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  2. Already have everything else I need. New HU, 4 ch amp, speakers, sound deadening, baffle kit, DSP, all new wiring. Now I just need something that doesn't take up any use able room to fill out the lower frequencies. Hence the reason I asked about this Pioneer in comparison to an under-seat sub.
  3. And for the record. If the amplifiers are wired directly to the battery and one has done the big three, the factory “battery current sensor” is bypassed. So the ECM does not recognize the amplifiers voltage draw through the “battery current sensor”.
  4. ///M5

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    Ended the day going to a baseball game. Won the championship! Memories for the boys
  5. My money is on the ECM. I had a Honda from that era that did the same thing. I validated through research that it was infact a “fuel economy mode” in the ECM. That did not necessarily correspond with speed or voltage load. Mine would usually do it after I got off the interstate. It is completely normal and I would not stress over it. Mostly because there’s nothing you can do about it. What/where do you have the voltage gauge wired up to?
  6. j-roadtatts

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    Your own private amusement park! Anywhere that uses Snoopy as a mascot I would endorse.
  7. Yesterday
  8. ///M5

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    My wives company reserved all of valley Fair today. Crazy to be here with no lines.
  9. Depends on what all else you have. $180 buys a lot of great install goodies.
  10. j-roadtatts

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    He and the VP both have visited Aspen at different times this year. Makes a nice mess of things.
  11. j-roadtatts

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    Brightening lives and making the world a better place, by smashing one pussy at a time!
  12. $178 in Honda Fit. I already have C5 component so what do you suggest to reap me way better rewards?
  13. MKader17

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    Man, this week was the worst week I've had at work since fully transferring to my new position. Even so, it still was better than many of the normal weeks I had in my last position.
  14. A valid idea, but I’ve never felt anything out of the ordinary whatsoever in my steering.. I’ve driven without or with a bad pump on previous vehicles before. The issue also happens when coming to a stop in a straight line as well though.. From what I’ve been reading, I am starting to think it has more to do with the alt Control settings that are in the PCM... but I’m not sure how I can address that
  15. Travis

    Ssa evil 6.5's

    Thanks Aaron. Cost I'm not so much worried about. Any recommendations on a nice component set ?
  16. I'm going to bet it a power steering issue causing strain on the pump which causes excessive parasitic drag. This could cause belt slippage, or tensioner issues which means the alt struggles while turning. Come out of the turn, no more excessive load, all good.
  17. jcarter1885

    Box build for f150 fx2 sport

    You will need to give the maximum dimensions of the space you want to use for this enclosure if you need help making getting a design or any help.
  18. Same money on upping the midbass ante will reap you way better rewards.
  19. Last week
  20. Lol what? What did that have to do with physics? I said I could not find the correct woofers with the right depth and T/S parameters to build a similar setup that would be as efficient with a low power amp. Where a company like Pioneer can actually design their own speakers for a specific design in mind. Plus the materials to construct a solid structure on top of the nearest 6.5" shallow put me at over 6 inches thick and about 98 spl @ 1 watt according to bassbox pro. Again that's just using a ported box. Now maybe if I could design a similar rear horn but even then it'll be no different and probably cost just as much. Dude it's two 6.5 inch woofers on 100 watts. What kind of expectations do you have in mind? This isn't about pounding 40 hz into a heart attack.
  21. Aaron Clinton

    Ssa evil 6.5's

    We carry plenty of co-ax and components, or if you want to go with an amp, we have plenty of affordable small 4 channels and amp kits available. :)
  22. Alright, so I've done some searching and can't find any posts similar to what I'm dealing with. The closest I can find on google is something referring to the battery current sensor. Aparrently its only on 2005+ Tahoes though, but it senses draw and adjusts alternator charging output accordingly. Mine is a 2000, and when I went through my Big 3, I saw no such sensor as expected. The issue I'm having is a lot more noticeable now that I have a Stinger volt gauge in the dash (Installed same time as new HO Alt, 9/11/19) When I start up, I'm at around 14-14.3v.. after warmed up, 13.9v is consistent. Now... I've notice multiple times that when I am coming to a stop, or slowing down to make a turn, I see a large drop to high 11's to mid 12's.. but straight back up again to 13.9v after fully stopped or out of the turn I was making. Happens regardless of draw (Lights on/off, heat/ac on/off, volume high/low) I would like to assume this has something to do with my main battery, seeing as how its a standard wet cell and has some age to it. I plan on swapping for an NSB34/78 in the near future when the wallet isn't empty. I just want to make sure I'm not missing something stupid or something that could be addressed in the mean time until I get a new cell up front. Also for the record, while sitting still at idle, or at cruising speed, full tilt on the music yields less than .1v drop if any, no dimming either. 2000 Tahoe 5.3 Big 3 (4 soon) in 2/0 255a Alt Standard Group 34 wet batt Not sure what other info is needed, but I can get as specific as you need... Any ideas?
  23. So Pioneer is defying the laws of Physics? More aptly they are marketing things inappropriately to convince uneducated buyers that what they are offering is logical. It isn't. For where it will do well you don't need a big enclosure in the back of your car. You are trying hard to hope it will work, it won't. The average buyer on Amazon is already more brainwashed into happiness because they spent money than you are shopping. If you knew the education and history of those reviewers you'd scoff as well. If a real response is important to you, spend it on setting up your midbass well and you will be way ahead of that nonsense.
  24. It's also 33 inches long and 12 inches wide and is a Horn, not a ported enclosure. But the reason why I can't build such an enclosure because none of them will be near this efficient. Using a port or PR with an 86 db @1 watt woofer for a less than 200 watt amp will still cost me about as much to build and I'll have issues with Vent velocity and Group Delay is way too high and that's at these same dimensions. I already tried to simulate it and I certainly can't design a horn enclosure with BB Pro anyway nor am I that skilled at such. Then I had the problem of finding a shallow 6.5" woofer with high sensitivity so that I could use it for a low power amp along with the other T/S specs that will work for a similar sized ported box is another matter and having a final design where I achieve 110 db's in car sensitivity is unlikely unless I just go with some 500 watts of power and a sealed box but remember I drive a Honda with a 96 Amp Alt and a lawnmower battery. Where a company like Pioneer can actually design their own speakers for a specific design in mind and use dense resin wood materials and testing that would be more expensive and time consuming for me providing I can even find it in a store. Plus I assume they have experts that can design a higher efficient horn loaded enclosure and they do have Andrew Jones on staff so that amounts to something of their expertise vs mine. Besides I don't know who you think I am but I'm no basshead. I don't need to thump or flex panels I just want to fill out the frequency range that the components in my doors aren't very good at and figured this can't be worse. All I know is that it has excellent reviews on Amazon so it's worthwhile to some and I'm probably the type that's one of them since I don't care that much about audio while driving down the road. However your suggestion of designing "Monster" mid-bass in a Honda fit made me laugh though. I have JL Audio C5's and sound deadner and that's about as Monster as any mid-bass is likely to get in the doors of a Honda.
  25. ///M5

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    I know a few good photographers
  26. I'd still run. If you can't build or design an enclosure that works not sure why you expect that this one will. It won't. 4" thick tells a story. No way there is enough volume there to make it worth while. I would instead put the funds into monster midbasses and forego a sub if that were the only choice.
  27. Yeah it's probably no Cornu CS but follows the rear horn loaded concept all the same. Can't be worse than an 8 inch sub inside a . 0.094 ft3 sealed box under the seat. The only physical attraction to this particular one is that it's thin and you can put stuff on top of it without losing any real actual floor space. Everything else I looked at or even calculated in Bass Box Pro will be too thick to be very useful for loading stuff in and out of my trunk. Now I used to have a Sundown setup that I built myself and my attempt there was to create my own custom method of quick removal. The idea was that if I needed to use the trunk I could just pull a plug and set the box in my garage then put it back later. So I used a 220 volt Male/Femal plug that accepted 4 guage wire and used that as my quick release plug along with quick release pins holding the box down and an MTX Elite amplifier built inside the box. I even added handles to the sides however the damn thing was so heavy that pulling it out required me to do some stretching and pump some weights first to psych myself out for what was practically a max deadlift competition. So I pitched that. I then tried desiging the thinnest enclosure I could out of BB Pro but it was still 6 inches thick with the wood and even 1/2" birch wasn't going to make enough difference. So then I just got a Bazooka tube and actually was really happy with it. It sounds pretty damn good for $99 but I can't stack anything on it and have to be somewhat careful when lugging in the kids sports junk or a stroller or the wife's crap....you get what I mean. But this Pioneer is under 4 inches thick and broad enough that laying stuff on it won't be an issue since that's what it's designed for. I worry any 8" inch under-seat sub directly under my seat will sound too muddy. I'm sure that the design and marketing of this system was directly intended for us middle aged mom's and dad's out there that no longer put audio first.
  28. Travis

    Ssa evil 6.5's

    My fault it's still early. I'm almost positive there is no crossover in the head unit. I may need to do an amp if I go this route. I'm almost burnt out of car audio anymore. Between the time, effort, and money.. I've got a small stockpile built up for myself, but still need more. I may just have to pick up some normal 6.5's and save a big headache
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