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I just bought a zv5 15 thinking it was dual 2 ohm and it’s dual 1 ohm. I have a few questions. First, can it be recone to dual 2? Because I read some motors are only configured to function on the original impedance. Idk. And if I can’t get it recone, can I run that amp at .5 ohm unclipped on that zv5 and not overpower it? Should I run it at 2 ohms? I hope it can be reconed to dual 2. In need of help. Thank u.
By Aaron Clinton
We have finally released our new amp. It is a tiny tiny production run to see how people like them. Meant for the high end, SQ market, without the European price tag. If this model moves as well as I hope, it will help spawn another model in the line up soon.
Introducing the all new SSA DM150.2 amplifier. An old school approach, with updated components, for the most discerning of ears. If your front stage is lacking warmth and clarity, its time to upgrade. Our first amplifier in our high-end, sound quality, Class- A/B - Demon amplifier line. The SSA DM150.2 is the elite choice for that high end active front stage, premium passive components, and especially a sound quality sub (SSA Demon). We've incorporated direct inputs for those competition installs that use an external DSP and want their amp to be a pure gain block. Stellar looks to match the design and components. Don't let your speakers or your ears down, #levelup to the all new SSA DM150.2 amplifier.
150 Watts RMS X 2 @ 4 Ohm 500 Watts RMS X 1 @ 4 Ohm Angled Terminals for show quality installations Full Complimentary low distortion Class AB design Tiffany Style RCA connectorsFull Complimentary low distortion Class AB design Butterworth Crossover Filters for premium level performance An extra pair of input connectors for a direct input that will bypass the crossover so the amp can act as a gain block The op amps featured are TI chips w/BB technology high performance audio grade IC's Docking Pads® to reduce vibration & extend the life the amplifier DC, Short Circuit, Thermal & Overload Protection, on board fusing Diagnostic LEDs Specifications
OUTPUT POWER @ 14.4V input RMS per channel at 4 Ohms 150 W x 2 CH RMS per channel at 2 Ohms 250 W x 2 CH RMS Bridged Mono at 4 Ohms 500 W x 1 CH RMS Mono at 1 Ohm N/A INPUT SENSITIVITY 200mV - 6.0V FREQUENCY RESPONSE 10Hz - 30KHz +/- 0.5dB THD LESS THAN 0.01% S/N RATIO > 103 dB CHANNEL SEPARATION > 91 dB DAMPING FACTOR @100Hz 4 ohm > 200 CROSSOVER RANGE High Pass, 12dB/Octave 80-1.2K Hz Low Pass, 24dB/Octave 10Hz - 250Hz Subsonic N/A Variable Bass Boost (0 to +12 dB bass boost at 45 Hz) Yes Phase Shift (0 - 180 degrees) No Fusing 3 x 40A Size (L x W x H) in 16.4 x 8.9 x 2.2
By Aaron Clinton
I am working to expand our amplifier offerings, while staying high quality, somewhat unique, and affordable.
First up looks like a class-A/B 6 channel. No crossover network, individual gains, 150watts x 6, will keep footprint as small as possible for the design, similar appearance to the current models. Feeling out interest as it will effect the total amps I put into production.
As a side note, I am considering a 2-channel of the same line, but the demand for 2 channels right now are so low. Would not really want to build them if they are going to sit for a while.
Just curious on any input before I get production going.
Hey guys, I'm new here but been messing around with audio in my cars on an amateur level for quite a while. I recently decided to do an amp/sub install on my newly acquired 2006 Infiniti M45. It has a factory 14 speaker BOSE system. As far as the audio upgrades I've added is as follows.
-Sundown Audio SCV3000d amp
-1 Sundown Audio X12 @ 1ohm in ported box to spec
-0 gauge wiring ran to trunk to additional audio battery and capacitor
-6 gauge wiring from amp to sub
-LOC taped into the stock Bose sub inputs
Problem is that the sub doesn't sound nearly as loud as it should although the sound it does produce is very clear. I went from 2 SA12's in my last car with a 1500 watt amp and was impressed so I decided to upgrade power and sub to the X12. I also noticed that the amp is clipping anytime I turn the bass boost over 1/3 on the remote dial which also has the clipping LED indicator. The gain on the amp is maybe in the 10 o'clock position and I'm really just wondering if it's maybe the signal from the Bose amp that is causing this and/or if there is a better location to tap into for the bass signal.
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