2

    I think there's a few more and a 4 channel. The newer optis have a more flat topped heatsink and the Zed ones say "designed and manufactured in the USA" the new ones say "designed in the USA"

    All the older ones have great pre-amp features and a nice clean Zed board. I have some pics of my old 500.2's here:

    Online Car Audio Competition OCAC - Top Installs from around the World, Best Installers and Installation Shops

  6. You do realize that most modern Class-D amplifiers are 85-90% efficient right? Please don't tell me they have too much THD, that's a worthless measurement.

    If you believe that'll happen real world I've got a bridge for sale....

    That being said I noticed a difference running old school A/B amps at 4 ohms and running new class D at 1 ohm, but I suspect more of that is the impedence than the class of the amp.

    Personally I'll do class D because the technology has come a long way and although the efficiency difference isn't as extreme as some would have us believe, it's still substantial and worth the tradeoff.

    I was also thinking at the start that this didn't look like a Zed board....still an old school beast.

  7. I get the protect at turn-on occasionally. I think trying a different HU may fix this as not everyone experiences this.

    My leviathan is dead quiet. My thought is if the problem is happening with EVERY amp there's something else going on somewhere.

  8. The difference for your application would likely be splitting hairs. Either are very capable and it's not like your pushing the power limits of either with 2KW.

    It's like people who blow thousands on golf clubs thinking it'll help their game when a few months of lessons would likely actually make a difference.

    People who do change their woofers a lot don't ask, they just buy and test. If you buy right you should lose much on flippping it afterwards and not end up paying too much to audition either.

  9. ·

    Edited by hispls

    to ku40, the top of the desk is the limit for my height of the box, so if i made it down firing, i would need to subtract some for the space needed under the driver, making the box smaller.

    to m5, would pillows or stuffing help since the bracing will take up a couple cubes?

    to oldschool, I know it is a little overkill but i already have the woofer from my car, and thought that i could get a 12.8 cube box under my desk. I might consider a sealed box, but if i can build a ported box it would be that much better.

    thanks for all of the input guys.

    LMFAO 12.8 cuft box is like a coffin.

    I'd try a sono-tube box for home project. MUCH lighter, no flex if you have thick top and bottomm, and you can finish it to look like a large pillar in the corner of your room.

    the only up-side is that it doesn't take a crazy deep port to tune 12ft down low.

  10. i am interested in a 3 way component system. reason being, one 2 way component system wouldnt be enough for me. i think a 3 way system would be more broader, with a woofer, a vocal mid range driver and a tweeter. i was looking at focals. model 165 A3 from there "Access" line. im not that particular to where i need to hear them before i buy. im sure i would be satisfied. im use to listening to factorys so any component sysem would probably do me good. anybody have suggestions or experience with a 3 way system? and also is the rated rms power totaled between all speakers on each crossover?

    I'm still running my old Boston Pro series 3 ways (from the 90's). There's a set or two on eBay at a decent price. I'm really happy with them and they sound really good off low power. Honestly if they died tomorrow I'd probably look to replace them with the same thing. They hold 250W a side easily if crossed over @60hz.....my only beef is the huge ass crossover...which would be great for display if that would work in your install but they're a bitch to try to hide.

    That being said, if you're careful with your install 2 way speaker systems are very capable, and RMS power handling is no where near the whole story. More important is what will sound good/loud enough for you with the space/power/budget you have to invest. Many lower power handling speakers will get very loud off of little input...it's called efficiency.

  11. Smaller than the Deuce (replacing that AND gladius)

    DSC04340.JPG

    Welcome to your new home.....here...meet your friends

    DSC04347.JPG

    Powered up it looks sweet. Haven't looked in the dark yet but I suspect these LEDs are as bright as they say.

    DSC04348.JPG

    In case anyone is wondering what the sundowns are for.... TC 4000 LMS 12's (Custom re-cone by PSi) These things beat out at 15-30hz....need to re-build the box next year.

    DSC04349.JPG

    Trunk is a little dusty. The guy at the body shop got a bit of dust in there while he worked and I haven't had a day to pull apart and vaccuum.

  12. I love smoking tobacco but got sick of paying the taxes so I stopped early this year as a tax protest. I just think of 9$ a pack and 8.5$ of it goes straight to the state/feds. That's a really big tax that I can just opt out of.

    Switched to Swedish snus (General Exstra Sterk FTW). Delicious tobacco and tax free from Sweden.....saves me a ton of money, can have one in at all times and still costs me < 2$ a day. Same spirit as the colonists that started drinking coffee to avoid the tea tax.

    To be honest if they'd drop the cigarette taxes I'd buy a pack right now. Sometimes smoke a hookah (drug free), but that's rather a production so only if I have company.

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