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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/12/2017 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Adding a second battery in the rear.
  2. 4 points
    You might say I am a little biased.
  3. 4 points
    Box is pretty much done.....waiting on the woofer!
  4. 4 points
    Easiest pods I have ever built. lol
  5. 4 points
    It just keeps sounding betters and betters. Heres a pic of the ride. Have owned it since brand new. Was the wife's first new car, and I adopted it once I bought her a new car a couple years ago. I wasn't complaining as the noise floor is fairly low and has lots of room for equipment!
  6. 4 points
    Adding a third amp and the DSP.
  7. 3 points
    The Fi should be here Tuesday! Once I build the box (when I actually decide on a final design) I'll put everything in the Build Log section.
  8. 3 points
    I would contact ID and ask them what frequency they cross the tweeters over at in the passive network. That way you’ll know exactly what your target frequency for it would be to get in the middle of the ballpark for running active, no guessing involved. The Fi N.7 has fantastic specifications and should sound great. I can’t wait to play with a set in person. The SSA Evil 6.5” mid sounds very good and is a great bargain at the price they ask for them. My set made me very happy while my brother in law was demoing them in his car. I’m really looking forward to the opportunity to finally get them installed in mine. The mids will be the toughest decision simply because you can’t just listen to them all somewhere. To make the decision even harder (lol) I suggest taking a look through the lists of drivers available at Parts Express and Madisound. The raw drivers at those stores are a great place to start if you were interested in going that route. I know exactly what you are referring to on the sound of your old mids. As much as I love my Fi and SSA equipment I have to say that one of the best drivers I’ve heard that fits that description to a “T” is the Peerless HDS 830875. I gave a set I bought used to my brother in law for his build and after we got everything installed and tuned I wish I had kept them!! Super smooth, warm response that brought out the finest details with ease. They should definitely be on your list of equipment to consider. Your assumption on the difference between regular woofers/mids and the PA drivers is pretty well spot on. While PA speakers “CAN” sound good very very few will right out of the box and even with a great EQ at your disposal the vast majority of them will excel at getting loud and still never sound that good. Most need an enclosure, a ported one even better, to get remotely usable midbass and without that a warmer response will be difficult to obtain J is right though, you can always save up and buy the different parts of your equipment as you can and piece it together. I’m in the middle of doing so for my Grand Prix right now. I had the Evil mids, got the Evil tweeters a few months ago, a pair of SSA F8L 8” subs a little over a month ago, just picked up a pair of SSA IC150.4 amps a couple of weeks ago and got my JL TWK88 DSP last week. I’m working my way towards getting the IC2200.1 and while right now I have a pair of SSA DCON subs as well to help complete an all SSA system I have been piecing this together for awhile now. The crossovers and such you’re looking at are okay but I’m very honestly saying that they’re a waste in comparison to any decent DSP. The plethora of settings available in just one controller is mind blowing and kinda addictive, lol. Multiple bands, up to 31 bands of graphic and/or parametric EQ per each channel. Crossovers that can be set to any frequency(ies) you want, high pass, low pass and bandpass, from -6dB to -48dB slopes per channel, and oftentimes selectable between linkwitz-Riley, Butterworth, etc curves. Time alignment, individual channel gain controls, phase switching, and more all can be found available in the decent DSP’s available today. They’re an investment that you can use for years to come in any build you end up doing. The miniDSP is very budget friendly and very powerful for the price. The only thing people see as a drawback is the limited 2V RCA outputs, which if those folks were in the know doesn’t mean anything. No one minds you making long posts. Trust me it’s a welcome sight to the sore eyes around here and the typical, “I just wanna bang as loud as I can so which one is better, sub X or sub Y?” lol That’s not the norm for around here but we don’t seldom see posts with questions with quite this much information. It’s refreshing in my honest opinion so keep it up!
  9. 3 points
    Box is finally done....
  10. 3 points
    Those with a chev, know the way the dash/gauges get when you lean on your loud stuff. Needles go everywhere, lights all come on. Annoying. Cant see RPM revs for competing, or anything. Picked up a OBD2 wifi unit. pucker was 11 bucks. Loaded the free software, and bobs your uncle. Gonna glass the tablet into the new console that is going in. Unit is a Panlong. There are several. I just nabbed this one. Works tits. Reacts fast, has everything. Rpm, oil pressure, speed, everything on the dash, and, fuck, shows codes and error shit even. Easy peasy, japanesey ..... quicky vid, right as we got it running.....
  11. 3 points
    I got the pods installed yesterday! But was waiting on one last piece in the mail, to install the tweeters.
  12. 3 points
    Sold the car to friend for $500, with 250k on the clock. Sold the BTL on eBay. I have fond memory's and miss both of them. lol
  13. 3 points
    Ok so I had some down time these last few months on this project due to construction going on around my house and not having the usual space to work in. Sucks tho cause now its gonna be cold and rainy but I wanna get this done bad! I just pulled the trigger tonight on all the goodies. Besides the new alt/batt if needed and wire etc, I will have everything I need to finish this build. Time to get crackin! Sub- SSA Xcon 15" Sub amp- SoundQubed 2200D Mids/Highs amp- NVX JAD800.4 Mids- SSA Evil 6.5" Tweets- SSA Evil 1"
  14. 3 points
    Well its gone from the store now. I had my eye on the demo model that was D1. I always wanna go big but I'm gonna keep it to 2k watts instead of 5k. I think the 15" Xcon will fit the power and needs quite nicely.
  15. 3 points
  16. 3 points
    You're on the right track, just know the final X over points will be based more on what sounds good and blends best once installed. Getting the vocals to sound good is usually a big part of the equation, as it's like getting four people to all talk coherently all at once. One more reason not to have rears, as then it's six people all talking at once. If everything isn't dialed to blend just right (or close lol) you will get distractive distortion/ cancellation at the crossover point. The explanation in the post above was just to give you a bearing on speaker selection. Not a guideline on setting points. With that said, 1500 is pretty low for a tweeter, and you will get waaaay more output from the 6.5" mid in that range. I think my mids are at 2500, and tweets at 3200. The mids would play way higher (and still sound good) but they have a breakup node at 4K. Without individual eq for each speaker it's a no go for me. I'm not positive, but think your hu may have eq for each individual channel. Put it this way, the mid is the workhorse. The tweets are just there to give a little sparkle on top. (The top couple octaves) Same with the sub, it's just there to fill the very bottom octave. Think how many octaves that leaves the mid playing.
  17. 2 points
    Four channel amp: http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/ssa-ic150-4-600w-4-channel-amplifier.html
  18. 2 points
    My $.02... Don't waste any money on rear fill, with a properly set up front stage it'll only muck things up. Alpine amps are great, so are Rockford Fosgate amps. This is a car audio forum and many seek to try the smaller, less commercial equipment, but mainstream companies can and do put out some good stuff, especially amps. All the PRV mids you listed are 'pro audio" drivers. Their purpose is to get LOUD with relatively little power. The compromise they make to achieve this is limited frequency response. Pro Audio drivers typically lack midbass and unless you cross your subwoofers off at 120hz, you'll have very noticeable gaps in the frequencies covered. To go active you'll need to bandpass your midrange drivers, i.e. lowpass and highpass. There are a few amps that can do this, as well as a few head units, but your best bet is to get a sound processor. Many guys on this site use the mini-DSP which is full function and very affordable. I don't have a PC and really wanted to make adjustments easily so I went with a Stetsom STX-2436 because it was $200, tiny (I have a Jeep Wrangler with very limited space), and a bluetooth app that controls the unit. This was my first active system (previously I was a component guy) and I went with SSA Evil tweets and Evil mids. I'm still making adjustments, but I'm very happy I went the active route.
  19. 2 points
    Finally got the Fiat on the road for 40-50 miles today. First time in about 15 years it's been on the road.
  20. 2 points
    That's a tough one to answer in regards to frequency response, with as little time and tuning as I have had with the HDS's. The HDS is made to eat a LOT of power and just as sensitive as the Evil. I Also doubled up the power at the same time of switching. The Evil's are smoother sounding and more forgiving right out of the box, without being dull at all. They handled 100 watts and being crossed as low as 1400hz no problem. With all that said, the HDS is just getting started output wise and can produce very dynamic peaks on the power available. The sound is almost holographic and definitely realistic. To give the Evil's fair credit, I don't feel they where aimed ideally.
  21. 2 points
    I was really wanting an adjustable mount. After searching high and low for ideas I found these. They are "Ram" brand mounts. They have a ton of different end plates and arms. I bought these used on eBay and the are for a fish finder.
  22. 2 points
    And the H800 is officially hooked up and running!!!!!! About my only complaint with the H700 I have is a loose plug, so I heat srunk the 800 plug. Though it was cool it displays voltage.
  23. 2 points
    Everything needed was in the mail when I got home!! So hopefully the HDS tweeters will be in and playing today!!
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    Incriminator Audio 40.1 amplifier 4800wrms at 1-ohm used and in great condition $900 shipped specs can be found here: http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/incriminator-audio-ia40-1-4800w-rms-amplifier-w-splitforce-technology.html
  26. 2 points
    I'm running the same setup except for an 10" XCON and a RF tT1500bdcp!
  27. 2 points
    It's really good for what it is. I would have greatly preferred to have an additional output channel so I can adjust my sub. The physical quality is decent, but it's nothing great. I love, love, love the fact that it's controlled by an app on my phone and that's the number one reason I chose this unit with a price of $199 being the second consideration. I would buy this again and recommend this for first timers and people on a budget, but with my next car audio build I will go for a unit that can process my sub as well. I guess I'll have to borrow a friend's PC (I don't have any friends with a PC so I'll have to make new friends ) and pay two or three times as much.
  28. 2 points
    Update: Installed not just the DSP, but replaced the JBL component system with SSA Evil tweets and mids so I can't do a direct comparison. Installation: very, very simple. Interior space is at a premium in Jeep Wranglers and this thing got stuck behind the dash using double sided automotive tape. The 2 input and 4 output RCAs are labeled by stickers (one fell off), I would have greatly appreciated color coded connections, but I was careful and didn't mix anything up. Tuning: the app is very intuitive on my iPhone SE, it even includes a demo mode so I got to play around with the large, easy to use menus while the DSP was being shipped from Brazil. Most settings are easy to adjust by either directly typing in the desired values or by pressing an up or down icon. My fingers are large and my phone is small but I have no issues fine tuning. Sound: No noise... that's a very good thing! Functionality: 13 bands in the graphic eq section with htz values at 25, 63, 160, 400, 1K, 2.5K, 6.3K, and 16K. You can set different values for all 4 output channels. There is one user assigned parametric eq frequency. The crossovers are probably the best part with different typology and slopes from 6 to 48 db. Very easy to set and tinker with. In addition there is delay and phase controls as well as an audio generator and battery voltage tool. Conclusions: I'm the ultimate neophyte with active crossovers and sound processors so everything is new and I lack the proper vocabulary, so in layman's terms...
  29. 2 points
    Back on tracks ! Waiting for more. SSA speakers all around. Good choice !
  30. 2 points
  31. 2 points
    Good to hear you are back at it... and it's GO time! Excellent choice on the speakers and tweets. They have great power response and flexibility for blending. They should fit your tastes very nicely. Have a set I've been enjoying the myself.
  32. 2 points
    If there was some evil neos made would they be called agent smith?
  33. 2 points
    Our very own Dr. Lindsey's YouTube channel kickoff video! Show her some support, and go to her YouTube channel and hit the subscribe button. #ArriveLoud http://www.SSAudio.com Dr.Lindsey_SSA YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWMBKrOufGKcvPeJLFaHG3A
  34. 2 points
  35. 2 points
    She has personality to spare. Neal can speak from experience, as she is always high-energy, always intense, and always caring.
  36. 2 points
    I finally found a non-permanent and adjustable mount for the HDS. I will use some 15lb rated Velcro to mount to the dash, and cover the base with the dash mat. As much as I have been enjoying the Evil tweet's, its time to get the next beasts in for some ear play!
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    Insanely great idea with those adjustable pods!! Looking good dude!
  39. 1 point
    Can't help with crossover points without knowing the drivers. That being said, rear fill is 1000% a waste of time and money. Add to that the PRV mids sound like serious ass in any 2 way. So we need to start with getting some actual logical choices then we can dial things in.
  40. 1 point
    Thought I’d share a few pics of the DCON’s I was originally running. The original subs we used in the Traverse after I got the rest of the system installed. They were originally ran on a Zapco Z-1KD but after a fateful incident with an open sunroof during a rain storm it had to be replaced. I had an Arc Audio XDi 2000 sitting in the closet and the only amp I had that remotely fit in the amp rack. The DCON’s were dual 4 ohm and wired to 1 ohm on the Zapco for a very reasonable 1,000 watts to the pair of 400wrms rated subs. I wasn’t too terribly keen on running them on the Arc 2k at that ohm load at first but since one was making a noise fresh out of the box I figured screw it and with one recone in hand and the knowledge of the fact I could order another if needed I threw caution to the wind and decided to see just how much abuse they could possibly take. So after that background story I present to you the first few pics of the results of that abuse. The coils are still in great looking shape. Which is mind blowing considering the power we didn’t hesitate to throw at them. At 2.5 times the rated power I expected to see them at least slightly darkened or something. The sealed enclosure seams failed worse on one side than the other so I included pics of the surround. The one that didn’t unload as severely has a very small area with the stretched to near breaking point you see in the pic. However the one that’s pictured has the damage all the way around and in a small area actually tore all the way through. I’m pretty sure that damage wouldn’t be present if the enclosure hadn’t have failed. I couldn’t find any damage at all to the spiders on either sub. I’ll add more pics to this when I go to recone them with the spiders, coils and all super exposed.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    I had a big reply typed out, but I decided to simplify. I will agree that back in the 60s and early seventies the engines were overbuilt. Performance was what sold cars, and they just had to build things differently back then. Nowadays, cost and efficiency are what matter. We see cast cranks, pistons, and powdered metal rods because they are cheaper and easier to manufacture. The manufactures build a small tolerance in them, but no more than they need to make it through the warranty. The only "affordable" stock engines to boost are small block Chevys and the latest GM small blocks, and the only reason they are affordable is because they are so plentiful. You can throw boost or juice at them with reckless abandon and just buy another one at virtually any junkyard for a few hundred dollars and be running again in a day.
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    That is fucking awesome!
  45. 1 point
    If its worth doing, its worth doing wrong. You don't learn from doing it right.
  46. 1 point
    I apologize, I should have shared already. Here are both emails I got from IA: " The recommended ported box specs are 2.5 – 3.5 cubes with 12 – 16 inches of port per cube. Let me know if you need anything else." "The recommended ported box specs are 2.5 - 3.5 cubes with 12 - 16 inches of port per cube. Yes, you can use a 6" aero port if you keep the box around 3 cubes. "
  47. 1 point
    I would avoid spending any money on the rears and instead focus on the fronts. Rears are pointless in a car.
  48. 1 point
    Of course, lol. They run on water too, lol
  49. 1 point
    I am pretty sure you will be the first TeamEvil's in Hawaii if you grab some.
  50. 1 point
    some great deals to be had! Incriminator Audio just added!
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