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Very nice setup
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Those look really nice.
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Anyone know anything about these D4S amps? They look fucking awesome!
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LOVE the enclosure! How are you running the mids (power and bandwidth)?
- Last week
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How do I add a picture to my profile..lol I cant figure it out
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Help with custom sub enclosure (Dual Sa-12 Ported)
Benzelite124 replied to Benzelite124's topic in General Audio
Anyone have any designs for dual sa-12s with a center port? -
Welcome
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Welcome to SSA! What upgrades have y'all done or have in the plans? Is a build log section on here too. Would love to see a full build. Cheers!
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PRV AUDIO Vocal Speakers.... This may not make sense initially, but a high-quality speaker will have less bandwidth than a lower quality speaker... (for the most part) Just like a 3- or 4-way system is always better than a 1- or 2-way system. The narrower the bandwidth the speaker must play the cleaner it will sound. This will also keep you from asking the speaker to play up to its upper and lower frequency limits which are where it starts to sound "forced" to play those frequencies Pro Audio speakers are nothing new to car audio, but I see consumers not really knowing how to properly use them and having some issues which is understandable. These are totally different than your standard coaxial speaker If you look at the graph on the 6mr500ndy, which sounds amazing, you'll see that it can play from 90hz to 12,000hz... but if you narrow it down to what is plays "best" and more "naturally" it’s closer to 200hz to 10,000hz. Yes, it can play down to 50hz but not efficiently and not as well as 200 and up. Very low volume that would be fine but in what we do with the speaker you will want to cross it over closer to 200-300hz I get a lot of PMs asking if this speaker will pick up where my subs leave off? … around 60-80hz. I say no but the specs say "yes”. 99-13k so that may be a little confusing if you don’t look at the graph and understand what information it has in it So, for someone interested in using this speaker as a voice speaker, which I HIGHLY recommend, you will also need a "midbass" speaker to go with it such as a 10mb800 or 10mb500 or 8mb450. This leads me to another piece of information. PRV model numbers have an "MR”, “MB", "SW" or "W" in between the size of the driver and wattage of the individual speaker. MR=midrange MB=midbass W=woofer SW=subwoofer This is a general guideline for what the speaker is geared towards. That doesn’t mean an 8mb450 can’t be used for midrange or and 8mr400 can’t be used for midbass. That is where the graph and interpretation of the graph comes into play There is a lot more that goes into designing your front stage or your "voice" speakers that one of these days I’ll try and have a more in depth write up. The possibilities are endless...
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Until I find someone who can customize my doors when I'm ready to add the Eric Stevens MB8s, I ordered some 6.5”s. These Faital Pro 6PR160s are just beautiful and made with quality parts. The build quality is immaculate
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I’m Patrick in Charleston SC. New to forum and happy to be a part of and contribute. I’m old school by nature (class of ‘99 HS) and recently bought my stepson his first ride (2012 Grand Cherokee Laredo) and have been upgrading his stereo together recently for fun. Look forward to contributing as much as possible.
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patrickstewart8151 joined the community
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Bappy joined the community
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About ready to start measuring, finally. Wanted to this weekend but didn't have the free time I thought I would. Just got them to this point a few minutes ago. Must say I really like the look of the rear mount with roundover on the wideband. Wish I would've swapped the port on the right speaker so the port was on the outside on both. Not that it matters acoustically. It's purely cosmetic. Just would've been nice to have the forethought to plan that look better.
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Sub wire is mounted to the top of the inside of the enclosure for a cleaner look, I also moved the jumper wires around so they won't be visible in the Plexi Glass window. Sub is wired up and screwed down.
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Sub not wired or screwed down but I had to tease myself some.
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I used the drill battery to run the LEDs to see what they can do. 20210908_235534.mp4
- Earlier
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Help with custom sub enclosure (Dual Sa-12 Ported)
Benzelite124 replied to Benzelite124's topic in General Audio
bump -
I was thinking about something the other day.... would love to hear some feedback A comparison of abuse each individual component takes in your typical car audio system, (10,000 watts of power for example) SUBWOOFERS- Typically, a pair of 2500–3000-watt subs on a 10k or 10k worth of power, so real close to double its rated capacity (People blow subs daily, and recon all the time, and never say a word about the product, or quality of product. They just accept its part of the game and move on) $500 sub, $150 recon kit, EVERY time it blows. That gets expensive really quick, but still, nobody cares, they actually seem happy and proud they launched coils all the way onto the dashboard AMPLIFIERS- Usually ran at 1/2Ω, so DOUBLE its rated load also Sometimes 18 volts AND down to 1/4Ω, so at least 4-5 times its rated capacity easy BATTERIES- I have yet to see a system without enough batter power. People usually go overboard by 125-150% minimum ALTERNATORS- 320 amps is probably the most common amperage. 10K pulls between 900 and 1200 amps depending on its configuration. That's 3-4 times the alts rated capacity, ... unless you have duals on your 10k of power, then it’s still double the alts capacity Alternator goes out, drops two tenths of a volt under load, gets a little hot, takes out a rectifier or regulator and everyone loses their mind. They make a post at the next red-light, post pictures, get all upset, send their alt to someone else to repair thinking they will do a better job and talk about it for the next 18 months Most abuse repairs are $75, half the price of a recon that you so happily buy once a week So, to recap... Subs ran at double their rated power, nobody cares when they blow, they buy "so and so" soft parts. Amps ran at double their rated specifications; nobody cares when they blow up. They care more than subs, but still, they call an Amp-medic or whomever and get it fixed with very minimal complaining Batteries ran at below ratings usually so very rare for a battery to go bad, unless you are running voltage too high, which nobody does right? lol Alternators expected to power 3-4 times their capacity AND maintain a bank of batteries at the same time and when they end up burning up an alt, they go crazy Order of level of typical abuse... In my observations anyway. 1- Alternator. (Most heavily abused) 2- Amplifiers. 3- Subwoofers. 4- Batteries. I don’t get it..why is it someone would be more upset that the most abused component fails?
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Expert Electronics joined the community
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I need to wash and wax the RX8. I need to sell it too.
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Help with custom sub enclosure (Dual Sa-12 Ported)
Benzelite124 replied to Benzelite124's topic in General Audio
Thank you, I have sound deadened everything in the car other than the roof and have eliminated a great amount of rattles, the trunk could use a little more but, bass is louder in cabin than outside. Alternator has been upgraded from 90 to 143 amps. Big 3 upgrade was done. Stock battery, Voltage holds around 14.2 and drops to 12.6 on most aggressive hits and full power load, three amps being powered and ac and headlights running. I am planning on getting the sundown sa-12 classics from yard sale. My current budget is about $300 for subs, less than $60 on custom made box, and about $200 for the amp(sia-1750d) that I am going to buy from yard sale when I upgrade to 0 gauge ofc. So budget is about $600 and I want to completely destroy my previous setup on the high end and get a little low end, and for such a low price I think the sa-12s might do that, last thing I need is help designing the box, I was going to do aero ports, but found out to get about 60" port volume the might not fit in the box. I have no space on the sides for ports and last box I built had very little output when I did that, I want to either do a slot port or aero in the center, I want the box to be 37.5" wide, 17.6" tall, and depth should be under like 25" no matter what. Box should be 35-36hz and 4.5 cubes, I will use 45s and any suggestions. This system will way even more than my current one so I will probably remove the space tire so I don't notice it lol. -
Help with custom sub enclosure (Dual Sa-12 Ported)
Aaron Clinton replied to Benzelite124's topic in General Audio
Nice car. Do you have a set budget? Have you done any sound deadening or electrical system upgrades? Sounds like cone area is the first step. -
Hello guys I have a 1995 Mercedes E320 Sedan, and have been figuring out what I should upgrade my amazing skar evl-12 in a 34hz ported box with and I think the best bang for buck option that will make a noticeable difference is the sundown sa classic series from yardsale. I will be powering it with the same amp that I use on my skar(a sundown sfb-1500d), I know they can handle more the 1700w rms but my electrical system will be overdriven if I keep upgrading amps, I think I will put 2 sa classic-12s in a 4.5 cubic ft box tuned to 35hz slightly bigger than the manufacture recommends. I might potentially upgrade to the sia 1750d with 1/0 guage ofc wire in the future. I don't mind an aero port or a slot port, I just want it to be in the center, I want it to be as effective and don't really care about noise as long as it has good output. If you have any suggestions so I can get more out of that power or just something that impress me more than my current setup for not too much more please suggest. I listen to mostly rap and hip hop, and think 32hz is too low for me, 35-36hz is ideal. My max trunk dimensions are 37.5" wide, 17.6" tall, and depth can be whatever. Thank you!
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Benzelite124 joined the community
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Playing with the LEDs while I get the wires attached to the enclosure and holes sealed up.
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Close up on the Plexi window and the LED strip.
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Some daytime shots
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Thanks Aaron I appreciate that.
