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- Today
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Tang Band W4-1658SB 4" Midwoofer, what do you think?
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I'm ok with that : Midbass under the fr seats and killer 4" in doors, with my SSA tweeters. I don't want to go cheap, but if I can get cheaper 4" than those Focal or Audiofrog it would be good ! I already have a 4x60 w Incriminator amp and a 2x50w Zapco amp. I might get an Audison bit one to tune everything, unless I find something like a miniDSP.
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BMW is using them as midbasses, you might as well too. Personally I'd pull fresh wires so you can easily go back to stock but that frees up the range on the mids to not need midbass which would be helpful. Would allow you to focus on a 4 that has a killer midrange but not worry about trying to reproduce midbass. Would need an 6+1 channel processor and amplification. The Tang in the pic above ought to be able to get down around 200hz in the doors. Mark audio makes a great 4 as well. Lots of other options that I haven't listened to as well. A set of those, a processor and amplification and you would have a three way that should have reasonable midbass and a killer midrange. There are some tuning and staging fun with the underseat, but if you don't want to cut up your doors this is probably the easiest solution.
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I don't know if I should use them at all. I was planning a simple 2 way + sub. That 4" is annoying. If a pair of midbass under the seat can work, why not ? That would be my first 3way+sub system. What should I look for ? I'm ok to make some compromise, but no, I cannot keep the stock system. No way !
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I love my Tangband W4's. I am running them full range on axis though.
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Are you going to use the under seat 8's as midbass? If not, I'd just run the stock system. No way a 4 will work for you unless you are willing to throw all stage to the rear.
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Luck. I was using Google for some stereo research and happened by the forum.
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The Focal kit is a 2 way : mids and tweeters. I will have to find a spot for the tweeters. The car only have 4" coaxial speakers in each door, and 2 8" subs under the front seats. I don't want to do modifications on this car. I know 4" will be hard to work with, but I'm not going for competition. I just want something clear. People tells me to look at Audiofrog 4" ones. I don't know.
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In search of this retaining clip - w/ picture
jcarter1885 replied to bradleyheathhays's topic in Off Topic
The junkyard from another Ford if possible. -
Pnoid joined the community
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Is it a 3 way? There has to be something larger than a 4" in that car. Going to be really hard to make something with 4's being the midbass...
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My mom has an '02 Ford Taurus that I installed a Metra dash panel radio conversion kit in so I could install the stereo deck she wanted. Because of the configuration of the dash panels you can't install your own radio unless you install something like this conversion kit first. The kit provided a new front panel but asked you to remove the panel retaining clips from the old panel and use it on the new installation. Those are the internal retaining clips you de-lock when you insert the U shaped removal tools. The old clips got misshapen and one broke. So now I can't get the panel to stay in and am looking to replace the clip. Anyone know where to get a clip that looks like this...
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bradleyheathhays joined the community
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BruiserDaeffler changed their profile photo
- Yesterday
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TravisEdwardBoothroyd changed their profile photo
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Hi guys, I'm looking for a system for my X1. There's not much room in the doors, I can only fit a 4" mid, not too deep though. Some companies have direct fit in speakers for that car. I'm thinking about a Focal set (ES 100 K). Buuut I would love to keep my SSA Evil1 tweeters. What 4" mids would you use ? I will use an Incriminator 3.4 amp and 2 Gcons10" on 2K watts.
- Last week
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Haha I was running on a full night and day of no sleep and 16 hours of driving. It was perfect my friend. Good times, good times!!
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Rodney MrReeps Speer changed their profile photo
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Evan Marrs changed their profile photo
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Adam Murphy changed their profile photo
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However, I found https://I_LOVE_SPAM very helpful when I was looking for the projector. It offers high end projector reviews with best advices in a special budget ranges.
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Start with the box. Master that. Then learn FEA. Start designing the structure to do what you need. Then source prototypes. Multiply your build cost by 10+. Otherwise just buy something. There is no benefit to sourcing all the components to build an off the shelf sub versus buying it. There is a SHITLOAD of benefit to designing a good box and crossover. If you are an engineer apply what you know here. This will be a MUCH better hobby. The speaker is the easy part as there are a TON of good ones out there. There are zero good crossovers and nearly no good boxes. Your idea to have fun in audio is good, but you should start by learning about the whole process which would be the implementation of the speaker versus the speaker itself. As for the manufacturers, they are primarily in Asia. Lots of manual work. If you want it done here as I said above, 10x the price if not more.
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Do you know the names of the contract manufacturers? I'm an engineer by trade, and I enjoy building things. Spending $500 to a build a $50 speaker is actually comparatively very cheap in the world of engineering (usually the barrier to entry is 10-100x that and many times you are left with nothing of value). Based on your figures, my goal would be something like this. $500 for speaker 1 (worth about $50) $500 for speaker 2 (worth about $100)....etc With the end goal of having some cool custom speakers that are on par with some of the decent products out there. This is meant to be a hobby while being stuck inside during Covid. Not a "how can I get the best speaker for the money proposition".
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Agreed completey. Just wish I would have been myself. The past few weeks have sapped me so bad. I should have brought a tent...that would have helped as I could have relaxed better. Driving the big ugly home in doctored state isn't a good idea.
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Probably. I love mine. Grinder of that quality new starts above $700.
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Two choices. Source each part separately or source them all from one source. The first is cheaper IF you are buying 1000 at a time. Units of 1 are not how any contract manufacturer is setup. If you follow the path of 1 without a true design you will end up with $500 into something that gets out performed by a $50 CL special. if you follow option 2 you will end up with a copy of a driver that is already on the market for more money than buying it. Again - if you have zero engineering capability the whole idea is way premature. Develop that first. If you read Vance Dickason's book and don't understand it what you propose to do is a horrible waste of time and money. I do shit like this for a living, but the only way I'd put effort into doing a design is if I were going to market it. I can EASILY find drivers on the market that do what I need.
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Thanks for the reply. I'm looking at this 100% as a hobby. I don't expect the outcome to be a cheaper and/or better version of what is already available on the market. That being said, it's very difficult to design anything without knowing what is possible from a manufacturing perspective. I guess a better wording of the question would be something like this. "Stereo Integrity is looking to come out with a new line of subwoofers. They know all the specs of what they want to build, how do they acquire all the pieces? Is there 1 manufacturer that companies like them work with that can manufacturer any basket/voice coil/motor...etc combination? Or are there separate vendors for each part that people use? I assume who Stereo Integrity uses isn't the same as other companies on here (maybe that's wrong) that have their own line of subwoofers. So what other companies can manufacturer these parts?" I know 15 years ago RE had a parent company (believe the name was Destijl) who would be the go to. Trying to figure out the equivalent(s) in todays world. And I've designed and built probably 50+ ported/sealed enclosures for various drivers over the past 15 or so years.
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Goals and design are where you start. If your goals don't make what is on the market obsolete the it is a terrible idea. Slapping together random parts will net you a driver that is super expensive for crappy performance. That being said if you are looking to improve on an available driver for a reason and understand mathematically how to resolve that concern then by all means. I can assume you have no idea though since you asked the question. If my assumption is wrong I apologize. Here is another hint. If you can't design a box by hand with paper and pencil and calculate port tuning, port velocity and such. The endevour you are pursuing is WAY over your head. Start with the box always!
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I’ve been like that a lot lately. Don’t even realize I need to bitch until I open my mouth and it just pours out.
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Glad to hear you guys had a blast. Jared hit me up to tell me he was up your way. Someday I'll make the trek myself. J
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glad to have you here man
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Michael Bradshaw changed their profile photo
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I've been doing some research online, and I know a handful of people who manufacture and sell subwoofers frequent this forum. So was hoping I could get some info on good ways to approach building my own custom subwoofer. My goal: Purchase all the individual components of a subwoofer (motor, basket, voice coil, cone...etc) and build something nobody else has. My issue: Other than a few sites selling certain parts, or trying to pickup blown subs/recone kits, I can't find a reliable source for buying the individual pieces. This makes it very difficult to piece together multiple subs that are the same. Does anyone know of good places to pickup parts? I know places like FI have their own CNC machines and build things in house, but where do people pickup parts who don't build them in house? I know there used to be subwooferparts.com, but I believe they are out of business now. Any info or guidance would be much appreciated.
