Sent deposit for Orangelss (from DIYMA)

150$

for:

1x Cronos

and

1X leviathan

Use 2 15" PR's MINIMUM. Volume is the same as a ported box just you don't need to worry about losing the 2-3 cubes in port volume.

I saw a single Fi 10 do 146-147 this summer. Doubt it was a terribly linear/musical sounding box.

edit.....probably had a lot of G's

I'd try to rear-fire both. If you are brave cut away as much of that steel as you can, you need a bigger hole to get the deebeez through to the cabin area!

As the first reply said, there's no way to tell without testing and I've found often the frequency response changes along with overal output depending on placement of box/driver/ports...so you may have different variations giving you more or less output at different frequencies and possibly even the one with somewhat less output will sound more musical.

I keep a small test box to get an idea of sub aiming/placement that I can move around and test before I build something that is total shit, but even then you can't be sure.

No I'm not saying I have the amp I mean that I am purchasing the amp before I get my new car. Sorry if I started any confusion LoL. I'll have the amp in like a month or more and I won't be getting my car 2011 Mustang GT until next fall hehe.

I think the folks who pre-ordered through Stephen may have theirs very soon (if not allready). I was actually just trying to get more pics!

I got this amp before I got my car hehe. Its going to look great mounted on my wall for a few months though until I install it :-D.

Pics or it didn't happen

i gotta guy wanting me to a build for him in his 73' caprice convertible and i need some suggestions! he wants to go big but he doesn't like ported boxes for some odd reason. now he's seen my other builds and he expects it to be as loud as those. i might be able to convince him to go ported but it really has to slam. here's the catch, it all has to be in the trunk! but the good news is he has an open wallet. im thinkin 8-12" sa's and about 12000 watts rms. any suggestions out there?

I dont know how it will sound with a convertible but I would think you will lose a lot of sound. Why would he want the system to slam hella hard but not want ported enclosures? That sounds like a lot of shit to go in a trunk also. I think you can pound with a lot less. 2k-5k watts and a couple of 18's would slump pretty good in the right circumstances. But if you love to build and he loves to spend...get out the grinder and start stuffin.

There ya go.

You will loose ALOT of sound and possibly tear the top itself. You need to talk to him and find out his goals, and why he doesn't like ported enclosures. I see NO logical reason why he would want 8 12"s and WANT to be sealed. Beyond the fact that he could say " I got 8 12"s in my truck and it's rattles like King Kong and Godzilla back there thumpin." Which would sound like absolute trash.

I have a stern passion for hating trunk rattle.

i agree i hate trunk rattle, but this is what he wants. he wants the trunk to rattle. i think i am just gonna have to convince him to go ported and do 8- 12" in 12cu.ft. @ about 34 hz giving them right around 16000 watts. hey he wants to spend the money and im not gonna tell him no. thanks guys

I worked in the industry in Florida many years ago and many people seemed to feel that trunk rattle was the primary objective!!!

They'd install 6 subs (keeping stock mids and highs....some of the real coniseurs would buy tweeters as well) They'd come to pick it up, turn it up all the way stand outside and watch the trunk rattle and be very happy if the trunk had a nice buzzing qualtiy. OF course these guys would get 100 yards down the street pull over, crank the gains on their amps all the way (because of course that's a volume knob) then come back later that day needing new amps.

Keep in mind moving enough air to do a hair-trick would definitely destroy a soft top. I'd do a dozen Bass-Shakers attatched to his seats to give the feeling of low freq and just a couple subs.

Damn. I was sooooo close to doing this myself. JB-weld FTW~!!!!

I will be getting a TC LMS 3ohm coil driver this week to play with. Will report back when I do some testing.

Personally I'm running the TC2K's and wishing like hell I'd ponyed up the extra money for some LMS drivers.

Keep in mind adequate port area/volume for a pair of 18's tuned low will eat up a LOT of your 10-12ft.

More brix were shat after seeing the pictures!

For subwoofers in general, they will reach mechanical limits first <40hz and thermal limits first >40hz. Of course that's a generalization and it all depends on your application and install. Just use your head and you won't have to find out.

I promise you won't notice the difference between 5,000W and 4,500W (possibly not even on a meter). I say go with whichever will give you the best customer support and will be easiest to buy and get support for in your country. Try contacting Stetsom and ask some questions and see how they treat you.

Call Steve 443-623-4952 Tell him Thor sent ya.

If you can really hear the difference between 4500 and 5000W I applaud you since in theory the difference should be appx half a DB and in reality depending on many other factors it could be less than that or nil (assuming some degree of compression at this power level).

Then again some people can hear the difference in a 7,000$ pair of speaker cables. I may just not have that sort of refined ear.

i had a buddie that had a cvr kicker 05 06 and it was put at 32hertz the boxfoot was around 5 cf and it hit around 146 and it would goo sooo low it would make your nutz go into your stomch

pretty bad ass woffer if you ask me though

he had 1 cvr in that and it hit 146?

at 33hz

<15 is just silly. Who really tunes down to 10hz? Even home theater guys plan to be 3db down @ 16.

Lowest freq in actual music is 8hz fundamental (64 foot pipe in a couple pipe organs) 4hz harmonic . That'll be at 132db sustained IRL.....try hitting that in your next wall build!

That all being said 25-35 is really really low and is virtually non-existant in 80's rock....or even most music today that isn't "chopped and screwed". Also worthy of restoration is George Clinton/Parliament .... "Flashlight" sounded really good when I had the Audiocontrol Epic hooked up.

1. Create super Low freq mix cd

2. ????????

3. Profit!

Focus on good fronts, good install (some sound deadening work in the doors will pay off a LOT) Small sub in rear 4 channel amp. DO shop around before you buy gear. Bing.com/live.com cashback might save you a good chunk of change to if you pay via paypal.

There isn't a magic barrier in your car that keeps the sound from getting to the back especially if you have 100W up front on some good components! I personally ONLY use rears for surround sound (movies).

Some folks say that a big port is just an extension of the penis. Nothing phalic about that whatsoever......

Nothing else in signal path.

Further testing reveals it may be an issue with my electrical system (though I'm still not sure why it doesn't reveal itself with the amps as individuals?). After some highway driving and a full charge on batteries the noise seems to quiet right down.

WIll have all my batteries tested this week and probalby test my alt as well (though that's only 1 year old). Anyway these amps are pretty ballsy it's getting loud enough that I feel it's actually getting dangerous and I can tell you moderation in things has never been my long suit.

Thanks for all the help fellas. I gotta say these amps are as good as anything in their class and the support here is right up there with the best in the industry.

I promise you won't notice the difference between 5,000W and 4,500W (possibly not even on a meter). I say go with whichever will give you the best customer support and will be easiest to buy and get support for in your country. Try contacting Stetsom and ask some questions and see how they treat you.

Found some cheap RCA's....no help there. Will attempt to level match for now, but would love to get this straightened out to run to a single 3 ohm coil LMS driver.

You can gain match them separately -- if you are within 0.1v or so it's perfect.

Generally if there is a noise when strapped it can be resolved by changing the RCA cable between the amps.

I think this would be very difficult with tolerances. Also would make using remote knob a bit tough. Any particular brand/style of RCA that is known to work? If you have a 2 footer you could ship me I'd pay if it works.

So far used :

Stinger

Radio Shack (middle of the road)

Tributary

Might add that the noise begins AS SOON AS the center pin makes contact inside the female on the amp.

More testing today. Tweaking ground does nothing.

RCA from HU removed = still engine noise

Both amps hooked up but not to eachother = no noise

RCA between amps removed = no noise

tested 3 different type/size/brand RCA's seemed to have no effect.

This noise is horrid someone please help, I can't be the only one to have had this problem. Running each amp separately to each woofer is out since I need the subs level matched.

If the box is linear and musical that's a very respectable #. If you want a big number tune high, huge aero-port and more power. (I'd suggest building a whole separate box for that since the box that'll get you high 140's will not sound nice with music)

Well,As I mentioned here. I did get a chance to hook up the second SAZ 3000D today.

http://www.soundsolu...r-not-to-strap/

I measured a nominal 3 ohm load with each coil series and each woofer parallel to eachother. Anyway in theory there would be something to gain (stability if nothing else) running these subs strapped to the 3 ohm load.

Initial testing reveals noticeable gain in output and in SQ. BUT there's a nasty engine noise from the subs now. Seems to not be effected by the gain.

Both amps connected to the same battery (in the trunk) with <3ft lengths of #1/0 guage. resting at 12.6V car off (total 3 batteries in car). RCA is a 1.5ft piece of high qualtiy patch cable.

Now if I ONLY remove the speaker leads, and move the main source RCA to either amp both run dead quiet.

Any ideas of a fix for this? I would really like to keep the pair of these for the extra power and to run them in a more stable impedence. I'm also planning to get a 3 ohm TC LMS driver that I would like to have these two strapped into for playing around with so being able to drive 4KWish into a 3 ohm load (WITHOUT noise) is now my goal.

Question to the part in red. Are the speakers disconnected when you run the setup non strapped?? Also do you have pin connectors on the end of the speaker wire?? Cause my ESX 60.4 did a similar sound and all it was was the set screw was destorying the wire. So i added pin connectors and the sound vanished.

LOL, yes speaker connected, I meant removed the - to - wires. and the RCA between master out and slave in. Hooking up speaker to either amp.

No pin connectors, but again, just one amp or the other and no noise. Also no isses with protect mode as others mentioned could be a problem, output is fantastic.

Again, will test more in the daylight tomorrow.

The strapping, the 3 ohms, even the amps them selves have nothing to do with your engine noise.

Try removing the RCA's from the amp, is the noise still there? If it is, the problem lies with your amplifier ground. If its gone, the problem lies with the head unit.

Both amps are dead quiet when not strapped. Both grounds straight to the same negative battery terminal <3ft from the amps on 1/0 guage.

Will play more tomorrow in the daylight.

is the crack in the basket repairable?

Ehh, not sure. It is possible if you want to try, but I would not suggest it. Would probably be best to just get an entire new top assembly.

its worth a shot, and if i do ill just pick up a new top assembly. could this be build into like a 10 since i already have a spare 10" basket here?

That I am not sure of, but I don't see why not. I would suggest emailing Mach5 to find out any specifics in terms of rebuilding. It is a 2" coil motor, but as for specs, I don't have them.

ok ill decide that after i try to fix the sub. and thanks for the input cause im going to pick this up just to mess around with it.

Try some JB Weld. I tore an aluminum cone apart and mended it with some and it's holding up very well to some serious punishment.