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Test fit on the tweets. I have to say these things are stout! Very well designed & assembled. I am very impressed by the build quality on these tweets.

Have to still add some filler for the imperfections before painting.

As the parent of a child with special needs, I assure you that had you said this in front of me you would have way less teeth. You may or may not beat my ass but regardless you would regret the garbage ever leaving your mouth. Think about what you say before you say it! You are a total disruption not only to this forum but as a human being as well. Good day sir!

Hello there! If you clicked this thread it is because you are considering making a thread asking about a box design! (Or you are wondering, what's this thread about?) Well I am here today to help you and make your box designing dreams become a reality! Follow these 4 easy steps to correctly pose the question "Is this a good design for a box?" By following these steps other members will be able to better assist you in your goals! STEP 1 (Research): Research! Hop on Google and find your manufactures recommendations for the enclosure. Go up in the search bar of this fine forum and search! You will be surprised to find that someone has probably already asked "How good is sub xxx tuned to 34 hz?" And whats awesome is if you do some snooping you can see if they made a build thread, and then find out how well their plan turned out! You can even PM the person and get their opinions on how it turned out! that's the best part of an online community. STEP 2 (Answer "The List"): Check out this cool list below! These are the type of questions that people are going to ask about your box design goals when you make a thread! So have them ready up front! Copy and paste this list to your new thread and fill in the blanks! If you are not sure on an answer simply put a question mark (" ? ") in that space! That way members will be able to provide the best answers for your questions! (See something I should add? PM Me please!) The list: Vehicle : Location in the vehicle: Space available (Length x Width x Height): Subwoofer make and model: Subwoofer Size: Number of Subwoofers: Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): What type of music do you like?: Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Tuning Freq (Hz): Volume : Questions: STEP 3 (Make a good thread title): Now that you have your list filled out go ahead and make a thread, but I strongly encourage you to put as much info about your design in the thread title. This is a VERY IMPORTANT step! By putting information about the thread you are making in the thread title someone will be able to much more easily search for your thread! And not only that more people are likely to respond to your thread as they will be like: "Oh an Fi BTL, I had one of those, I''m gonna help this dude out!" Here is my recommendation for a format of your thread title: Recommended Thread Title: Design Questions for : (Subwoofer Size) (Subwoofer Manufacturer) (Subwoofer Series) in (Cubic Volume) (@Tuning Freq) Enclosure Here is a sample using the above format: "Design Questions for 12" Fi BTL in 2.5 Cubic Ft @ 34 Hz Enclosure" Trust me, if you take the time to have a good thread title, it will attract much more interest and help! Again, if you don't know the freq you want to use or any other part of the tile just leave it out! For love of all that is holy DO NOT make a thread title "Box help" Thread titles like that are the devil! STEP 4 (Do more research!): As the answers start rolling in keep researching! There are plenty of useful tools out their for designing! Part of the fun of this whole hobby is learning how to do things! Then you can impress your friends and make boxes for others! LEARN LEARN LEARN! These videos are just a sample of what you can find on youtube that may help! I hope you enjoyed this thread! With these steps you are on your way to getting accurate answers to your questions from the members of this forum! And not only that you are bettering the forum by allowing information to be more easily found! Take care and stay loud!

Some recent photos at Slamology 2017 when we debuted the SSA IC150.4 and SSA IC2200.1 amplifiers. If you are wondering why Scottie Johnson of XS Power is holding the monoblock, that is because there is XS Flex OFC wire inside (see bright blue contrast to red board).

I haven't had the DSLR out too much in 2016. Hopefully 2017 will give me more time for that!

Had a blast. Was hot as shit, and errrryone got burnt to shit,... but, fun was had by all. Burb ran better than it ever has in every way. Did all events (Psyclone, DB drag (meh) and bass race 599) First in all. Scores where hurt bad on our 30s runs by the hole, but, it did a new high on the burp (meh) , even a few clicks down, ... we couldnt be happier with how its running. On our 30s runs, the engine ran great set at 2k rev....and didnt sound like it was gonna toss a rod out the block at the end. Couldnt be happier with how its all performing, such a good feeling after all the work. Thanks for the look, hope to meet/see some of you in the lanes some day. My favorite thing about it all. Get out, be safe, and just have a damn good time. Enjoy

Doing some custom tweeter pods for evil tweets for a guy that I work with. Evil 6.5's in the doors and evil tweets in the sail panels. Here's the before pics.

Thank you sir. I did, thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Appreciated Jared, hope all is well. Thanks Travis. Thank you sir. Thank you. Lindsey will want to come along and pick out. Thank you, I appreciate it. 'Tis a big number, thank you. That is what I tell myself. haha Thank you. Thanks, it was a fun night downtown.

First 3x is now 7 days away. The rear is looking great, best ever actually. Fun time is now amps and wiring a coming. (well probably have about 4 seconds of testing on it before the show, but meh,.... were really solid on points from finals last year, so, all shows will be "test/tune" time for us through out the season. Fug it.....

So,.. new season is upon us. Only change we are going to make is amplifiers and wire. The ampere's all sold, and new crossfire 4ks where chosen. They do 18v, stable at .5, all that shit. The SHCA wire is getting removed, and XS power cable is gonna get tossed in. Scottie has helped a ton with bats and the wire. Team XS ftw... anyway,... lets get this moving, and good luck to all that compete. Go have fun. LOL, port adjustments lol. Great looking boards imho. The fit and finish is legit, and there is some heft to them. I dig the look, fit, and finish. Gut shot Trip power and ground for a 4k ? hmmmmmmm Thanks for looking. And again, good luck to all this season. Hope to see you in the lanes

Thanks!!! Here is a few more.

Some pics of the Continental Divide I took last night! its the snowy ridge in the far distance for anyone that doesn't know what they are looking for. And to the left a little from the first one. And to the right from the first one. This ones not zoomed in, but is all three from above in one shot. These ones aren't part of the Divide, but still cool. (and massive) One zoomed in a little. This one is the right peak in the photo above, only from a different mountain top about 30 miles west. And these are the mountains behind the one above, taken from behind this mountain.

Loving my front stage! Been listening to Prince, Earth Wind & Fire & live recordings lately.

Greetings and salutations beings of the internet. I come bearing random thoughts ramblings and a build log. This will be version 3 of my 2004 suburban. The setup: Sony XAV-701HD Stevens Audio Full Size Horns Beyma 8BR40 8" Mids Arc PS8 Bazooka MGA series Amps Stereo Integrity DS4 18 sealed 6cuft This is also the simplest iteration. I employed the KISADUWDATTDT method: Keep It Simple And Don't Upgrade When Done And Tune The Damn Thing. Just a little FYI the horn install happened a few years ago. This a compilation of a build that spanned a few years. Up first are the horns. You've seen one you've seen them all but just in case here is a pic. I designed in CAD and had CNC plasma cut some brackets. I did a little prepping of the horn bodies before installing. Here is the passenger side mocked up in place. The final install. For those who can get enough pics here is a link to more: http://s1005.photobucket.com/user/onebadmonte32/slideshow/The rebuild/horn update Stay tuned for moar updates.

I've been building enclosures for over 20 years and have tried all the most popular methods. I wouldn't go so far as to say that an only glue joint is stronger than a glue and screw joint, I don't believe that for a minute. However I've been using glue with Brad nails for around a decade. Probably close to a dozen enclosures built that way and haven't had a failure yet. I'll definitely never go back to screws again, there's just no point IMHO. The glue is definitely the strongest part of the joint. The only way I could see it being any better would be to use biscuits in the joints. They would add more structural integrity than screws ever could and using them would also virtually eliminate the need for any mechanical fasteners like the brad nails. The only reason for the mechanical fasteners is to stabilize the joint while the glue sets up and even then I won't typically take the clamps off until the glue has had time to cure. That's just my .02 worth.

I made some kick pods that can actually be kicked, but I won't appreciate it if you do it intentionally during a demo. This is the vision with the little Beyma 8BR40 in place. Layed up some glass. Made some kick ass rings with some simple steel mesh grills. I'm using some threaded wood inserts and 8-32 button head cap screws to hold everything down. After some blood, sweat, and many many many tears I got some pods made. After a fresh coat of rubber undercoating I mounted the pods to the kick panels. The final install More pics can be seen here: http://s1005.photobucket.com/user/onebadmonte32/Suburban V3/Kick Pods/story Moar updates coming up.

Hey, I don't hate rap but I do hate bad rap. One other warning. You were discussing a 3 way before and the 80prs will only do a 2 way. Means without adding more processing you cannot do a midbass, midrange and tweeter. Btw, I also don't expect you want to be in my camp...but I came from yours but am just old now. I would never recommend you do what I do but don't want you to have the growing pains I did either.

All right first, don't let the octave thing confuse you. One octave up or down is simply a double or half the frequency. So an octave below 100Hz would be 50Hz and one above would be 200Hz... then 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, 12,800. The number doesnt actually matter, it's simply half or double. 1/3 octave is the point the human ear will pick up a change in pitch/tone. For our purposes today we will use the scale that will appear on your crossover and your Eq. I believe that head unit lets you select 1/3 octaves. Starting at the bottom 25, 31.5, 40, 50, 63, 80, 100, 125, 160, 200, 250, 500..... 1250, 1600, 2000, 2500, 3150, 4000, 5000, 6300, 8000, 10,000, 12,500..... you'll see the span between numbers gets larger the higher you go, but there is no more "information" in that large span then in the small span. There are basically three notes in each octave. So on to how this pertains to speaker selection. The tweeter being the most finicky so will start there. A tweeter with an FS of 1250Hz, Will not like to be crossed lower than 2500Hz. One with an FS of 1500Hz, won't like being crossed lower than 3.15K. One with an Fs of 1000Hz, Will dig low and play comfortably at 2000Hz. Now a true mid range speaker will have no problem playing up to either of those points, (and beyond) and still sound good . A speaker that is considered more of a midbass will also play up to those points, but will sound poopy. So if you were looking at a speaker that is more of a true midbass, you all want a tweeter that can dig low. Same with a subwoofer, it may be play up to 500Hz, but will some poopy anywhere after 80Hz. Now on the personal preferences and what I think you would like. Let's start at the subwoofer, I will assume Jay has his crossed at 80Hz, and five has his crossed and 50Hz. And I know I have mine crossed and 63Hz. The reason Jay has his crossed high is he is mating to mid range speaker, and wants the most "weight" he can from the subwoofer. There is less detail in chopped and screwed and rap music. The reason five would cross his at 50Hz is he is after more clarity and smoothness than weight, as jazz is very smooth and detailed. Next I will assume Jay has his mids crossed it 100Hz, and five has his crossed at 63Hz. Jays mid range speaker will be more head cracking, if it's not trying to play low notes that are covered by the subwoofer. We will Assume five has a mid that is considered both a midbass and mid range. One that plays smooth across the whole frequency band, and is not peaky in the mid range. Fives midbass/midrange will sound smoother than than subwoofer, and not play head cracking in the mid range. On to the tweeter. I will assume Jay has his crossed that 3.15K, and fives are crossed at 2K. Jay already has his mid range covered, and is more after ear blistering highs. Jay most likely cares less about soundstage and more about loudness. Again five probably cares more about clarity, detail and soundstage. Just like between the subwoofer and mid, fives tweeter will play more detailed and clear then the mid at the same frequencys. Also the tweeter is the part of the equation that can be moved around the car, to achieve a better soundstage. I would personally think you are probably leaning more towards Jay's camp. Five has ridiculously discerning ears, listens at a more moderate level than most and he hates rap. I fall in the middle because I listen to just about everything, from too short and easy-e, reba McEntire to Randy Travis, Otis redding to Elton John and slayer to lamb of god. One other Added note, a speaker will handle double power each octave higher it is crossed. Jays speakers will play lower, but handle more power to get loud crossed higher. Hope that helps. Let use know what you think.

They are always swamped. Beyond swamped in fact. Just a price you pay for buying US products.

Check this 12 out!!I can.e across this 75 lbs 12 in sub off a guy who has a nice collection.I got it for$300 !! Couldn't pass it up.He also has two Dreadnaut 15 in subs and an mmats amp I'm trying to get off him next but yeah the dude had never hooked this sub up!!He developed some health issues and has seizures all the time so he was never able to get a box and hook it up.So man I got real lucky I saw this sub on offer up and low and behold he lived like 5 blocks away from me!!! I don't know when I will use it cus I'm getting ready to install my two 18 in Zcons but I'm sure I will figure something out!!!

I have been ask a few very common questions, so I figured I would just post some of them up. If you have any questions post them up. I will answer them or find the answer for you. CCA is the maximum amperes that can be continuously removed from a battery for 30 seconds at 0°F before its voltage drops to unusable levels. A 550 CCA battery can supply 550 amperes for 30 seconds at 0°F. This was important back in the days when vehicles took a long time to start. Now if you put a charge to your starter for 30 seconds it would probably burn up, and it doesn't make any difference in car audio. CCA is the same test as above but at 32°F. AMP-HOUR RATING is a unit of measurement for battery capacity, obtained by multiplying a current flow in amperes by the time in hours of discharge. (Example: A battery which delivers 5 amperes for 20 hours delivers 5 amperes times 20 hours, or 100 ampere-hours.) So, unless you are running a system that has a low amperage pull for hours this rating is useless. Deep Cycle Batteries/Cranking Batteries: Flooded batteries use the Deep Cycle info a lot and with some battery companies and types of batteries you have to buy a separate battery for starting. With XS Power our batteries can be used as starting batteries or as secondary batteries. Our batteries are engineered with advanced technology that gives the batteries the ability to be used as a starting battery and as a deep cycle battery.

I came up with this the other day and posted it on SMD, I figured I should post it here too. Hopefully someone will find it useful. I'm sure most people here have come across the "12-16 sq in of port area per cube" guideline for slot ports and the "9-12 sq in per cube" for aeros. The problem with both of these is they only consider box volume. Both input power and tuning frequency, along with box volume, have a great effect on how much port area you need. This is why I've been recommending to people to NOT use those rules of thumb. Online you can find several websites (such as carstereo.com) that have port area calculators using the formulas developed by Dickason or Small. These have a similar problem of ignoring input power and these formulas aren't really relevant for our modern, high Xmax subs. The best solution is to use box simulation software (WinISD, BassBoxPro, etc) to determine how much port area you need based on the specifics of your system. However this is time consuming and not everyone has access to that software or has the desire to learn how to use it well. I wanted to come up with something is quick and easy to use, and should hopefully give a lot better results than the rules of thumb or the obsolete formulas. Here it is, to make this easy I'm using Google Docs: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1VREceNxz9YOcFlI8O_TG62-4O-l3Q2IjD5qsEkVVh28/edit?usp=sharing This is what it looks like: This will probably always be a work in progress, but so far I think it should work pretty well. I encourage everyone to use it and give me your feedback! Please note that due to the fact its a Google docs document multiple people can edit it at the same time. So if the numbers are changing on you while you use it, its someone else, just have patience.

Remember 40 is the new 25! Party like a Rockstar!

Welcome to the forum! Also very nice to meet you in person today during the test fit, which went well...no problems snapping them in or removing them. Feel comfortable enough now to smooth these out and paint.

Everyone I show your vids to says the same thing......... "Holly Duck!"

Thanks guys for the compliments!

Nice work!

Nice work! I enjoy my evil tweeters

Hope to get these done soon so I can put up a video of these for y'all!

Summer travel box: just a test fit for pictures will put together by the weekend, always wanted to try dual slot ports. 1.5c/f @32h for Zv.4 10".

I'm thinking tomorrow is going to be horsepower therapy day...the 'Stang is feeling neglected.

3 firsts, a new personal high on burp, 30s scores where all down, due to the windshield peacing out on us. Mic fell off, (we taped the fuck outta it first, trust me) 4 times. Anyway, no big deal. 1st in psyclone, 1st in super street 5plus, and again, the only ones to 599. So a first there. Its so much more brutal. We are very happy. The boards run wicked cool, make more power, much easier. Never seen the motor run as good as it did on the long runs. Before, it would almost kill the damn thing, but its all coming together now That ride home tho........

I watched it with the sound off....way better.

I have 122 lbs of muscle as well, but that is only because I have one big muscle between my legs that is about 110.

Well it seems my age is catching up, what I thought I could go in 4 hrs took me 7hrs! Removed 6" and 60" wide of dirt and put in 6" of 2B stone. Getting ready for the new sidewalk. Sometimes it was good to be raised as a slave and perfected for manual labor.

I know this is an older post, but thank you. I was looking for an accurate way to set my x-overs, nailed it!

I used glue and screws for a while, and switch to nails and glue, and have no issues, besides it's less work.

At this point in time Stereo Integrity discontinues the DS4 line and closes them out at a I can resist price. I pick one for just in case. Unfortunately storage space has become a preminum and I say eff it, I can cut another hole in the box and run two. So much for the no upgrades. Moar sub pics. Everything back out. Fingers crossed that I don't eff it up. Now its a box for two. All back in. The subs are dual 2 ohm coils. The amps put out 1k at 2ohms or 750w at 1ohm. So I take a hit in the power dept but gain in the cone area side. All in all its a wash. I need to start tuning.

Way to wake up a two year old thread guys.

And now for a little bottom end brought to you via a Stereo Integrity DS4 18. Freshly cut wood. I'm using a textured piece of abs plastic one the baffle for a little something extra. Box with a pair of Bazooka MGA1100h strapped (2KW) to the 18. Boom! Bazooka 4 channel, Arc PS8 and Stinger wire goodies. A little carpeting action. Finished product. Pics for those that gotta have moar! http://s1005.photobucket.com/user/onebadmonte32/Suburban V3/Sub Box/story Thanks for looking.

I guess a good question to ask at this point is what music do you predominately listen to? Reason I ask is you are going to get different suggestions as Jay listens to a lot of chopped and screwed and five listens to a lot of jazz an instrumental. So yeah Tell us what you listen to and speakers you have heard that you thought sounded loud/ good.

I would love to see safer packaging protection for y'all Evil midbass speakers, just received mine in the mail. Mine was just sliding around in the box, Evil box is partially beat up. Ill take having to clean up packaging peanuts rather than just paper placed in there, or at least more paper to keep the contents in place. Thanks

SSA Evil 18 would be intense.

What is the definition of safe sex in michigan? Placing signs on animals that kick....

The problem always is a box that performs well in comps sounds like crap. I had a really hard time grasping that when I started competing in 1989. Kept changing up my port and getting a better score while sounding worse. That forced me into the dark world of SQ.

I do want to point something else out. Let's look at the contest rules and see which ones were done: Rules: 1. Goto www.SoundSolutionsAudio.com - Done by both of us 2. Register on the forums and/or sign in - Done by both of us 3. Scroll down to the Modified Section - Done by both of us 4. Post a picture in 12" XCON Giveaway Thread - Done by both of us (Picture must show why or how much you want to win) 5. With the picture post why you want or need the XCON - Done by both of us 6. Share this video - NOT done by Sickblack Just want to state the facts. We can scrutinize the integrity of a portion of my photo's likes, but if the rules were not completely followed, it should be addressed.

Mathew and I have been working on bringing this site to launch for a little while and today is the day. The domain is mostly propogated over to the new host, so without further adue... Vehicle Specific Subwoofer Enclosures and more. They are still adding products on it as I type. SSA will also sell their great CNC cut, hand assembled enclsoures. Check them out! http://soundoffaudio.com/

A couple of this year's fawns. I shot this pictures in my back yard