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I just bought a zv5 15 thinking it was dual 2 ohm and it’s dual 1 ohm. I have a few questions. First, can it be recone to dual 2? Because I read some motors are only configured to function on the original impedance. Idk. And if I can’t get it recone, can I run that amp at .5 ohm unclipped on that zv5 and not overpower it? Should I run it at 2 ohms? I hope it can be reconed to dual 2. In need of help. Thank u.
By Second Skin
Duster Joe's 1976 Plymouth Duster Trunk Build
Customer Joe M. Build Info:
1976 Plymouth Duster 2006 6.1L Hemi 1996 Borg Warner T56 (Viper) Trunk is 53 cu/ft space
Complete car was done with three boxes of Damplifier Pro (90 sqft total). Trunk specially was completed using 8-10 sheets of Damplifier Pro.
The trunk before any Damplifier Pro sound deadening.
Installing the Damplifier Pro butyl sheets.
Interior trunk walls only needed one full sheet of Damplifier Pro each to reduce sound to just a deep thump.
After the Second Skin Damplifier Pro was installed. The Damplifier Pro dropped the sound of the fuel pump to nearly no sound at all.
Here a picture showing the trunk sound deadening completed. It’s totally covering the floor, wheel wells and one full sheet of Damplifier Pro on each inner quarter panel. The rear trunk panel was completely done as well.
By Second Skin
The awesome guys at Colorado Car Audio just finished a sweet Dodge Ram 3500 Pro Master Van build with full sound and heat insulation along with a stereo upgrade and the work is very nice!!!
They applied Spectrum and Damplifier Pro CLD to all of the metal to kill vibration noise and help with heat transfer through the metal. They used Luxury Liner Pro MLV+CCF next to block out unwanted airborne noise and thermally insulate the walls. And they used Mega Zorbe Hydrophobic Melamine Foam to absorb sound and thermally insulate the roof of this huge van!!!
When the proper layers are applied to the correct locations, a huge difference in noise level reduction can be achieved. Setting the stage for a nice and clean platform for your stereo to perform in a much more enjoyable environment....especially with these tin can sprinter vans....treating them makes a HUGE difference in noise comfort levels.
Thank you guys for the awesome work and pictures. Thank you for insisting on high-quality Second Skin products for all of your builds. #TeamSecondSkin #SecondSkinUSA #SecondSkinAudio #SecondSkinForTheWin
Spectrum Liquid Sound Deadening
Luxury Liner Pro Mass Loaded Vinyl with Closed Cell Foam infused
Mega Zorbe Standard Hydrophbic Melamine Foam
New Kenwood Touch Screen Head Unit
Upgraded Stereo System
Hey guys, I'm new here but been messing around with audio in my cars on an amateur level for quite a while. I recently decided to do an amp/sub install on my newly acquired 2006 Infiniti M45. It has a factory 14 speaker BOSE system. As far as the audio upgrades I've added is as follows.
-Sundown Audio SCV3000d amp
-1 Sundown Audio X12 @ 1ohm in ported box to spec
-0 gauge wiring ran to trunk to additional audio battery and capacitor
-6 gauge wiring from amp to sub
-LOC taped into the stock Bose sub inputs
Problem is that the sub doesn't sound nearly as loud as it should although the sound it does produce is very clear. I went from 2 SA12's in my last car with a 1500 watt amp and was impressed so I decided to upgrade power and sub to the X12. I also noticed that the amp is clipping anytime I turn the bass boost over 1/3 on the remote dial which also has the clipping LED indicator. The gain on the amp is maybe in the 10 o'clock position and I'm really just wondering if it's maybe the signal from the Bose amp that is causing this and/or if there is a better location to tap into for the bass signal.
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