Well,As I mentioned here. I did get a chance to hook up the second SAZ 3000D today.

I measured a nominal 3 ohm load with each coil series and each woofer parallel to eachother. Anyway in theory there would be something to gain (stability if nothing else) running these subs strapped to the 3 ohm load.

Initial testing reveals noticeable gain in output and in SQ. BUT there's a nasty engine noise from the subs now. Seems to not be effected by the gain.

Both amps connected to the same battery (in the trunk) with <3ft lengths of #1/0 guage. resting at 12.6V car off (total 3 batteries in car). RCA is a 1.5ft piece of high qualtiy patch cable.

Now if I ONLY remove the speaker leads, and move the main source RCA to either amp both run dead quiet.

Any ideas of a fix for this? I would really like to keep the pair of these for the extra power and to run them in a more stable impedence. I'm also planning to get a 3 ohm TC LMS driver that I would like to have these two strapped into for playing around with so being able to drive 4KWish into a 3 ohm load (WITHOUT noise) is now my goal.

WOW, lot of man hours into this job!

I have a few pair of those vifa tweeters they do sound particularly nice on-axis (off axis...not so hot) definitley picked the best spot for them IMO.

single 15 maybe? definitely not 18's. I agree with Jay-cee, 2 -12" is probably the best bet.

X3

I like single driver personally, pair of 12's and single 15 is about the same.....damn I really wish I had a hatchback (

correct me if i'm wrong here but would the 14,000w stetsom amp not be able to produce no where near that power for daily use?

For a single power\ground run, i can't see it doin it for daily without the wire melting... I'm surprised they chose that route for just burping as well.

I don't know how many amps a 1/0 cable can take for just a few ft distance but most manufacturers decide to go with dual power\ground where operating amps close to or over 5kw.

Odds are if you're listening to music over time the amp would be in the 1-2KW range anyway. IF you like to drive around playing sine waves at 14KW you've got some problems and really good luck with the charging system that'll supply 1,000 amperes at 18V for more than a second or two.

I also suspect you wouldn't be able to hear the difference between 14KW and 10 KW without testing equipment.

There's a pretty good chart of what wire is reccomended to carry for current at www.weldingsupply.com. Again, you're listening to music (supposedly?) which is dynamic in nature on a system that very rarely would need or even be able to draw max current.

Are you SURE you need down to 20hz? I tune that low for movies and I promise you'll need to download "chopped and screwed" songs to get even into the 30's. Pipe organ music will have sub-harmonics down as low as 8hz.

Do yourself a favor and before you decide on 20hz get some test tones and listen to them on a capable system and you might be surprised that what you think is 20 is more like 35-40.

Almost any 18" sub will do it (look for one with high x-max and low fs as an 18 with low x-max and high fs is designed for 50hz farts). Large box tuned low will get you there (or large sealed or IB).

For an amp, doubling power is only 2.6db gain in a perfect world so if you're up in the 1000-1500W range, don't sweat a couple hundred "rated" watts like it'll make much difference. Shoot for something that is known to be reliable that you can get from a company with good customer support. PLENTY of options out there for large mono-blocks.

If you like actual music, they suck beyond belief. if you want to be a child with a car that goes BBBBZZZZZZZZ and a one note wonder with zero quality, go for it. Any amp pushing that much power that is quality will cost THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS, PERIOD!

This comment is based on what?

Never used Stetsom, and I will say there isn't "sound quality" at 150db, but this seems a pretty bold statement.

Monkeybutt's driver ships out today. Bad news is that I did one more inspection of Unit #2 and there was a crack in the basket from the return shipping to us. So monkeybutt has #1 coming to him instead. I will update the topic now.

If anyone wants Unit #2 for the motor, I am re-listing it as such.

So will #2 come with the basket + soft parts or is it now just a motor?

Lincoln is a rough trunk as the space through which soundwaves can get between trunk and cabin is pretty small and there's a LOT of steel and stuffing in between as well.

IMO getting really ballsy with removing that stuff will pay off. I'd consider porting through the rear deck as well. I did an older towncar with a bandpass that ported up through the rear deck with decent results though that would likely be impractical with 18's for a number of reasons.

Didn't I see a good deal on a Soundsplinter 8" on the forum here somewhere? Would probably be a great option for small and clean.

Lanzar Opti 6000D can be had on eBay for 1100ish. That style opti is pretty solid and reliable.

Don't rule out a pair of 2500 or 3KW amps that can strap (would essentially be 1 amp) Kicker KX2500.1 Sundown SAZ3000D etc. etc. Plenty of options that would get you into that power/price point if you went refurb.

We used to do this in electronics class with signal generator and a small speaker....just wiggle it around 18K and see who starts reacting.

All people are different so I wouldn't get too worried if you can't hear > 14Khz Really you're missing NOTHING in music in that range anyway.

50% vic, 50% lincoln.

50% blades, 0% spokes.

So, in the event that i choose the lincoln, (this is what i hear most of you posting), what should i do to make keeping it pretty, a little easier?

And on to my second question, what setup(s) do you guys think would make the most of the space available? My first thought was two 15's, after looking at Jons trunk, those seem to fit nice and cozy. My goal is output, without making a fartbox. I'd like to see 145-150dB on music, but keep it tuned low, maybe 28hz, i want every note to be loud and proud.

Off the top of my head, i would love to see two Xcon 15's i there, and a 3500D audioque, or sundown, but with the space requirements and a tuning that low, would the overall size be too big?

I have a couple songs i would love to show off with when i get a car, the two that some up first are "dopeman" (slowed to 83%) by OJ da Juiceman, and Never scared Chopped & Screwed by Bonecrusher. Just gets me all excited

And a question to all you lincoln owners, would it sound good, to remove the speakers from the rear deck, to let more bass into the cabin?

Finally, for a front stage would these be suffiecient? Only 90rms, but they look pretty good.

http://www.woofersetc.com/p1103/EF61CV-CDT-Audio-EuroFit-65"-2Way-Component-Speakers.htm

thanks,

-Chris

Tuning to 28 and 145-150 is NOT going to happen for you period. Not in a sedan, not with only 2 15's. If you want 145-150 you will need a big box with big ports tuned high. Considering there's guys with small hatchbacks, dual 18's and 6+KW that only hit 145 @ 30hz. and that's doing hair tricks.

OH, and I really really miss driving a lincoln Have used towncar and continental in the past, both really really pleasant to drive, not so great for accoustics.... If you want accoustics stick to SUV, king-cab pickup, wagon, or hatchback.

Looks like a pretty efficient use of space.

If you have a sedan (can't see from the pic) Do be sure you don't block off all the airflow between trunk and cabin. You'll lose a ton of output. Also if you can spare the wood and time building a temp box that's small enough to move around and test different angles will help a LOT. You may find a HUGE difference in freq response and output by just pointing the woofer/ports in different directions. Also, don't rule out using passive radiator(s) in place of ports if you want to save space.

I only ever use Sears deep cycle batteries. They do the job for me and their warranty is good.

It isn't really a bass boost. It restores low freq stuff that is lost in poor/old recordings.

I had one for a while and it was very nice for a lot of older stuff (James Brown, Parliament, older Metallica/Megadeth).

On new recordings it was overwhelming. I really wouldn't reccomend it unless you had some equipment that could dig deep as most of the stuff it adds is in the <30hz range. Mic was off by quite a bit but a useful tool for the sake of just finding peaks and weak spots in response.

The difference in price between what I bought and sold mine for was only the cost of eBay fees (about 30$) so IMO well worth playing with/testing.

You migt want to consider how much space you have to work with for a box and work around that. Enclosure, install, and accoustics of the car will make more difference than your choice of gear. There's plenty of stuff around here that would sound great if used properly for <300$ (hint hint, search classifieds).

i dont like strapping amps, but in your case....since your equipment doesnt match up properly its your only choice for good power.

strapped @ 4 ohms = around 3k before rise

one @ 1 ohm = the same

strapped @ 1 ohm (which is what id do in your position) is over6k @ 1 ohm if you have the electrical to back it, and two broken amps if you dont.

Assuming same power there is the benefit of being able to run things at higher impedence (which I generally like SQ is superior).

I was talking about strapping to 4 ohms. I have 2X deep cycle batteries in the trunk, HO alternator, and 1/0 guage all around.... Check my sig I'm replacing 4X 1KW class A/B amps that I was able to feed.

I don't think I want a pair of 600$ doorstops. How many people really have smoked these amps? What kind of abuse were they really giving them? Dunno how long my subs would hold up to 3KW ea either....

If I get a free day before the fall fishing picks up I'll probably do some testing and report back anyway. So far I'm liking just the 1. Quite capable and reasonably efficient.

In the meantime, manual for the NEW amps here:

Brix were shat.

damn this suck now i have second thoughts of getting the RL-p 12.

are these sub sq or bass??

wonder do the RL-i or RL-p even out perform jlw7?

I'd take Rl-S over W7

I'd swear by TC subs, but W7 is a very nice product...my only beef with them is the price.

You'll know an SPL sub. They have low Q, low MMS, low X-max, high Fs, and huge thermal power handling.

Yes, gain matching is making sure that both amps are set at the same amount of output. This is not as simple as eyeballing where the gains are because each amp may produce a different amount of power at it's current power. This process needs to be done correctly with the right tools.

should i just have my audio shop where im gettin everythin installed at do it?

Simple way at low power hook each amp up out-of-phase to 2 coils of a DVC sub when amps are gained exactly even sub will not move at all.

Unfortunately it's not completely exact unless you can bypass all EQ and X-over functions of the amps as well. Even then there could be slight varience.

Otherwise using an o-scope would be optimum.

So thinking about this. I'm wanting to drive 2-12s with a S3ohm coil each, 2-8s S8ohm coil each, and 2-compression drivers s8ohm coil each. Need to stay in the 2 amp set up. So thinking use a Lev- bridge 3+4 and 5+6 mono for 600w per sub, use channels 1 and 2 for the compression drivers and use a Kronos for the mid bass? or get 2 Lev's and bridge bot to 3 channels and use each amp to drive one side of the car. Which would you recommend? Guess I might have to sell my Sundown's

One of each or two Leviathans for more flexibility down the road. 6 channel amp with this output with a small footprint leaves a lot of options open. Realy a 2 channel and 6 channel should give you plenty of options as well.

One thing to consider if the last run of Zed amps is any indicator I suspect the Leviathans will hold the most re-sale value (try to get hold of a Draconia...and that's only 4 channel!!)

Considering what a POS the Alpine PDX 5 channel is (and at half the output) and what those sell for I think the Leviathan is a steal.

Sent my deposit for Leviathan.

What's the deal with shipping if I were to get into a Leviathan?

Most Zed amps DO NOT like 2 ohms bridged....and I mean in an angry smoking way don't like.

If you search around forums there's a handfull that bridge to <4 ohms, but probalby less than 10 out of all the stuff he ever built.

I would just do one amp at one ohm.

OK. Thanks for the quick answer!

By the way, very nice product, and I do see you on a LOT of forums trying to help out people...really impressed with the way you do business.