Need help from Electrical Gurus

[jntar 15]

So I get to the alt shop and talk to the guy. We test my alt with a clamp meter and a volt meter. Here is the results.

No accesories

12.7@600rpm

13.9@700rpm

14.5@900+rpm

Acc on (no stereo, just lights and A/C)

11.8@600rpm

13.6@700rpm

14.5@900+rpm

Now here is the part that gets me. The alt shop told me that I do not need a smaller pully.

Shop: "You need another battery and an isolator."

Me: Why???

Shop: You have plenty of amps but low voltage.

Me: OK, another battery run by itself is going to help?

Shop: Sure it will...

Me: please explain this to me?

Shop: the second battery will no longer be tied to any of the other accories in your truck.

Me: thats fine and all, but when the other amps are installed the voltage will again drop even lower having to charge the same accories, the second battery, and the new amp. Thus wouldnt the voltage drop even lower?

Shop: no that is where the second battery helps out.

Me: Wouldnt a smaller pully do the exact same thing and cost me a hell of a lot less time, money, and effort?

Shop: no...

It goes round and round like that. Over and over again.

What should I do?

Pully (cost ~$100 total)

Or

Isolator, battery, and battery tray

(Isolator for ~200amps $250, battery $150, tray $50, labor $ oh chit...)

HELP!!!

[ANeonRider 3]

Pulley. Guy is full of chit, adding another battery will do nothing for your low voltage problem at idle.

[Chevy350TPI 12]

Pulley.

Cheapest option + I bet / I would hope it works.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Another battery is just another load on the alternator. If it is straining now, the extra battery will do no good.

The biggest problem with HO alts is that they only work with higher RPMs, not idle speeds. Problem with that is most get dimming and low voltage problems at idle. No way in hell the manufacturer is going to tell you this. They'll lose a sale. The HO alt will simply not cure this, unless spun faster, basically upping the voltage.

[jntar 15]

Another battery is just another load on the alternator.  If it is straining now, the extra battery will do no good.

The biggest problem with HO alts is that they only work with higher RPMs, not idle speeds.  Problem with that is most get dimming and low voltage problems at idle.  No way in hell the manufacturer is going to tell you this.  They'll lose a sale.  The HO alt will simply not cure this, unless spun faster, basically upping the voltage.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yeah, things I now know Oh well you live and learn.

Well, I went to another shop. Let me tell you this guy was MUCH more knowedgeable then the other. He told me that the pully currently on there was very small as it is. He had his systems shut down when I got there but he will look in the AM for me a smaller pulley. He also suggested that I let him open her up...well...that voids warranty. He told me that he would warrant a 1 year warranty on Nates alt if he did any work to it...He said that he can change the charging curve to allow for full voltage at idle. This guy had about 30 plaques or so on his wall with his name on it from sposoring audio competitors. I have a feeling this is the route I will be taking.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Another battery is just another load on the alternator.

[jntar 15]

Another battery is just another load on the alternator.

[finebar4 0]

Hey Jntar I just got mine back tonight. What kinda issues you having?

[jntar 15]

Extremly low voltage at idle. Better yet, no voltage from alt at idle. Truck runs off the battery when at a red light.

[finebar4 0]

Extremly low voltage at idle.  Better yet, no voltage from alt at idle.  Truck runs off the battery when at a red light.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Does your message center give you any type of alert? When I first got mine, it didn't charge at all but I wrote it off to shipping damage as the stators were bent up. Nate put a new voltage regulator in, am gonna test it out tomorrow. Did you just put it in today?

[jntar 15]

Extremly low voltage at idle.

[finebar4 0]

Its been in since last Friday. No message alert from the computer. My conscern is that when I add the 1100rms the voltage is going to drop low enough that the Memphis is gonna fry. sad.gif

I just put mine in this morning. Got up real early and took a huge chance and put it in before going to a meeting. With the voltage you are seeing I put my trusty ole Fluke to it and I am seeing 14.3 at idle with mine. When I got it the first time and put it in, I got a message on the computer immediatly warning me that the truck was running off battery. I sent it back about 3 weeks ago and talked to Nate last week, he was quite busy with the group buy thing but had thrown it on his truck and got same response. He put a new voltage regulator in it and like I say, 14.3 at idle. I would suspect that first, and thats probably what the alternator shop that builds them near you will replace.

[jntar 15]

Its been in since last Friday. No message alert from the computer. My conscern is that when I add the 1100rms the voltage is going to drop low enough that the Memphis is gonna fry. sad.gif

I just put mine in this morning.

[jntar 15]

I pucking quit!!!

My last email to Nathan...

Pully is as small as I can get, only other options are

crank pully or have the other shop open it up.

Neither of which I want to have done. I will be

uninstallng it tonight and sending it back to you.

Take a look at it when you get it back. If you find

nothing wrong with it then I guess I am SOL. I you

will be so kind as to refund me that would be great. I

not I understand, at that point you may keep your alt

and I will have someone local build me one. Sorry that

I have been a pain or caused you any trouble. My next

and final email should have your tracking number.

Thanks,

Justin Tillery

[jntar 15]

Quickest responce from him yet...

My reply too.

I understand and I am not blaming you for MY lack of research. Any thing you can do would be great, honestly if you cant do anything keep the alternator.

-Justin

--- nathan peddicord <nathanpeddicord@yahoo.com> wrote:

> I will check it out and see what I can do to get

> it to cut on sooner. I cannot give you a refund on

> the alternator after it is installed, The info is

> in the paperwork that I sent with it that tells what

> rpm it cuts on , ect. The alternator should cut on

> at 650 rpm.

[finebar4 0]

I have the 250 amp large case as well. My truck idles at the same RPM, with a slight tap of the gass, I jump to about 15 volts at the terminal of the alt. I can feel your pain, it crushed me to pull mine out and ship it back.

[jntar 15]

I have the 250 amp large case as well. My truck idles at the same RPM, with a slight tap of the gass, I jump to about 15 volts at the terminal of the alt.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Justin, the low voltage should not fry the amp, rather it just will not work.

[jntar 15]

Justin, the low voltage should not fry the amp, rather it just will not  work.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I have heard/seen different. The first HCCA I had was sold to a friend. I installed it @1ohm the bass would hit and drop the car to a very ow voltage. Eventually one day it went up n smoke. We called Orion and that is what the tech explained to me had happened.

I dont know...

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Justin, the low voltage should not fry the amp, rather it just will not  work.

I have heard/seen different. The first HCCA I had was sold to a friend. I installed it @1ohm the bass would hit and drop the car to a very ow voltage. Eventually one day it went up n smoke. We called Orion and that is what the tech explained to me had happened.

I dont know...

Could very well be true, but with today's electronics, it should just shut the amp off.