ulrisa
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Posts posted by ulrisa
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I was thinking about my wiring set up today. In my new vehicle I have yet to do the Big 3, but I do have a dedicated 1/0 ground wire that goes from my back battery to my front. Is it really necessary to do the big 3 if you have a dedicated ground? I can see the upgrade being useful if you are using a chassis ground because your return path would be limited to the chassis to battery, but if that is elimated is there still a benefit?
As far as resistance for the power wire goes, lets say the wire from the alternator to the battery is 4 feet. The stock wiring is 8 awg, which in general has a resistance of 2.061 ohms/km. This means the resistance of the wire is 0.00251 ohms. 1/0 awg has a resistance of 0.3224 ohms/km, so the resistance is .00039 ohms. It would seem that the benefit of switching this wire out is lost at this point.
I have considered switching my dedicated ground to a second power run and then doing the big 3, but I'm not sure if I need to yet.
I'm just wondering what your opinions are, and whether I'm looking at this the wrong way.
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I heard this one today at work actually. "I took out my back seats man and had two jackhammers. I forgot to turn my amps off, volume down, and they like blew all my windows out. These subs needed like 3 amps each man, they were nuts" lol it was hard not to laugh.
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I just used Great Stuff foam insulation from walmart and I had great results.
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If you can take advantage of a no interest for x months deal I would go for it if you can pay it back in x months. I've been doing this for a while and its building credit, and also giving me things I want instantly . Credit is only a bad thing when you don't have the cash to pay it off before the interest hits.
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Having experience with this type of build myself there are two ways to go about it. Have the subs rear facing if you are not sealing off the trunk. If you have them forward facing without sealing off the trunk you will experience cancellation. The benefit of sealing off the trunk is that there will be little to no trunk rattle, which also means less coloration to the sound due to vibrating panels. There is usually in increase in output in this configuration as well due to less cancellation (rear wave and forward wave separated).
The cons of sealing the trunk are damaging the vehicle, difficulty level, and the loss of the ability to shift the box around in case you need to get to something underneath or on the side. In my case I used spray foam to separate the cabin which I may not be able to remove entirely, but it's an older car that will be useless after I'm done with it anyway. If you do not get a complete seal you will experience cancellation so it is important that you seal it entirely if SPL is your goal (though I would consider this for SQ as well).
Facing rear = easy, less time consuming, decent results
Facing forward = Pain in the ass, great results.
It's up to you.
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I had this problem pretty bad a while back, turned out to be a leak in the seal of my back window. As others have stated you should start looking for a leaky seal, or other point of access for moisture.
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It's sad to see such a great company go, but good luck on your future endeavors!
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I used to own a 12" lethal injection and it didn't "hit the lows" until I put it in a ported enclosure. If you can find the room to port those subs, they will come alive on the lows.
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Louder and louder!
Enjoyed his build, good to see he is still improving!!
Thanks! looking forward to finishing this build when I have the time and money. I hope to make it look clean and sound even better. Front stage needs some tweaking, I need a processor, and electrical.
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just to make sure... before disconnecting any power/ground wires, I should disconnect the RCAs first.... ???
Yes. I always unplug them and tape the ends so there is no chance of screwing it up again.
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If you determine it is the pico fuse in the head unit, it can be fixed by soldering a wire over the pico fuse's contacts or by grounding the rca's.
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Lol I did the exact same thing a couple weeks ago, works well in a pinch.
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I do! lol, yeah there aren't very many of us up here. EXOcontralto lives up here, but he's not on this forum.
Planning on going to any events? I found 3 so far this year.
I might go to the one in sanford if I can find a job lol. I won't be competing, just lookin around. I might compete next year if I can scrap up some cash to do my 2 18 build
Well I'll be at the sanford one competing for sure, so if you come make sure to stop by my Volvo for an Xcon demo! The sanford show is always a blast, so hopefully you can make it lol.
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Ill get these on the SSA store shortly for you guys...
Damn it!! Just bought some Polks....
You seem to have the worst timing when you buy things haha.
I'm excited to see some of these, my friend is going to buy a set or two.
Sorry for the off topic, but I had to say it.
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SSA FTW! I have NEVER dealt with a better company as far as customer service goes. That in itself would make me consider paying a little extra. SSA's subwoofers fill the gap between high SPL woofers and SQ woofers. I think the numbers that any of their woofers put up are quite impressive for the way they sound. I realize that there are other subwoofers that sound good and get loud, but I think Mark and Aaron put a lot of time testing both SPL and SQ of each of their woofers to make sure that they pass their own standards. This says a lot to me about how they run their company and it makes me want to keep coming back. They are very involved with their products, even though they may not design them.
I respect your opinion edub, but I can't seem to wrap my head around why you would come on to the company's forum and subsection just to bash a new woofer you have no experience with. I hope you find what you are looking for somewhere else.
Looking forward to the release of the Zcon's, hope they don't suck me in lol.
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XS Power, when size does matter
XS Power, excess power for any application.
XS Power, the ultimate source of power.
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Damn volvos falling apart. Good stuff man. I can't believe the flex your vehicle is going through.
Yeah me too. And I believe the volvo is built much more rigid then most american and japanese cars. The roof already is pretty stiff, hitting it with a fist makes a thump. I can hit my mothers mazda 6 and it flexes inward and sounds like a tin can when it rains.
For sure, I've noticed the rear view mirror is pretty stiff and isn't AS affected by the bass as other people. Most of the body panels are pretty stiff like you said, I couldn't believe how much flex (in a bad way) my friend was getting from some pretty crappy subs.
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Damn! lol, I'm happy I put that closed cell foam in my overhead light or I bet I would be in the same boat lol. If you haven't thought of it already, if you take down the overhead light and stuff it with closed cell foam it will stop it from rattling completely and hopefully prevent further damage.
Glad to see you are happy with the results!
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Happy birthday Don!
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hello hop!
"Don't you ever pucking tailgate!"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzgmAgzpldU
back to studying, finals week fml
Thanks for this, it made my day lol. Good luck on finals! I just finished mine.
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I guess the clip indicator on certain amps would work in a similar manner!
Not quite. Those probably work by simply lighting up the light when the output voltage reaches a certain level, not actually measuring the signal for clipping.
umm i c! so would they be a bit less accurate then?
Correct, the amp clip light is much more inexact. It does not actually "look" at the wave form. The harmonic distortion analyzer examines the magnitude of the different harmonics. Knowing the amplitude of each harmonic can give you a general idea of what the waveform looks like that is creating them do to known Fourier series. It's more like a handheld FFT (for audio) than an O-scope. Sinusoids do not have harmonics, but square waves (and all other forms) do.
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For overall loudness I would do 2 SA 12's, but for loud SQ 1 12" Xcon ported would sound pretty good. What are your goals?
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Power Runs and Big 3
in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Posted
No, I should have explained this better. I have a front battery with the stock connections. I have a battery in the rear with 1/0 run on both the positive and ground runs to the front.