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Okay, we were finally able to get the vehicle that will be replacing the van as our daily driver. I found a nice 2010 Traverse AWD with everything the wife wanted in it and a little more with decent miles on it and I even got a decent deal on it. Now, the wife realized before we even got serious about shopping for one that we should probably tone down the size of the install in the new vehicle. While she was/is still wanting some good sounding speakers and some bump going to the the size and extent of the build in the van was more than we need for this one. One of the biggest reasons for that was simply because of the damage the Q's caused the van. Before I installed them it was QUIET, not one interior panel rattled or made noise, not hardly a hint of sheet metal rattling could be heard. At this point now not only is there a great deal of noise coming from the interior panels (particularly in the rear) but the Q's even managed to tear a spot welded seam in the floor of the van loose. We simply don't want to repeat that in the new one.
For this build we're looking at something smaller, possibly along the lines of a pair of 10's if the space is right, single 12, etc. Something like the DCON, GCON or ICON come to mind, SSD's, possibly even IA or something else I've not got a chance to try yet as well. We'll be running 1,000 to 1,500 watts on the subs and no more than that at all. What goes in will depend completely upon the space available and which sub choice will work best with that space. I'm going to try to keep the rear of the vehicle as usable as possible so I'm probably going to be building an enclosure with the subs firing downward and the port to the side. The enclosure will likely consume all the space available on the width and depth behind the 3rd row seat and my limiting factor will be that we're trying to keep the enclosure height to about half the total height of the 3rd row seat.
The wife wants another Kenwood HU so we'll likely be ordering a DDX491HD and a Maestro RR integration unit this weekend for the source and to keep all the factory wheel functions and such. I'm looking to use a PPI P900.4 for the highs and a similarly sized subwoofer amp to run the subs and those will be tucked away in the storage compartment under the floor in the rear with added ventilation if necessary.
That brings me to my biggest frustration with this build, lol. Before we got serious about shopping for a vehicle the wife was COMPLETELY on board for me doing whatever was necessary to install the Bravox 603's. Fiberglassed custom door panels were in the plans for whatever that vehicle was going to be, uh, well, right up until we picked up the Travy. Now it's, "You aren't really going to cut it up and put holes in the doors are you?" and "There's already places for tweeters, you can just use those right?" then finally "You can just use the factory places for now, I want it to have a good sounding stereo but not know it until you hear it, as in can't see nothin'."
So, there goes anything remotely close to what I was wanting to do. I thought if the Bravox's wouldn't work out I might do a dedicated full range/midbass setup, or maybe even the equivalent of the Arc Audio Black 6.2 speakers in the SB Acoustic's mid and tweeter that Arc is using, or something really and truly worth a damn to do. Nope. She gave me a pretty much open budget for speakers but I don't see the point in spending any kind of good money on a set of components that cannot be optimally installed. So I'm not completely sure where I'm going to go with the highs. I have found a hell of a deal (<$250)on a new set of Kicker QS65.2 components which I'm leaning toward but I have to verify if there's any possibility of getting that tweeter behind the A pillar. I've also looked at the MB Quart QC216 set which has a nice looking large format tweeter but since Maxxsonics has their nasty hands in MBQ now I'm kind of shying away from them as well. As soon as I can figure out what the hell to do (still need to verify some measurements) I'll pull the trigger on equipment and get it coming.
Although the Travy is pretty quiet from the factory I'm still going to be ordering some SDS to treat the doors and all of the rear to start with. I'll work on the floor and roof after we've had it a little while. It has the sun roofs so I'm not in a real hurry to tear all that interior off the roof, nor am I in a hurry to figure out how to tear all the seats, center console, and carpeting out to treat those areas just yet. I also have to pull the door panels off to see what kind of baffles I'll need to construct for it. Luckily with the lower power I'm looking at running and the 170A factory alternator I shouldn't be looking at having to do anything too major on the electrical side of things. Probably just the BIG 3 in 1/0 with Knu Kolossus.
So, that's the, um, kind of the plan, for what little plan there is. The more I can verify as far as fit in this thing the better the direction for what/where it will go is going to look. I hope to have all that figured out and to be ordering equipment and supplies this weekend.
Here's a quick shot of the Travy. I just grabbed it to show to a co-worker.
Any input is welcome, especially from anyone who's done some install work in one of these as the entire Lambda platform is completely new to me.
Ok, so I've never put a build log on here so please bear with me if I mess this up.
This started as me wanting to get louder and ended up like nothing I could have imagined.
Its a 2006 Chevy Silverado EXT cab 71 pickup with the 5.3L.
Equipment installed is:
2 Singer 350A Alternators (stock running as master)
American Bass 1100.1
5 C&D Batts
1 XS Power up front
2 sets Boston Pro 60SE Components (Running as coaxial)
Boston 2 channel
6 SSA Zcon 15s (4th order enclosure)
Some tire/suspension mods to hide the almost 2000lbs of equipment.
First the walkaround
now into the build pics: (I didnt take very many)
^^^^Crossovers in place of factory bose amp
^^^^Light Test of Million color LEDs
^^^More Color Test
^^Starting to work on the back
^^^Ready for fuses
^^^ Port into cab done.. It needs tuned yet but it hit 154.2 sealed on the TL at 46hz (too high for my blood, gonna put in a loading wall and drop it down. Shooting for 35-40hz peak)
More to come!!
So I finally decided to start a build log on here.I had sort of one in the photography thread awhile back. Im in the process of building a wall for 6 of the Fi Team Series 15's on 3 DC 9k's and a ton of other extras. This will be my third build and I have done everything on my own except the doors and VU-Din/Volt meter setup which I had my Italian shop in Italy do. So here are some pics of the old setup and some pics of the new build coming here shortly. Pics arent in any specific order but best score with the 4th order and 2 18" N2's was a 152.9 sealed. Never did the door open in the kick as i prefer sealed up numbers.It could also play music at a 51 for 1 min which the Italian's call War Machine LoL. Well enjoy and let me know what you think.
hey guys i'll follow mklett's pattern
Vehicle : 2012 chevy cruze
Location in the vehicle: trunk
Space available (Length x Width x Height): 36x16x24
Subwoofer make and model: american bass xfl
Subwoofer Size: 10
Number of Subwoofers: 2 or 3
Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): slot or aero
What type of music do you like?: mostly hip hop/rap but also rock
Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: everyday
Tuning Freq (Hz): 33-35
Questions: i'm trying to figure out the best possible orientation, size, port, and tuning for this car.
i have a prefab ported box for 2 tens that i've had in the car for 2 weeks and have played it firing into car with it sealed off using 1/4 ply (wasn't glued or foamed so not 100% seal) and also firing at the trunk. sounds best firing at the trunk but i do plan on competing with the car but it is my daily so i'm looking for the best of both worlds. this is the first CAR i'm trying to make loud. i've had my blazer before along with working with ramrod on his van and the yukon.
for the box, i'm trying to do the 3 10s ported into the car. would it be beneficial to aero port through the rear deck or would it be better to keep them all on the same face? i'm going to do an amp floor behind the box so i can still use the trunk for backpacks and luggage since i do go to school full time and travel somewhere far every couple weeks with a 2 other people. my seats do fold down but do not have a ski pass. if i were to cut out some metal brackets that are not load bearing, i can make my box 40x17x24 max. there is no real answer anywhere as to what size to make boxes for xfls but after researching, a lot of people have luck using 1.25-1.75 per sub tuned to about 35hz. any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
can also just use 2 of the 10s and throw the 3rd in gfs ride but would want to use it myself if it isn't a dumb idea
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